SSCULLY- Thanks for the pics, that's the setup I was thinking of. I have the Piaa airdam also, but don't have any lights next to the license plate. So that's where I'm thinking of trying.

 

Behind where the 510s are is where I took the stock rubber mat, and connected it to the bottom of the PIAA air dam. I did this similar to the stock airdam.
I did not want to take air from the rad inlet / lower flow point with the brake duct, that is why I took it from the opening next to the 520.
All I did was notch the flange on the brake duct to fit around the frame. It dropped right in. I used the small flat part of the airdam around that hole, to mount the brake duct's lower flange to.
I currently have wire ties on the holes, I need to get some black plastic screws to put in there ( will try to find these this weekend, need another set for the other side ).
Rubber mat attached to airdam.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...5966&anum=1916
Mounting holes for brake duct
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...5943&anum=1916

Just a little side note on connecting the Brake duct to the duct hose, you really cannot see it, but with the bottom of the brake duct mounted to the air dam, and the hose held in place witha wire tie at the bottom of the inner fender cover, all it took was 2 TEC screw in the bottom part of teh 3" inlet. The hose is pushed onto the brake duct, and then at like the 7 oclock position and at the 5o'clock position I drove in a small TEC screw to hold the hose to the brake duct. I tired a wire tie at first, but this only held up for 1 test drive, the tie could not with stand the wind speed generated out there, and pushed the hose off the brake duct.

deep6blue, welcome to the experiment....please take all this with a grain of salt, until completed ( WMS V tube is susposed to be on it's way ?, JLP air box I have now ).
deep6blue or Jupiterak,
If you have or can borrow a copy of autotap, I would be curious to know what the MAF flow rates are on that. Also if you could you tell me what the draw point is on the MAC. I thought these were enclosed airbox's like the Iceman, etc all, but I cannot recall straight away if it is this, or an open element like the K&N. If you coudl let me know, thanks.

 

One other question....The temp probe, wha tis that ?

Is that one of the outdoor thermometers that has the long lead on it for running outside a window ?
35 mph is where you go to even with the temp probe in the front of the truck. I did not watch the intake temp vs that. I think the autotap is using that little bulb probe that is in the intake tube just after the MAF. You readings are just after the airfilter, and before the MAF ?

 

My WMS V Tube showed up on Tue, I got it installed on wed.

It was dirt easy, cut 1.25" off of the WMS V Tube, and used a pumbing 3" to 3" rubber coupler for repairing underground pipes from the Home Depot performance section ( aka pumbing section ).

Got the 2nd brake duct routed up to the bottom of the air box, Did all the put together items on it, time for a test drive.

noticed my exaust note changed alot from the K&N.

Had a friend check the A/F mixture and holy *****, off the deep end.

It seems that with the pumping of the air into the air box, it was blowing the snot out of it.
I am sure I had tons of outside air temp, but I got the damn thing off before I caused a CEL, and strted having problems with the HO2 error poping at me.

I guess if I had a chip in, I could program for this, but now a 250.00 experiment is quickly turning into a 500.00 experiment.

I decided to put the K&N back on, to remove this potiental problem.

I will say the JLP air box in general is a real nice product, and without the dual air feeds it is a nice heat sheild.
With a tad more cutting so the sides allow more air flow into the engine compartment, and not creating the vacuum above the air box, into that huge honking filter, that this would make a nice substitute for a K&N on the end of the FIPK.
The filter is about 12" long with filter pleates at the end of the element, where the K&N has the chrome end plate.

One of 2 things might cure this.
1. Chip or a chp burned for the A/F mixture.
2. A stock MAFS.

For now I am sticking with the K&N installed on the truck.
I have been looking into chips, but until I get one in a checked out I don't want to try burning custom A/F mixtures.

So for now, the question is still open, but with only 5* mean between outside air temp and the K&N, I cannot see how a closed air system can make that big of a difference.

Sorry for those who were waiting with baited breath on the results of the closed system vs the open element system.

Someday I might put the stock MAFS back on the truck, and see if the same thing happens again, but for now I am right back where I started with this.

Any questions let me know, I have pics of the JLP install.
Anyone without a FIPk and has a chip, using a stock MAFS, let me know this is setup for a 5.4 as it sits now.
All parts are there and ready to go.

I have no idea how long it will be before I get a chip, as I have scheduled a LENTECH valve upgrade next, and want this done before the chip.

BTW I left the 2 brake ducts installed, the drivers side one is up the fender to the stock opening, so air is pumped into the engine compartment. The pass side brake duct, is zip tied to the area that the stock air box is mounted, to allow just that much more outside air into the compartment. This might be the setup to use, for clearing the compartment, dual 3" feeds.

 

Interesting to see someone else do this, nice to see the efforts to which SSCULLY is going to & reporting back, etc.

During the period when we were testing intakes & cat-back exhausts for the F-150 (data logging IAT, measuring ambient temps in various locations & speeds, etc.) we found that it also didn't matter what materials were using for the air handling tubes etc., plastic, aluminum, stainless steel, etc., they all showed the same basic IAT patterns. Low speeds & stationary, all IAT's went thru the roof, easily topping 180 degrees and more. Once the vehicle is moving at speeds of about 30 mph & up, there is plenty of air circulation under the hood, and the IAT sensor temps being reported to the PCM come down, as do the localized ambient temps from actual measurement. With enough cruising, IAT's were generally within a few degrees of ambient.

