Changed Antifreeze this weekend on my 98 5.4L F-250 Light Duty. Despite the warnings from others here, I used the Prestone extended life antifreeze after talking with my grandfather who has operated his own Radiator repair business for 50 years. He said it was fine and I trust him. The change was pretty simple, except for the block drain plug on the passenger side of the engine. The plug appeared to be just above the motor mount, which means that the motor would have to be lifted just to drain the passenger side of the block. The block drain plug on the driver side of the engine was easy to find and remove - Ford must have used some anti-seize at the factory because it came out much easier than I expected. Anyway, I flushed the block and radiator with water without removing the block drain plug on the passenger side. When I called a local dealer to ask how they get the plug out on the passenger side, the tech responded "What plugs?" They just drain the radiator, flush it, and refill it - leaving the majority of the old antifreeze in the block which won't drain from the radiator. And they charge $80. What a joke. Has anyone else run into this problem when changing the antifreeze? The passenger side of the block retained almost a gallon of water after I flushed it because I only had to add 16 quarts of antifreeze/water and the manual lists the capacity at just over 19 quarts.

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1998 Ford F-250 LD XLT, 5.4 4X4, Midnight Blue/Grey 2-tone, Line-X, Leather, Kenwood Excelon, Rockford 600a5, JL Audio 10", 285/75/R16's, Flowmaster 40 series cat-back with 3" pipe, Chrome tip, Superchip, K&N Filter, Clear turn signal lenses, Superwhite bulbs from Fred@Sportbikes.net(awesome bulbs for $40), Rancho RSX Shocks.

Coming Soon: factory fog lights.

 

You may have just voided your warranty. Anybody know for sure?

The way I hear it, the long-life orange stuff will eat up an engine if it wasn't designed for it in the first place.

 

The extended life antifreeze is acidic! It will eat your rubber elastomers causing them to leak! Get it out! You can only use this stuff in specially designed cooling systems!! Not in our trucks! If the factory was GREEN..then you MUST put GREEN back in. You will void any warranty that you may have.

The 2000 owners manual (I did see yours is a 98 model) SPECIFICALLY SAYS : "DO NOT USE EXTENDED LIFE ENGINE COOLANT (Orange in color).

You can not mix the orange with green either.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99




[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 06-05-2000).]

 

Jtray,

Was told exactly the same as Dustoff and Dennis posted. "Replace with what came with it only." Grandpop may not be up to date with new manufacturing techniques.

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Dunbarton "The Middle Aged Kid" '99 XLT SC SB 4x2 4.6 auto 3.55 ls The occasional Z-71 Eater! Wedgewood & Denim, SuperChipped, Airaid FIPK, HD electrical and cooling, power seat, Rhino Liner, Extang Classic tonneau cover, Mobil 1. Man, I got it all! (New Jersey)

 

I'm ready to change my antifreeze too, but I'm having trouble locating the block drain plugs and looking for some help. The picture in my Haynes manual doesn't help. Where exactly are they on a 4.6? Are they hex bolts, or square? Thanks for any info.

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98 F150 4x4 SC
4.6L, 5-sp, ORP, Moonlight Blue/Silver, 3.55 rear, K&N filter

 

Yes you need to go back to the original antifreeze type asap.

 

I have to agree with Dustoff on the extended drain antifreeze. There are some others out there too: Blue, Orange, Purple, etc, etc. All have different chemical characteristics that may react badly with the portions of your engine that each product is not rated for.

You must also be careful never to mix these types, as the SCA's will, in effect, cancel each other out.

Be careful out there.

Randy
www.prestone.com for more info.

