I have been playing with my new atuotap software for an unrelated project, and I noticed that my Flex-a-lite fans come on at ~ 196*( ~ 91* C ) for the 60% run speed.

In ~ 80* temps driving they cycle on and off, I don't know for sure if I have hit the 204* for them to run at 100%.
My question is aimed at:
I thought I read somewhere that the engine needed to be at 210* to 215* for max perf of the engine and emmisions ( this was from a thread that someone posted on a lower stat ).

I would not have noticed this if I had not been taking intake temp reading, and the config I run has the engine temp on the list so I see it now.

Just a question if I am running the engine too cool for max perf ( again hp and emissions ).

 

That's exactly what I wanted to know. I just installed FAL #270 yesterday. I'm not sure either what the setting should be. Right now I have mine at 194* at 60% and kicks in 100% at 204*.

I hooked an AutoXRay scanner on my truck and noticed the temp stays at 194*-196* constantly but the funs are running nonstop. Do I need to raise the temp sensor higher? When I had the stock fan clutch on, it ran a around 202*-206* in normal driving.

 

Dunno if this helps you any but I pulled my (~5,000#)cuddy cabin to Lake Michigan last week with the AutoXRay plugged in. About an hour each way in heavy traffic. I have an '01 Scab 5.4/3.55 with the 2.2" radiator and trailer tow package. Outside air was 97*. AC on full blast.

Also thrown in the mix is the ASP underdrive pulleys. Coolant temp stayed around 204* for the most part, but it did "peak" at 208*.

Like I said, I dunno if this helps you any. I *Do NOT* have electric fans (yet).

 

Can either of you tell me what the water temp is during normal operation in relation to the engine temp at cylinder #1 displayed while running in self-diagnostic mode? I don’t have a scanner and my mechanical water temp. gauge hasn’t arrived yet.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Mine runs 190-194 degrees in self-diagnostic mode...2001 5.4 liter, stock stat, stock fan and 1.1" radiator.

 

I thought that the HEC was the same as the coolant temp, guess I should RTFM the FAQ to see for sure.

Maybe I should be running this for a comparison, rather then the software. This might provide more options for comparison.
I will take a look at HEC vs Autotap coolant temp, to try to find a delta if any.

So far :

Software :
204* - 208* ( stock fan w/ ASP underdrive pulleys )
194* - 196* ( FLX-270 )
202* - 206* ( Stock fan )
196* - 198 * ( FLX-270 )
194* - 201* ( FLX-270 / city diving )

HEC Instrument :
190* to 194*( Stock Fan )

If someone else gets the HEC to software compare befoe me, please post it.

Another question did you hook up the neg input fan on control ?
I did not see a need for this, as I do not race, and knowing my luck I would leave them on and kill the battery.

 

I gotta go out and do a bit of running around this afternoon. I'll throw the scanner back in the truck without a trailer and get other numbers. I'll post later on today.

'01 Scab/ 5.4/ 3.55/ ASP pulleys and 2.2 radiator

I'm following this thread as I'm thinking about E fans too.

 

Thanks for getting some additional numbers.
BTW search on electric fan*, and take a look I thought there was something about using them with the underdrive pulleys./ Don't know what for sure, I don't have the ASPs.

When I'm out later I'm going to run the HEC instrument temp vs the autotap temp, to see what the delta is. I need to log some more time with intake temp anyways.

 

Nope. Unless I have some type of cooling problems, I think I'm gonna pass.

I have the 2.2" radiator, ASP pulleys, 3.73 rear. This morning, I did a 45 mile run city and hwy. On the hwy, it stayed at 197*, City it was between 194*-201*. That was using my scanner. But I do notice it stays on all the time in city driving, but can't tell on the hwy. I'm long overdue for a coolant change, so I have to do that soon.

