5.4 Thermostat
#1
5.4 Thermostat
Hey Folks,
Anyone know of a cooler than stock thermostat? I'm not sure what the temp. of the stock stat is but I'm going to guess 197, I'm looking for a 180. Also not sure of the location, looks like a housing on the intake but I know that the stats on Cobra's are on the lower radiator hose, looks like there is a housing on the lower hose also.
Thanks,
Antony
Anyone know of a cooler than stock thermostat? I'm not sure what the temp. of the stock stat is but I'm going to guess 197, I'm looking for a 180. Also not sure of the location, looks like a housing on the intake but I know that the stats on Cobra's are on the lower radiator hose, looks like there is a housing on the lower hose also.
Thanks,
Antony
#2
Not on a "stock" motor
I wouldn't do it on a stock engine. The stock computer is setup for the higher temp so it knows when it's at the correct operating temp for adjusting air/fuel mixture, timing and such.
I've heard that if you get an aftermarket "chip", they can program it for a lower water temp for like a blower or turbo setup.
Not really sure on that whole deal, but I know it will mess up a stock setup.
I've heard that if you get an aftermarket "chip", they can program it for a lower water temp for like a blower or turbo setup.
Not really sure on that whole deal, but I know it will mess up a stock setup.
#3
Why would you want a cooler thermostat? The reality is that an engine becomes more efficient the hotter it runs. If anything, were it possible, a hotter thermostat would be better. At lower temps you risk formation of carbon deposits that won't come off, in addition to previous remarks about the ECU.
#6
Originally posted by FamilyRide
Ah forget that "you shouldn't go cooler" mess. Sure you can as long as you compensate for it. Simply add a supercharger first then go for that cooler thermostat
Ah forget that "you shouldn't go cooler" mess. Sure you can as long as you compensate for it. Simply add a supercharger first then go for that cooler thermostat
#7
Hey,
Ok I have to disagree with the replies, sorry. I will agree that the stock ECU is factory calibrated for the 192-197 stat, but the computer has the ability to adjust the air/fuel mixture at any given engine temperature. The statement "your engine will run like crap with a cooler stat" is just not true. Also, I am not trying to run my engine at 120, I stated that I would like a 180 stat.
Engines make best power at 190 is also not completely true. There are some good points about the lets say 190 degree operation, engine wear is less(like less than .001%, but never the less), the oil is warmer the by making it thinner, and combustion is hotter(this is a double edge sword here). Now if it were completely true that a warmer engine made more power then ppl would go round and round at the drag strip, which does not happen. To back this up my truck is roughly 2 tenths slower in a quarter-mile when at complete operating temp as compared to C on the gauge. Next if it were completely true that a hotter engine made more power than a cool engine then Winson Cup cars would not pre-heat there oil(see above for details) and chill there cooling systems(including there heads and intake) before a qualifing pass.
There is more good in running a engine slightly cooler on the street than there is bad. The biggest reason for the manufacturers of running "hotter" stats is it makes the cars more emission complient. The biggest reason for running a cooler stat is the fact that the cooler your heads are the less likely you are to detinate and when at the drag strip the roughly 20 degrees of engine temp makes for a proper cool down with less time.
Now I am not trying to convince anyone that they should run out to their trucks and put in a cooler stat. I simply asked if anyone knew anything about the stat(# numbers) and the setup.
Hmm, ok, I'll stop.
Cya,
Antony
Ok I have to disagree with the replies, sorry. I will agree that the stock ECU is factory calibrated for the 192-197 stat, but the computer has the ability to adjust the air/fuel mixture at any given engine temperature. The statement "your engine will run like crap with a cooler stat" is just not true. Also, I am not trying to run my engine at 120, I stated that I would like a 180 stat.
Engines make best power at 190 is also not completely true. There are some good points about the lets say 190 degree operation, engine wear is less(like less than .001%, but never the less), the oil is warmer the by making it thinner, and combustion is hotter(this is a double edge sword here). Now if it were completely true that a warmer engine made more power then ppl would go round and round at the drag strip, which does not happen. To back this up my truck is roughly 2 tenths slower in a quarter-mile when at complete operating temp as compared to C on the gauge. Next if it were completely true that a hotter engine made more power than a cool engine then Winson Cup cars would not pre-heat there oil(see above for details) and chill there cooling systems(including there heads and intake) before a qualifing pass.
There is more good in running a engine slightly cooler on the street than there is bad. The biggest reason for the manufacturers of running "hotter" stats is it makes the cars more emission complient. The biggest reason for running a cooler stat is the fact that the cooler your heads are the less likely you are to detinate and when at the drag strip the roughly 20 degrees of engine temp makes for a proper cool down with less time.
Now I am not trying to convince anyone that they should run out to their trucks and put in a cooler stat. I simply asked if anyone knew anything about the stat(# numbers) and the setup.
Hmm, ok, I'll stop.
