Hey Neal, my truck weighs in at 3900lbs including me. That Drag Math program would be cool to have. Is there a site that you can download it from? A little less then a half a second seems kind of low for a drop of 3500ft in altitude. I'll have to look into getting one of those CAL-TRAC bars. What did a set of those run ya?

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~'98 F-150 XLT Reg. Cab Flareside 4x4, Black, 5.4L, 3.55LS, tow package, 285/75/r16 Mud Terrain BFG's,K&N,WMS Velocity Tube, GTS headlight covers, Alpine changer w/FM mod, Clifford alarm system w/keyless entry & starter disable // Future considerations: Bed mat, tonneau cover, 4" suspension lift or 3" body lift.

~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Hydraulic Crane Cam, 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back, mounted on Centerline Auto Drag Lite II rims
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3500ft altitude 14.69secs @ 92mph

~2000 Suzuki RM125 Dirt Bike
-no need for any modifications! (yet)

~2001 Traxxas T-Maxx Nitro Monster Truck
Modifications: -180degree carb flip w/return spring installed

 

I've never run at the track before, but would be interested to do so. We have a local track here so I should be able to gain access.
My truck is completely stock, with the exception of Smittybilt step bars and a bugshield. Are there any techniques to use for driving? I'm interested to see what kind of times the truck will pull now, before I do any real mods.
Since I've only been at a drag strip once, How do they work when you want to run your own vehicle? Is there any special terminology I should know?


------------------
2001 F150 XLT Supercab Flareside "Sport"
Black
5.4
Smittybilt step bars


[This message has been edited by deep6blue (edited 04-30-2001).]

 

Hey fordification thanks for the tips! I post my results here when I get them. Will I have to dial in a time? If so, does a 16.8 sound right for stock. From these post that seems about right...

------------------
2001 F150 XLT Supercab Flareside "Sport"
Black
5.4
Smittybilt step bars

 

This site is a good one to go to for info if you are new to this sport. Give it a try! Go to www.staginglight.com

 

And Raoul, be sure to deploy at the lights that shows your time and not at the vertical multi-colored ones.

deep6blue, you only need a dial-in if your at a point race event, in which you've already had 3 trial runs, and your ready to start eliminations. Are track has a Secret Street event every friday night that are all heads up racing (first to the finish), rather then brackets like a points race.

 

My chute deploys automatically after distance traveled. Unfortuntely, I had it set for a 1/8th track.

Oh, and the chute goes on the back. The first time I used it, I never knew whether I had won or lost and just had to guess on where to turn off.

 

deep6blue, I've got a few helpful tips for you take make it a little easier. A couple things that you should bring along is:
1)helmet-some drag strips do have spare helmets, but alot do not. A bicycle helmet will safice, it has to be snell95 or better safety rating.
2)shoe polish-the tech guys may just give you a number and right it on your window for you, so it's not so important.

Obviously a valid driver's license, registration and insurance is a must, all though your vehicle really isn't insured if any accident occurs. As for terminology, the water box is simply the area 20-30ft before the starting line where you do your burn out. I recommend for stock tired vehicles that you drive around this and do a dry burn out instead, mainly because water tends to sit in the tread and drip onto the ground under your tires when your staging. As for staging (pulling up to the line), watch for the sensor box just in front of the christmas tree (starting lights), otherwise you'll drive right by (I did). The two top light are your pre-stage and stage lights. As you get closer, each one will be triggered. Once you trigger the stage light, stop, or you'll deep stage. You can stall the engine to maybe around 1500 to 2000rpm by apply the brake and the throttle, to get a better launch, but it's optional. Once your aponent also stage, 3 amber lights will light up one after another (unless your on a pro tree). Just after the 3rd amber and just before the green light flashes, hit the gas! Some people manually shift automatics to reach redline limit, but again optional. Well, there you go man! Next class, we'll get into line locks, drag slicks and trans brakes!

------------------
~'98 F-150 XLT Reg. Cab Flareside 4x4, Black, 5.4L, 3.55LS, tow package, 285/75/r16 Mud Terrain BFG's,K&N,WMS Velocity Tube, GTS headlight covers, Alpine changer w/FM mod, Clifford alarm system w/keyless entry & starter disable // Future considerations: Bed mat, tonneau cover, 4" suspension lift or 3" body lift.

~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Hydraulic Crane Cam, 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back, mounted on Centerline Auto Drag Lite II rims
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3500ft altitude 14.69secs @ 92mph

~2000 Suzuki RM125 Dirt Bike
-no need for any modifications! (yet)

~2001 Traxxas T-Maxx Nitro Monster Truck
Modifications: -180degree carb flip w/return spring installed

 

...and if you use a chute, don't deploy until the end of the run. I think this cost me several seconds on my time.

------------------
1999 Ford F150 Lariat RegCab 2WD shortbed 5.4L 3.55LS Towpkg Line-X
15.714@85.21