Comparative measurements of ambient air in the fenderwell to the temperature of the air in the location of the various air filter elements from intakes like K&N's FIPK, Volant, Air Force One, Airaid, etc. showed that with the vehicle is moving at about 35 mph on up, there wasn't more than about 10 degrees difference between air temps at the opening in the fenderwell versus air temps at the actual location of air entry into the air filter element. Those temps heated up similar to IAT's under low speed & stationary conditions.

Of course the hood has to be down, with temperature measurement readouts in the cabin, etc. while driving. A bit tedious, but not hard.

Interesting to see what the actual temps are, not just what the IAT sensor is reporting to the ECU, but actual measurement to see just what the various underhood ambient temperatures themselves are before reaching the IAT sensor. And at speeds of about 30-35 mph & up, there is very little difference in air temps in the opening in the fenderwell versus temps at the air filter element location in the intake kits we tested with.

The bottom line is, the effect on power from virtually any aftermarket intake kit is positive (simple, we all know that already), resulting from reduction in restriction in the air intake tract. All that really matters is just how many molecules of oxygen you get into the combustion chamber, that's it. We all know temperature affects air density, denser air has more molecules of oxygen, etc. The amount of oxygen getting into the combustion chamber determines the amount of fuel that can be burned, and that detemines power. Pretty simple.

In dyno testing there were certainly differences in just how much additional power each different intake kit we used actually gave of course, but that's another topic.

Good work, SSCULLY, & thanks for sharing your data!

 

You be a little high on Chicago elevation. Lake Michigan is about 575 ft. above sea level. Midway airport is about 568 ft. I might be off a couple of feet, but close enough.

Thanx for going to all the trouble to get real info. I never logged the readings I was getting off of the AutoXRay when I put the WMS in, but my numbers were close.

95*f days and I was seeing around 10* over ambient while driving and a 20 to 30* climb at idle.

Question. Do Electric fans have any noticeable effect on IAT? WHEN RUNNING they certainly would push more air at idle and I assume this would be reflected in IAT. At idle seems to be where the IAT really climbs.

 

ChiDiver,

Thanks for correcting me, I was not real sure thought I read that somewhere. I corrected the posting to reflect 575' rather then the 953'.

I did have not taken temp readings without the electric fans on it.
I have seen much higher temp climbs then the 20 to 30, so I could pontificate that this is the case ??? no real background on this.
31-JUL when I was taking readings there was a heat index of 93* and I was stuck on Devon in Elk Grove coming back from the FedEx substation, and between sitting in traffic on Devon, and south bound router 83, it climed to 194*.
I have also seen heat index of 104*, when the truck did not has heavy of traffic, and it was no where near this high ( air circulation seems to clear out the engine, also the truck was moving, so the fans would be running less the the first mentioned trip report. ).

Thanks for the info, and I hope I gave somewhat of a shot with answering the question.

If nothing else I'll see you on14-SEP at the Dyno event.

 

The truck was kinda sluggish this summer during stop and go traffic. I figured it was the open element. So I combined the ram air with an electric fan. I never got to really check it out cause it never got really hot once I did this but I would think it would help.
Engine Ventilator
some more pics
Gallery Picutres
The fan is an "Electric Turbo" fan the ricers are using. Its actually a 4" bilge fan and it puts out quite a bit of air. I don't have an way to measure the temps so I am just assumeing it will work. I guess we will see next summer. If it survives the winter.

 

Scully, when you finish all your testing, can you email me your findings / conclusions?
alex-j@cogeco.ca

I've read many posts about various FIPK's, and I wonder if the extra 2-3 HP they produce is worth the potential pitfalls.
AF-1 was one of my first mods, and although I still have it on my truck, lately I've been thinking about going back to the stock air-box.
Am I crazy?

I read a post over at FTW, and it really made me wonder, I guess it put some doubt in my mind, and that's why I'm here posting. It seems that everyone in this thread really knows there stuff, so I'll pose my question here.

First off, here is the post that raised an eyebrow:

((((("Any of you guys with custom airboxes/K&N's, try taking them off! In my old bronco, I had a k&N and boy did it mess me up. Ended up costing me over $1200 in the long run. It was so "free flowing" that my retarded-*** 351 would continuously DUMP gas in there. You could follow me with a bucket and fill up your own truck. I noticed a really nice power increase, but my god, mileage went from 10 down to 6.5.

Me, being as dumb as I am, enjoyed the power thoroughly, so I left it in. Then, I failed emissions. I went and got everything tested, seemed my cats were saturated and ruined, and my engine needed a major tuneup from all that dumping of gas.")))))


I've read many posts like the above, stating how FIPK's can cause the engine to run too rich, and result in a deterioration in gas mileage.
I know when you first get an intake, your MPG goes down a bit because your foots on the gas a little more, as was the case with me.
After the novelty wore off, I made a consiensoius effort to drive normal again, and really see if it affected my mileage., it's difficult to tell, but I think if anything, MPG went down a slightly.
Ok, enough of my blabbering, here are my questions:
Is there a correlation between FIPK, and engines running rich?
If my engine was running rich, is there a test the dealership could do to find out?
I just want to do what's best for my truck, and the above post has me worried somewhat.

What do you guys think?

Thanks
Habibi

 

During the period when we were testing intakes & cat-back exhausts for the F-150 (data logging IAT, measuring ambient temps in various locations & speeds, etc.) we found that it also didn't matter what materials were using for the air handling tubes etc., plastic, aluminum, stainless steel, etc., they all showed the same basic IAT patterns

Hey! Great new! We can buy these crappy *things* on eBay then!