The stock stats are 192 for F150 and 180 for the lightnings. I do believe this goes for all engine sizes.

The performance products kit does come with 2 seperate fans (16" Derails), 2 seperate controllers with 2 dry type sensors that are pushed between the radiator fins just in front of where the water comes into the radiator.

This was one of the reasons I went with this kit. I like knowing that if one fan or controller takes a crap, I have the other to limp home on.

Also, the instructions that I received from Mike T. had me connect a wire from the controllers to a switched ignition source to prevent the fans comming on after I shut off my truck.(No Dead Battery).

Oh Yeah, I have the 4.6

Update.........The best H.P. is seen when the coolant temps are between 200-210 in our trucks.

Rocks

 

Can't say for sure for the trucks, but the mod engine Mustangs have a 2 speed electric fan that is designed to turn on low anytime the ECT reads 220 degrees, and shut off when it reaches 200 degrees. If the fan is on low, and the A/C is turned on, the high fan kicks on until the A/C is turned off.

Take care,
~Chris

 

I have not seen another posting on the F150s ( sorry but 220* seems a tade warm to me ) so I guess this is it.

On at 202*, which would put the 2nd fan on a PPI kit at 212*
The FAL kit 60% on at 202*, the fans step up to 100% run at 212*

Any one else for a temp ?

If not I am setting mine at these and see what happens.

This should put the HEC inst. temp at on at 94* for the first stage.
Second stage 100*. I have yet to have my fans runs at 100% with the stage 1 setting at 92*.

Thanks to all that contributed to this posting to date. All good info

 

I think that 220 is a tad warm also. My temp. seems to always hang between 200- 205, after the engine has a chance to warm up.

Now SSCULLY, I did not go for the "other" special tool you liked.
I went for the auto tap. I am hoping to get more accurate temps from this once I receive it.


Rocks

 

I have mine set at 200*@60%. I did change one thing. I mounted my fan controller on the top corner of the electric fan shroud as the instructions stated. After a long drive, I noticed the controller was hot as h*ll and worried about it failing one of these days. So I got some 1/2" rubber spacers and mounted it between the shroud and controller,so it's raised alittle. It made a big difference. Unfortuntately, I cut my wires as short as possible when I installed the fan, so I didn't fell like extending a bunch of wires and moving the controller somewhere else. Just an idea to think about.

 

I have the VSC mounted on the the sheetmetal behind the pass headlight.
I saw one post from a L member where he toasted his VSC when it was mounted to the Fan housing. When FAL sent his replacement VSC, they told him to mount it behind the headlight.

Just this past week, EasterIsland toasted his VSC on his 270 kit. His 250 kit that he put back on has him mount the VSC on the sheetmetal behind the headlight. I don't know for sure what they told him to do with the new VSC, but he was thinking on putting it the same place as the 250 kit location.

So I'll put another 5* on it tonight.

Thanks for al the replies and help, looks like we have a winner...so far that is

 

SSCULLY,
Why put another 5 degrees on it? In your previous post you seemed to be running right at the 200 degrees mark.

Rocks

 

I am on at ~ 196* and it cycles between 196-198*, where the concensus is that the best HP is between 200 and 210, and ChiDiver seems to have his temp run 204 to 206 range on a fairly consistant basis with the normal clutched fan, and an ASP pulley

I don't know if I have ever see it hit 205 that I can recall and that is even running in 104* heat index.

I have not raised is from the current range of 196 to maybe 200*, where I thought it would be better if I matched the 200 to 205 range.
My top range seems to be your starting range for the cycle on the FAL fans.

That is why I was going to take it up to ~ 201* or so.

Sorry if I typed wrong, but I never got to bumping it to 201 -202 for the 60% on range.

 

Oh, now I see what your saying.

When I talk about my truck being at 200-205 I am talking about where the coolant temp stays. My fans are setting at 190 and 200 turn on temps. Remember, I am also running a 180 stat.

I am thinking that the fan on temps should be set where they keep it running around 200-205 coolant temp., what ever that setting is from truck to truck. It may be different for some trucks than others.


Rocks

 

Good point, I am going to use my AutoTap software and get it set to turn on at 202 I think ( 192* stat, plus 10* that PPI suggests ) and see what happens. I know I busted your hump about the PPI directions, but the FAL directions were for crap to be totally honest.

So the PPI kit seems to run one fan consistantly, and somtimes the second ?

Right now, I do have about a 4* lower turn on temp, by my fans run at 60% and do cycle on and off ( even in those 104* heat index days of testing the intake temp ). I have yet to find a HEC inst or Autotap reading where the fans would run at 100%.
MAybe after I crank up the temp to 200 to 202 ???

 

The PPI kit cycles the first fan on at what ever you set it for. And the second fan comes on at what ever you set for after that. I guess you could cycle them on at any temp you choose.

Also the first fan cycles on with the A/C cluctch for cooling if needed.

I also have the fans wired to a switched ignition source that keeps them from cycling on when the ignition is not turned on.


After reading the posts by FAL users, I do believe the PPP fans had better instructions with them. Screw driver and all. Putting a screw driver between 2 bolts for leverage works and keeps ya from having to buy some special tool for the job.


Rocks

 

I mounted the control unit on the "shelf" near the battery, in the area of the solenoids. I also have the cover that they stopped putting on the trucks, so you can't see it, and it remains protected.

 

Oh sweet idea, I never thought of putting it over there.
Damn, now I might have to rewire mine again.

Got a spool of 12 and 14 awg stranded in the 105* C insulation, both pos and neg in a common 105* C covering.
Good I love the internet, and I have gotten to know my UPS driver really well these past few years, I think he is back from Sturgis on Tue or Wed

 

What are you guys using to measure the temps to set your fans at?

What are you guys using to measure the temps to gauge and set your electric fans at?

I am seeing the following ways to measure the engine temps.

1) HEC which is the signal at the #1 cylinder.

2) A mechanical water temp gauge (The location I used is the heater core hose coming off the intake).

3) A scan tool like AutoTap (Does this method determine water temp by way of the factor temp sensor in the intake manifold?)

So, when we talk normal operating temps what are we talking water temp or HEC temp at #1 cylinder.

Just trying to compare apples to apples here.

Thanks to all for their posts on this subject.

 

I use an AutoXRay scanner for my readings.