I have been running Mobil 1 Try Synthetic 5w30 since since the second oil change on my truck, The reason I switched to synthetic is that Ford requires 5w30 in my engine, and I didn't feel comfortable with a dino oil that light in my engine while towing in the summer heat, and also the fact that synthetic is superior to the dino oils. Now I know that the cold weight is the first number and the hot weight is the second number witch is the same in both the 0w30 and 5w30. I want to switch to the 0w30 on the next oil change witch is in about 300 miles, but there I am having mixed feelings about going with the 0w30 for some reason. I need some opinions on what you guys and gals think, though I am probably going to go with the 0w30.

This is what spends the most time behind the truck, especially in the summer on the interstate at an average of 70mph or better witht the OD off.

Last time I weighed it, GCVWR was 13,060, that has probably increased by about 300 pounds since we upgraded the sleeping quarters.

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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch,Ford Custom Molded Splash Guards, Muth Signal Mirrors, SUPERCHIPS Performance Chip, Line-X Bedliner, STROBES!!and Y pipe with duals.

[This message has been edited by LHM (edited 01-31-2001).]

[This message has been edited by LHM (edited 01-31-2001).]

 

LHM-

I tow a two-horse slant with tack and dressing room too and loaded with equines, feed and tack... and maybe a beer or two... I'm right around 14k even.

I've also only put 5w30 Mobil 1 in, and wonder, since I'm in a really hot climate, if I oughta go back to 10w30. But like the book sez: Ford specs 5w30, so that's what I use.

I had an interesting conversation with my service rep one time regarding the whole 10w vs 5w thing. His spin was that Ford wants the oil to get up to the top of the engine faster at startup so that's why they spec 5w. It makes sense, although it probably doesn't answer your question very well. Good luck with this and I'll check back to see what others have to say.

R

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2000 F-150 Lariat SB Supercab 4x4 Off-Road Pkg, Tow Pkg. 5.4L, 3.55 LS rear, Bright Red over Silver, Med. Graphite Guts, Rear Slider, K&N Filter, Cabin Filtration System, Superchip, Lund Interceptor Deflector, Mobil 1.

 

That is why I run it too, because that is what ford specifies, but I would feel alot better with a 40wt in there, but I also want it to get flowing as quickly as possible which is why I was thinking of switching to the 0w, guess I should have said that that GCVWR included the 2 horses as well , with the divider out it will hold three, though I never have had to carry 3 before, and probably won't because the horse that is unlucky enough to be put in the middle will catch hell.

LHM

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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch,Ford Custom Molded Splash Guards, Muth Signal Mirrors, SUPERCHIPS Performance Chip, Line-X Bedliner, STROBES!!and Y pipe with duals.

 

My partner hauls a 4-horse but he's also driving an F-250 with the V-10. He only uses 5w30 as well and never worries about it. I hear you about the middle stall... my horse trailers bad anyway and likes to kick when I stop. Scares the crap out of anybody stopped next to me! How do you like the Line-X? Would you put it on the trailer floor as well? I've seen it done before.

R

 

Love the Line-X Reavis, if it didn't cost so much I might consider it for the trailer, but for 375 on the truck I would be scared to ask what it would cost to do the trailer. I just have some thick rubber mats on the floor and the walls are lined with plywood, and rubber mats in the places where they are likely to kick. We are required to have wood shavings in the trailer by law so the shavings make the slick rubber mats non-skid

LHM



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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch,Ford Custom Molded Splash Guards, Muth Signal Mirrors, SUPERCHIPS Performance Chip, Line-X Bedliner, STROBES!!and Y pipe with duals.

 

I've been using Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 since 1K miles on my truck. I live and drive in Hawaii where the average daily temp is 85F (all year ). Lots of stop and go traffic but no problems.

I've been using Amsoil products since '89 and I won't use anything else. I'm getting ready to install a Baumann shift kit and B&M trans pan, along with Amsoil ATF.

LHM, how does your 5.4L handle towing your trailer?