Cya,
Antony
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#8
HI!... I totally disagree and I've been building engines for years. When at the strip, if I keep my truck around 190 degrees, it runs very, very consistant. If there is a major SPILL on the track and my truck cools way down to about 170 - 180, I run about 3 tenths slower always. Works the same way with my PRO STREET RANGER. I've seem my engines and others on the dyno running different stats and the 190 range always makes the most power on a N/A engine.
#10
Hey,
Frdtruck, hmm, put a sock in it!!!!! Neal, this surprises me, I know for a fact my truck slows 2tenths in the quarter between normal operating temp and C. Never have I seen a vehicle go slower after cooling down. Anyway, we agree to disagree, thats fine. I think you have posted that your building a 5.4 so if you would be so kind answer my question please. Is the stat in tha upper or lower radiator hose(housing)? I know its in the lower on the DOHC Cobra setup's.
Cya,
Antony
P.S. I have a 95GT that runs 10's@132+ with stock heads, stock cam, stock throttle body, 3.27 gear, AOD-E, hell this car still has the quad shocks and spare tire on board, just a T-60hifi turbo and a lil' knowledge about what I'm doing.
P.S.S No trans brake either!
Frdtruck, hmm, put a sock in it!!!!! Neal, this surprises me, I know for a fact my truck slows 2tenths in the quarter between normal operating temp and C. Never have I seen a vehicle go slower after cooling down. Anyway, we agree to disagree, thats fine. I think you have posted that your building a 5.4 so if you would be so kind answer my question please. Is the stat in tha upper or lower radiator hose(housing)? I know its in the lower on the DOHC Cobra setup's.
Cya,
Antony
P.S. I have a 95GT that runs 10's@132+ with stock heads, stock cam, stock throttle body, 3.27 gear, AOD-E, hell this car still has the quad shocks and spare tire on board, just a T-60hifi turbo and a lil' knowledge about what I'm doing.
P.S.S No trans brake either!
#11
In no way are we trying to insult your knowledge, but you might want to take into consideration that these people, including myself have tried this mod, and many others and found that they don't work......So before you tell us, the people that have tried it that we are incorrect, do some more research.
These trucks are a marvel of modern computer technology and have one of the most advanced engine management systems in the industry, so before you modify something you should check with those who know.
Just my $.050 worth.
P.S. worked very close with Ford and aftermarket on a few projects, and I know what works and does not work! And I don't wear socks, I live in California.
Thanks,
FORDTRK
These trucks are a marvel of modern computer technology and have one of the most advanced engine management systems in the industry, so before you modify something you should check with those who know.
Just my $.050 worth.
P.S. worked very close with Ford and aftermarket on a few projects, and I know what works and does not work! And I don't wear socks, I live in California.
Thanks,
FORDTRK
Last edited by FORDTRK; 10-10-2001 at 12:41 PM.
#12
There is some merit to both arguments.
When a system is cool, the advantage of the cooler intake charge may overcome the lower combustion chamber temp. My Chevelle posted best ETs at about half way to normal operating temp.
Neal, keep in mind that your chip is custom burned to maximize your A/F ratios, timing, etc. and these settings are most likely based on a normal operating temp.
Once the engine is heat soaked anyway, the cooler stat may just cause energy (heat) waste by trying to cool the engine which is trying to generate heat. The same Chevelle mentioned above ran worse at normal temps with a cooler stat.
As for the NASCAR types, also keep in mind the difference between qualification runs and the race. Iced down for qualifying, on the verge of boil over during a race.
As for the turbo 'Stang, obviously anything that would keep the temp down would help cool that intake charge. Got Boost?
When a system is cool, the advantage of the cooler intake charge may overcome the lower combustion chamber temp. My Chevelle posted best ETs at about half way to normal operating temp.
Neal, keep in mind that your chip is custom burned to maximize your A/F ratios, timing, etc. and these settings are most likely based on a normal operating temp.
Once the engine is heat soaked anyway, the cooler stat may just cause energy (heat) waste by trying to cool the engine which is trying to generate heat. The same Chevelle mentioned above ran worse at normal temps with a cooler stat.
As for the NASCAR types, also keep in mind the difference between qualification runs and the race. Iced down for qualifying, on the verge of boil over during a race.
As for the turbo 'Stang, obviously anything that would keep the temp down would help cool that intake charge. Got Boost?
#13
Your computer will run richer a/f mixturer because it thinks the engine is not up to temperature yet....I would not want this on a street engine unless I was looking for every hp I could get(why I dont know)...This will decrease mileage, accelerate wear(gas washes the rings and dilutes the engine oil)...
There are arguments to both sides...as far as efficentcy goes, the hotter the better to a point....
The payback is minimum for what you will lose....
There are a lot better mods then this...
There are arguments to both sides...as far as efficentcy goes, the hotter the better to a point....
The payback is minimum for what you will lose....
There are a lot better mods then this...
#14