 

I contacted Prestone and they said it was fine also. They specifically say that the extended life antifreeze is compatible with all vehicles with aluminum or brass radiators. The bottle says it can be mixed with all other types of antifreeze with no detrimental effects to the engine. However, for about $10 I can buy the regular Prestone and replace it - it's probably worth it just for the peace of mind. Also, I'd probably replace the extended life stuff in another 40,000 miles anyway, even if it is supposed to last longer. Thanks for the info. guys. For the person who was asking about the block drain plugs - I agree, the Haynes manual doesn't look anything like the drain plugs on my truck - the one that I was able to get to on the driver's side is an inverted allen wrench plug. It sat flush with the block and came out easily. The passenger side plug was inaccessable.

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1998 Ford F-250 LD XLT, 5.4 4X4, Midnight Blue/Grey 2-tone, Line-X, Leather, Kenwood Excelon, Rockford 600a5, JL Audio 10", 285/75/R16's, Flowmaster 40 series cat-back with 3" pipe, Chrome tip, Superchip, K&N Filter, Clear turn signal lenses, Superwhite bulbs from Fred@Sportbikes.net(awesome bulbs for $40), Rancho RSX Shocks.

Coming Soon: factory fog lights.

 

Thanks for the info jtray, that definitely helps.

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98 F150 4x4 SC
4.6L, 5-sp, ORP, Moonlight Blue/Silver, 3.55 rear, K&N filter

 

jtray, I looked at the Prestone site and they sure make it *sound* like it's safe for all engines. All I can say at this point is, if it's not green, Ford will void your warranty.

 

Another thing to consider:

These new 5.4 engines are NOT like the old engines where you can just drain, flush, ad refill! My understanding is that there are many little water-ways around the heads and block and if you get air trapped in some of these spots you will get a HOT-SPOT! This could lead to major engine damage!!!

That Ford dealer that says they simply drain, flush and fill might not know what they are doing!

I understand that you ABSOLUTELY MUST use a flushing system that pumps out the old stuff while re-filling with new. This will keep you from getting ANY air into the system...

THis is NOT just my opinion this is fact and stated by TOP mechanics!

Best thing is to take it to a place that knows what their doing... Once a year! You'll never have a problem!



[This message has been edited by Rand (edited 06-08-2000).]

 

Another benefit to having someone do it for you is assuring proper disposal of the old fluid. It is a toxic Hazardous Waste. But it can be recycled. Dealer's are regulated by the EPA and must recycle or dispose of it properly. Not that some shops don't violate these laws but as a DIY'er, finding someone to take it is often very difficult.

 

The shop manual states that about 80% of cooland capacity can be drained with the engine in the vehicle. You open the rad drain**** and the cylinde block drain plug. Refilling is via the Radiator coolant recovery resevoir. Fill the resevoir replace the cap move the temp **** to hot and start engine. Run engine till it reaches operating temp. Add coolant mix to resevoir so level is between marks. Shut off engine and let cool down. Repeat till level in resevoir is ok.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

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00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 4.6 w/5spd 3.55LSD
Warn XD9000i, skid plates, Draw tite class III,
Rancho RSX Reflex shocks,
Borla Cat Back
Modified Air Cleaner Outlet Tube
and air box, K&N air filter,
Superchips

 

Rand,
I have a question or two that you can pose to your "top mechanic." How does the factory get the air out of the engine when they fill the cooling system the first time? Are there plugs at the top of all those air pockets in the engine that you can remove to bleed the air off? I don't see anything like that on my truck. I doubt very seriously they turn the truck upside down to get the air out. I can't see how they could accomplish this. I'm not saying it's impossible or that they don't do it some how. I'm just saying I would really like to know how this is done. Question EVERYTHING you hear and most of what you see!

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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, Airaid, 80/100w German head lamps. Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount. Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Torsion bars cranked up 2 turns. Needs one more door and a lot more power. I think I need to talk to Mr. Whipple.

 

Rand,

I think the dealer or whoever just wants your business... air pockets? not sure about that one. Air should bleed out while system is open this is not like a ac system where everything is sealed shut. When you run the engine coolant goes into all the nooks and crannies.......

the bubba

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98 F250 LD 5.4 dual exhaust, K&N, Big tires