I went out and bought me one of those butterball turkeys. They come with a really neat pop up thermometer that works great for this purpose. It's a little tough cutting it out of the bird, but with a little practice, you can slice it out just right.


Rocks

 

I am using AutoTap.

Oddly enough, when I compared the HEC instr. hack with AutoTap they were the same.

Guess the output from the ODBII port is the same as what is used in the HEC DTM.

I do not know if this is specific to AutoTap or all log software that connects via the ODBII port.

As for Rocks idea...watch him, he uses screwdrivers for all sorts of suff, so if he suggests something.....your knuckles might get skined

I would use the obvious joke on the Turkey pop up thermometer, but this is a family show :P ( relating to the Muffler thread, and why you want to change the Super truck out )

 

SSCULLY,

Thanks for the useful info it appears that the AutoTap is using the same probe as the HEC. So, when you talk temps you are actually referring to the HEC. In my observations the HEC is hotter than the actual water temp via my manual temp gauge. However, my manual temp gauge is another totally different subject because it appears my mechanical temp gauge is off by 10 degrees. I was looking at moving the probe to the plug in the intake manifold above the #1 cylinder to get a more accurate reading.


As for Rocks comments what is there to say?

 

You're pretty much correct BigRed2. I used the HEC and AutoXRay and both show the same reading. I also moved the controller again for the second time. Now it's mounted to the side of the washer fluid tank.

Now for some bad news. Just filled up on gas and it looks like I got an improvement of .3-.4 mpg's. I did disconnect the battery when installing the fan, so I know the computer is relearning. I just hope I get the 1-2 mpg's like eveyone else gets. I sure my lead foot is a factor as well.

 

BigRed2,

No problem I hope it helps.

Jupiterak,

I have to check a few more tanks, I think I am not keeping my foot out of it as of late, due to the quicker rev'ing of the engine.

As for Rocks, he comes up with some good ideas at times..other times..Well ??...

 

SSCULLY,

I can't afford all those fancy tools you get to buy. I have to spend all my money buying cars for my kids...LOL.

Rocks

 

That damn turkey cost what my pulley holder did
Buy the turkey, and skin the knuckles

I have not had a chance to jerk your chain the past few posts, so this time you made it easy for me
It's as if I started to toss you a right hook, and you stuck your chin out, and leaned to your left a bit

 

The problem is that your not thinking effeciently. After your done using the turkey thermometer, you get to eat the turkey.
The pulley remover just sits in that spotless clean garage of yours.

Rocks

 

Big Red,

If you install the Cobra Water pump you will not increase the water circulation. I believe it is designed to be used in the Cobra and to not cavitate the water at high rpm. In the range the truck runs it is no more efficient than the stock pump.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Ok, that makes perfect sense. But you till have to buy band aids for your knuckles. <g>

Someone in Chicago might be doing an electric fan, and want to borrow it, so at least I got that going for me.

Also dad always said, don't eat anything larger then your head, and you'll be alright. So don't eat the whole turkey...

 

JMC,

For the eighty bucks or so the Cobra water pump is definitely on my radar screen. I think it will wait until next summer since we are almost at the end of the hot season up here. I don’t have the towing group package so I have the thinner radiator and added flow would only help.

The only issues I have to date is with the A/C on in stop and go traffic, the A/C blows hot the compressor is cycling like crazy and then the water temp starts to rise. I think I am going to have the A/C system checked to verify it’s OK. I noticed last night there is a cap on top of a T for one of the tubes coming off the condenser line. I twisted the cap and off it came, that seemed extremely loose to me. I don’t know if there is refrigerant in the lines that go to the condenser but it would appear it would have easily leaked out with the cap being so loose.

 

BigRed2,

Do you have underdrive pulleys ?

I thought that was for the under drive croud with the corbra water pump. The L members always seem to have lighter lower pulleys on, and larger s/c pulleys so this is something they do.

The design of the impeller is changed to help with coolant movement,
jstang has one on his setup..so maybe asking him is the best thing.

As for the non towing rad, it is the same as I have. Ford shut off the towe package fix before I got the truck.
So I have the 1" thick rad as well, but I have the additional trans cooler.
I don't what the milliage is, but I would almost think that a 99 should still be ok for the coolant ?? Just taking a swag at it.
for 100* C is only 212* F and this is in the good range for HP and poultion running. Don't know if it tops out above this by much, but enev though it sound shot, that is the range for the truck ( I have the same old school problem of WTF 215* you got to be kidding me ).
jstang has his 60% run temp at 175-180*F, so maybe if you nudge down your turn on temp this might help.
FAL says to set the turn on ( 60% run speed ) when hot water gets to the Rad ( ~192* ), mine I origionally had at ~ 196* so there abouts and never had a problem with them.
PPI install says to set the first fan to turn on at 202* ( stat + 10* ).
The other is if the trans does not have a clean filter in it, it could not be cooling effectivly causing masive amounts of heat to go to the rad ?? That is just a guess, without the additional trans cooler and moving slow with a trans filter that needs to be changed maybe this is adding to the heat in the rad, and causing the temps to be driven up ? I got a filter with only 14K miles on it, and a trans cooler as a comparision.

The T is should have had a schrader (sp?) valve under it, for evacuating the system, and recharging it, so unless the valve is broken the loose cap should not matter, if you are talking about what I think you are.

Let me know if you think I'm all wet....

 

SSCULLY,

I do have the pulleys installed and run at a consistent temp in the 194 – 200 degree range, except when I run the A/C in stop and go traffic and then she cooks. The compressor starts cycling on and off and then blows hot air through the vents, then the temp starts to climb. When it gets above 220 that’s when I shut off the AC and the temps drop back down to 194 –200. If I where to leave the AC on in this situation it would overheat big time. So, far I seem to be the only one with electric fans and a problem with the AC.

 

Missed those temps, I only saw the normal" operating ragne ones postd on page 1 or 2.

Holy crap ! 220*. Yea that's a small problem.

You do know we still have about 60 days more of this heat around here might want to get the pump now.

So with the electric fans on the underdrive pulley, there you go.
Maybe this is the problem with the stock water pump then with the other mods. I have not done any research on the underdrives, so I cannto say either way.
ChiDiver has the underdrives, but no electric fans.

Sorry if all this info is in your sig, I have them turned off so I don't get those 600x800 pics that some post with ever damn reply.

 

I have the ASP underdrive pulleys and the TT package with corrected 2.2" radiator. 2001 5.4/3.55 SCab. My temps never went over 210* and stayed mostly 204* to 208* dragging a 5000# boat to the lake in 97* weather with AC on full blast. Temps measured on AutoXRay scanner.

My truck has 14,000 miles on it and the radiator about half of that. Low mileage may make a difference as I don't see the cooling system becoming more efficient with age.

One side question I have is if the trailer tow fan/fan clutch is the same as the non TT.

I have not heard the fan clutch kick in since the pulleys, and it's certainly been warm enough outside at times for that. Perhaps the slower fan speed quiets it down so clutch engagement becomes less noticeable.