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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 Lariat (Black/Silver)
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com

 

It looks from your post that you live in North Carolina. If so, you will not derive any benefit from 0W30. This formulation is for extreme cold flow characteristics; as in -20 degrees. You could use 10W30 in your part of the country and be better off. This is because it takes polymers to raise the viscosity to 30W when hot. The thinner the initial oil, the more polymers it takes to get to 30W. Polymers break down and wear out. You need heat protection more than you need cold flow. I'd go with 10W30 if I were you. Ford's new recommendation of 5W20 saves infinitesimal amounts of fuel because it is thinner when hot. Less friction but also less "shear" resistance if you work your motor hard.

 

In regards to oil, I was wondering if you guys ever heard of royal purple and what is your standing on it.

 

gah, the 5.4 tows wonderfully for what it is, after all it is only 330 cubic inches and has monster torgue for it's size. Even before the chip, it could keep that rig moving meaning getting going and maintaining speed and never go past 3K RPM. Unless I really get in it, most shifts are around 2500 to 2700 rpm. The guys that I usually run with are pro chevy and pro dodge, though I am partial to ford, the chevies and dodges do good also. The only other Ford that is in my "group" is a 2000 Power Stroke Diesel. The 5.4 does extremely well, and I don't have any doubt that it can handle more. I really like the fact that I can tow all day long very comfortably and never have to go over 3K rpm. The only exception to this is when we go to the mountains and on some of those long interstate hills, the converter will unlock and on one occasion I had it drop back to 2nd gear, this happend soon after I had gotten the truck and was a result of me not knowing the truck that well yet. I think it went back to second at like 65mph and then increased to about 73 going up hill before I backed off of it enough for it to relax. But to answer the question, it does damn good, it can tow under 3K rpm or play all the way up to 5200rpm when bob tailing.

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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch,Ford Custom Molded Splash Guards, Muth Signal Mirrors, SUPERCHIPS Performance Chip, Line-X Bedliner, STROBES!!and Y pipe with duals.

 

acadian bob, that makes alot of sense, though because ford recommends 5w30, I am gonna stick with that, I would just not feel comfortable with 10w30, since it is synthetic, do you think I can get away with it, it is changed religiously at 3,000 miles sometimes a few hundred miles before. I would think that chaging it on schedule at 3000 miles would ensure that the polymers don't wear out? What are your thoughts on this? Looks like I am gonna stick with the 5w, it is do for a change soon. I could not imagine putting the 5w20, I am uneasy enough about the 30wt, I wonder how it is gonna effect the V-8 and V-10 superduties who probably tow heavier loads more often?

 

I use Amsoil 0w30 Year Round in El Paso TX

I can't believe there is a hotter place on earth

anyway, 0w30 protects your engine better in both hot and cold than does a conventional 10w30!!

So I figure that I get the best of both worlds.
http://www.mobil1.com/


Race-proven technology designed for passenger car performance. Provides
unsurpassed fuel efficiency and up to twice the wear protection provided by
popular conventional and synthetic motor oils. Recommended for use in all
vehicles requiring 5W-30 or 10W-30 motor oils
High Temperature Protection

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil protects in high temperatures better than do the high-viscosity
conventional and synthetic oils tested (see chart). Even after extended service in the engine, Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30
Motor Oil maintains its ability to protect in high temperatures.
http://amsoil.com/products/tso.html

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[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 02-01-2001).]

 

Actually the faster the oil flows the quick it removes heat from critical parts.

Also a faster flowing oil will give better hydrodynamic lubrication that one that is thick and slow flowing.


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So, msparks you are saying that I will be better with the Ow for cold start up and that it will still protect when it is hot especially when towing? It is obvious that the Ow will give superior protection on start up, I was just worried about after it warms up.

 

Heavier weight oil makes your engine work harder. DON'T USE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Mark


sundayniagara@hotmail.com

 

Yes I am saying that you will be better protected in Hot weather than if you were to use a 10w30 conventional.

Also as far as breaking down prematurly, Amsoil recommends a change interval of 35,000 miles or 1 year. I don't think they would do this if there were a chance of Polymer breakdown.


One other plus is that you will probably free a a little horsepower by putting a 0w30.

From what I have ready(Amsoil Literature) about 2 hp has been average. I'm sure the same with mobil1

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