JBA 4.6L headers
JBA 4.6L headers
#3
10-30-2001 | 09:54 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth
maybe i can help.........
well since nobody has posted much of anything...I just put headders on my 5.4, and the 4.6 and 5.4 are the same modular design...just diffrent displacement....I have noticed that at idle the truck rumbles deeper and sort of vibrates the truck...cause I can hear several new noises...lol. However the performance was a great gain, maybe not as much on yalls 4.6, but I'm sure It will be a great mod..my truck pulls so much harder till it slams into the fuel shut off at 106 hehe....and the headders that I installed were pacesetter....and If you do it yourself...get a can of liquid wrench, and set aside 6 hours with a friend....it Sucked...
maybe that helped...and If you get headders on there then tell me how it is....Good Luck
5.4
maybe that helped...and If you get headders on there then tell me how it is....Good Luck
5.4
#4
10-30-2001 | 10:01 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Bethlehem, GA
#6
10-30-2001 | 04:40 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL, USA
King James,I put the JBA headers on my 4.6 L several months ago. I got them from this site and had them jet coated. I had them installed for $300. Noticed no increase in sound (already had a flowmaster) but did notice a vibration when sitting at a light with my foot on the brake. Noticed a strong increase in power above 2500 RPM. It really pulls much stonger. Well worth the $.
WarEagle
#7
10-30-2001 | 04:56 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth
Are you ready to read, well print this one.
Well James the liquid wrench was applied 3 times before any studs and nuts were taken off, (for fear of breaking a stud in the aluminum head) and then after that the nuts and studs came right out no problems, I have 91k on the truck so I did not want to take any chances.....I would let it sit for 20 minutes and apply twice.....
looks are deciving on the headders. on the passenger side(this is a 5.4 mind u) the stock manifolds come out fairly easy.....however the headders consist of the tubes and the exhaust tubes are a pain to get around to install the new bolts, in order to get the # 4 cylinder bolt in I took out the starter nd moved it to get my hand in. And there are only 3 bolts for my starter. Then I would also suggest that u take out both fender well covers before doing anything.... ok well... that was it for the passenger side, lots or turn by turn by turn wrench work, and the stock manifold nuts were 13mm and I belive the studs were 5mm. ok. now for the drivers side....make sure that you take the egr tube off and disconnect the cats before unbolting the manifoldm, then use a 5/16 nutdriver to unscrew the oil dipstick, it just pulls out but turn as you pull out, and be gentle...be sure when u put it back after the headders are in that you put a little grease on the o-ring that is on the bottom of the dipstick....it goes in easier....now that the egr and the cats and the dipstick are off, u can unbolt the manifold. When u get the old manifold out take off the other fitting on the egr that is still on your manifold...apply some antiseiz (metal) to the fitting and then tighten into you headder...after that comes the fun stuff, it was hell trying to get the headder into the compartment, the steering column and the abs system were in the way, but it WILL go in, and mind you that the headders will get scratched....then next you need to tighten down the egr about 80% because when the headders are in it is really hard to retighten the egr...now ur ready to bolt it in...you may have to have a friend with you to hang from the cats to pull the collector down a little so it wont push against the headder.
um...ok lets see use some ultra copper on both sides of the headder gasket, it says on the back not for use with headders bla bla but.. #1 the ehaust on a naturally asperited motor do not reach 7oo degrees, #2 they use that stuff on formula 1 cars, and they have big turbos, the stuff works great...and it will help seal up the gasket, and if you use that stuff, I know u want to start it up but let it sit for about 10 hours at least, or you could blow a gasket out, (personal experince). I was unable to install one headder bolt on each side, I had my mechanic friend help me...
maybe that is too much typing, I know my hand hurts butr that is roughly everythiong that went on for that 6 hours...if you have any more detailed questions the email me or post it....
hope that I could help...........
5.4
looks are deciving on the headders. on the passenger side(this is a 5.4 mind u) the stock manifolds come out fairly easy.....however the headders consist of the tubes and the exhaust tubes are a pain to get around to install the new bolts, in order to get the # 4 cylinder bolt in I took out the starter nd moved it to get my hand in. And there are only 3 bolts for my starter. Then I would also suggest that u take out both fender well covers before doing anything.... ok well... that was it for the passenger side, lots or turn by turn by turn wrench work, and the stock manifold nuts were 13mm and I belive the studs were 5mm. ok. now for the drivers side....make sure that you take the egr tube off and disconnect the cats before unbolting the manifoldm, then use a 5/16 nutdriver to unscrew the oil dipstick, it just pulls out but turn as you pull out, and be gentle...be sure when u put it back after the headders are in that you put a little grease on the o-ring that is on the bottom of the dipstick....it goes in easier....now that the egr and the cats and the dipstick are off, u can unbolt the manifold. When u get the old manifold out take off the other fitting on the egr that is still on your manifold...apply some antiseiz (metal) to the fitting and then tighten into you headder...after that comes the fun stuff, it was hell trying to get the headder into the compartment, the steering column and the abs system were in the way, but it WILL go in, and mind you that the headders will get scratched....then next you need to tighten down the egr about 80% because when the headders are in it is really hard to retighten the egr...now ur ready to bolt it in...you may have to have a friend with you to hang from the cats to pull the collector down a little so it wont push against the headder.
um...ok lets see use some ultra copper on both sides of the headder gasket, it says on the back not for use with headders bla bla but.. #1 the ehaust on a naturally asperited motor do not reach 7oo degrees, #2 they use that stuff on formula 1 cars, and they have big turbos, the stuff works great...and it will help seal up the gasket, and if you use that stuff, I know u want to start it up but let it sit for about 10 hours at least, or you could blow a gasket out, (personal experince). I was unable to install one headder bolt on each side, I had my mechanic friend help me...
maybe that is too much typing, I know my hand hurts butr that is roughly everythiong that went on for that 6 hours...if you have any more detailed questions the email me or post it....
hope that I could help...........
5.4