 

I added a switch to activate the fan via negative signal. This override can only occur when there is 12v source, which I wired to be present with the ignition switch on. So, I can’t leave the fan on while the ignition is off. One thing I noticed about this switch though is that it must be off to transmit a negative signal to activate the fan. So, basically I have to leave the switch on to not engage the manual override and the switch seems to get really hot! I don’t know if I need to find a more suitable ground or what so I unplugged it for now. Also, I plan to use this switch in the winter to turn the fan off when the defroster goes on and kicks on the A/C compressor override. I will just move its terminal location on the fan from the on location to the off location. Unfortunately I don’t have the 2.2 radiator and hot weather, slow in town speeds and AC on put me over the +100c as far as cylinder temps go. This is too hot for my liking, so I’m running water wetter and am thinking about a Cobra water pump to resolve the issue since I don’t want to give up the ASP pulleys.

 

Do you know if it is at 60% or 100%. I don't know if you know the turn on temp, but if this is 10* deg less then the current, they are running at 100%.

Just out of curisoity if it is running 100% for the city driving.

Last night after taking some intake temp reading, I noticed that the fans were off when I pulled into the drive, but I got out with it running, and when I walked around the front of the truck, they kicked on as I passed. I think it was in low 80s last night, and the humidity was high ( don't have my note book to verify this ).
The driving type was open highway 55+ mph with ~ 2 mi of 25 mph driving on the surface streets to my house.

 

Is this a common problem with the underdrive pulleys and the Electric fans ?

I though I read something about the combo, but could not recall what it was.

Just another item for what seems to be an Electric Fan FAQ that is developing here.
Once I get enough info and data points I will post another Thread with the topic of Electric Fan FAQ, so others that are looking at the same mod can check out a collective info source, and links to various threads.

Before I go any further...Thanks to all so far that have given input, from myself and all those who are looking at doing the same mod. and if you have any input Fan kit mfgr does not matter, and if you get the temp from the HEC instrument cluser or software, it all helps.

 

Doing some running around in the burbs this afternoon with air temps 92 to 94*f, the AutoXRay said 204* to 206* 95% of the time. Temp hit 210* for a moment when engine came up to temp and it would creep to 208* once in a while at a stop light. OD was used most of the time. AC on full blast.

I didn't hear the fan clutch engage, btw. Haven't heard it since the pulleys. '01 Scab/5.4/3.55/2.2 radiator and ASP pulleys.

How well does Water Wetter work? Any comments? I've looked at it a couple of times at Pep Boys but not hard enough to reach into my wallet.

 

I don't know if this helps answer any questions on temps, but I believe our trucks produce the best H.P. when the engine temps run (200-210 degrees?).

If the electric fans are moving the same or more CFM's across the radiator than the clutch fan we should not have a problem with overheating.

I have checked my coolant temps several times after driving around the City and the temps always seem to hold around 200 degrees after the engine is warmed up. We have had temps here as high as 100 degrees and my engine coolant temp is still holding at 200 degrees even after driving around for more than an hour.

My first fan kicks in at about 190 and my second at about 200. After driving around town and pulling into the garage I have actually seen my second fan cycle off for a couple minutes then cycle back on.

I really believe we are in good shape as long as we stay in the 195-215 degree range. It may even be alright if it occasionally got a little higher for a few minutes, but since mine doesn't seem to do this I have not checked to see what temp is considered too high.

One more thing to add, I am running a 180 degree stat which may be why my temps are running slightly lower than some of yours. It would be nice to know how much of a H.P. difference there is between 200 degrees and 215 degrees.


Rocks

 

I used a Raytech thermal gun to set the temp, it has a laser on it and you point it on an object and it gives a digital temp readout.With it I was able to set my fans (FLEX 270) to come on when the coolant temp was 175-180 in the area of the sensor in the radiator(inlet hose from engine). They don't run when the truck is in motion. I belive Ford sets the fans in the Crown Vic to come on at 205, GM 's are even higher.

As long as air is passing through the rad, they stay off, even at very low speed, and when I stop, they come right on, or soon after, and cycle on and off.

The tank can can be at 180 and the core at only 130, as I found with the gun. temps varied all over the radiator.

The most impressive is the A/C unit, it got no hotter than 104(avg 100-101), these things will burn your hand when operating.

When they heat up and the liquid expands, the pressure switch(near battery) cuts the power to the compressor, yet with the fan in place it kept it cool enough that it never needed to cycle, result is "ICE COLD" A/C, and an A/C system that will last longer, due to running cooler and cycling less.

I also installed the MarkVIII water pump, aka "Cobra-R" for $71.00