Gutting MAF sensor and Porting TB
#1
Gutting MAF sensor and Porting TB
I found a tech article on corral.net that suggested removing the the bar underneath the sampling tube on a stock MAF sensor. I would like other opinions before taking a Dremel to a $300 piece of electronics.
I would also like to find out exactly how TB porting is performed and if I will notice any difference from doing either mod.
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97 F-150 4.6 4x4
K&N Fipk
Dual Flowmaster 50
Superchip
32" BFG's
Toyota stuck to bumper
I would also like to find out exactly how TB porting is performed and if I will notice any difference from doing either mod.
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97 F-150 4.6 4x4
K&N Fipk
Dual Flowmaster 50
Superchip
32" BFG's
Toyota stuck to bumper
#2
#3
I Tow Chevy's:
Some info on screwing with the mass air flow. I did that very thing on my 97 4x4 S/C 4.6L. I did it per the instructions on Corral.net. It seemed to help at freeway speeds (strictly seat of the pants) but off the line the truck immediately developed a problem. It seemed to take a huge *gasp,* hesitate severely, and then go. I could not live with this and ended up spending $150 bucks on a new MAF from my local Ford dealership. I never got a check engine light or anything but that hesitation off the line was awful. Just my experience for whatever it's worth.
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2000 F-150 Lariat S/C 4x4 ORP 5.4L Bright Red/gold
Some info on screwing with the mass air flow. I did that very thing on my 97 4x4 S/C 4.6L. I did it per the instructions on Corral.net. It seemed to help at freeway speeds (strictly seat of the pants) but off the line the truck immediately developed a problem. It seemed to take a huge *gasp,* hesitate severely, and then go. I could not live with this and ended up spending $150 bucks on a new MAF from my local Ford dealership. I never got a check engine light or anything but that hesitation off the line was awful. Just my experience for whatever it's worth.
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2000 F-150 Lariat S/C 4x4 ORP 5.4L Bright Red/gold
#4
Don't do it you'll be sorry you did. I did it to my 98 4.2l and what a mess I made of that engine check engin light came on right away and it ran like sh!#. cost me $250 dollars from dealer to replace. What a waste.
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Mods:
Smitty Built:Brush guard,Nerf Bars
Jacobs Ignition
Fabtech leveling kit
Pro comp extra travel shocks fr+ba
Micky Thompson Mtx 185/75r16
hypertech super chip
Rancho 2" blocks+add a leaf
Moble 1 synthetic 0w30 oil
Red line atf and rear end lube
performance accessories 3" body lift+gap guards
Pioneer p2000 and kenwood 100x4 amp, planet audio 5x6 fr 6x9 in rear
Machanical water and oil guages+tach
bed liner, Swiss Cap
80/100w superblue headlamps
4.10 rear end gears
Hellwig rear antisway bar
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Mods:
Smitty Built:Brush guard,Nerf Bars
Jacobs Ignition
Fabtech leveling kit
Pro comp extra travel shocks fr+ba
Micky Thompson Mtx 185/75r16
hypertech super chip
Rancho 2" blocks+add a leaf
Moble 1 synthetic 0w30 oil
Red line atf and rear end lube
performance accessories 3" body lift+gap guards
Pioneer p2000 and kenwood 100x4 amp, planet audio 5x6 fr 6x9 in rear
Machanical water and oil guages+tach
bed liner, Swiss Cap
80/100w superblue headlamps
4.10 rear end gears
Hellwig rear antisway bar
#5
I too did this to my mustang and my F150. It worked well until I put a supercharger on the truck. When I did that I had to go to the Ford garage and pick up a new one. As for the mustang, it seemed to work ok, but that car is gone and I put an aftermarket one on my new one.
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/