My V8 was a V6 more than it was a V8
#31
engine misfire
Just in case replacing the plugs does not fix your problem i've got another idea for you. Mine missed at 30,000 miles. I took it in two times before they realized the windshield washer hose was split or cracked (something like that) and replaced the components. Apparently what was happening was it was dripping on the back plugs causing the problem. 13,000 miles later still no problems. This could be the moisture problem you mentioned.
#32
#34
Good, just thought I would check. By the way is your engine knocking or tapping yet during start up? I have been reading all the people that are having this problem and mine just started three weeks ago. Only does it for 30 seconds or so and then quites. Sounds like a diesel though and my buddie now likes to say "should have bought a chevy". I can't tell you how bad those words sound coming from his mouth. From the beggingn we've he's said don't buy a Ford and now he's gloating. His 2000 Z71 has 75,000 miles and no problems.
#35
#36
#37
Originally posted by BlueFlareside
I would definately take a 1/2 day off from work to fight this. I have plenty of PTO stocked up.
Just an update on my truck...
He said that the frist guy did not replace the tough to get at plugs but he pulled all 8 and replaced them. I am picking it up tomorrow because now he thinks I have either a bad coil pack or a faulty throttle part. I forget the name of the throttle part but he said that it is what controls the flow of fuel when you hit the gas. He took it for a test drive and said that it runs great except for when you really step on it then it shudders a little like it is not getting enough fuel. He is also testing each injector to see what pressure they are running at. He is waiting for parts so I will pick it up tomorrow and report back with all of the infomation.
I would definately take a 1/2 day off from work to fight this. I have plenty of PTO stocked up.
Just an update on my truck...
He said that the frist guy did not replace the tough to get at plugs but he pulled all 8 and replaced them. I am picking it up tomorrow because now he thinks I have either a bad coil pack or a faulty throttle part. I forget the name of the throttle part but he said that it is what controls the flow of fuel when you hit the gas. He took it for a test drive and said that it runs great except for when you really step on it then it shudders a little like it is not getting enough fuel. He is also testing each injector to see what pressure they are running at. He is waiting for parts so I will pick it up tomorrow and report back with all of the infomation.
Originally posted by BlueFlareside
The TPS was bad (throttle positioning sensor), which was causing even more problems. Also, he said the plug wires were bad! He said whoever put them on either bent them when installing them or they were bad from the start. He said that there is a graphite shaft in the wires and if bent the shaft breaks and it has to arc over the broken part. At idle this is tough but at higher speeds not as bad.
The TPS was bad (throttle positioning sensor), which was causing even more problems. Also, he said the plug wires were bad! He said whoever put them on either bent them when installing them or they were bad from the start. He said that there is a graphite shaft in the wires and if bent the shaft breaks and it has to arc over the broken part. At idle this is tough but at higher speeds not as bad.
#38
jefflaws,
I know you know way more about this than I ever will but if I search on www.fordpartsonline there is a part called a Coolant Temperature Sensor under Electrical, Powertrain Control. They do not put part numbers on this site. Also, the part says CTS on it. What does that mean?
In my mechanic's defense, he never looked at the wires until one of the last things because they are less than 4 months old and he did not figure that they would be bad.
I know you know way more about this than I ever will but if I search on www.fordpartsonline there is a part called a Coolant Temperature Sensor under Electrical, Powertrain Control. They do not put part numbers on this site. Also, the part says CTS on it. What does that mean?
In my mechanic's defense, he never looked at the wires until one of the last things because they are less than 4 months old and he did not figure that they would be bad.
Last edited by BlueFlareside; 08-05-2002 at 02:29 PM.
#39
The cts print is a vendor code, not a ford name, number , code, etc.
In a 98 4.6, the ECT is there ONLY for the temp guage on the dash.
Like i said earlier, a bad TP sensor, or any other fuel management sensor would not cause a feeling of a miss, buck, jerk etc (or a "shudder" like the guy told you).
Why dont you unplug the 2 sensors that he put on and go drive the truck and you will see what i mean. A bad TP just doesnt act like that.
Anyway, enough arguing, my only point was that im 99.999999999% sure that the plugs and wires was all that was wrong with it.
I'm out...
In a 98 4.6, the ECT is there ONLY for the temp guage on the dash.
Like i said earlier, a bad TP sensor, or any other fuel management sensor would not cause a feeling of a miss, buck, jerk etc (or a "shudder" like the guy told you).
Why dont you unplug the 2 sensors that he put on and go drive the truck and you will see what i mean. A bad TP just doesnt act like that.
Anyway, enough arguing, my only point was that im 99.999999999% sure that the plugs and wires was all that was wrong with it.
I'm out...
#42
Just to update you guys who are having the same problems with your 4.6's, my truck is still running great after over 6,000 miles and 6 months of driving.
I guess I did find a good mechanic after all. Last weekend I put new pads on and had the rotors turned. I took the rotors down to my mechanic and he turned them for $20 total. He also got me a set of Ceramic pads with a lifetime warranty for $63 ($120 retail).
I guess I did find a good mechanic after all. Last weekend I put new pads on and had the rotors turned. I took the rotors down to my mechanic and he turned them for $20 total. He also got me a set of Ceramic pads with a lifetime warranty for $63 ($120 retail).
#43
Originally posted by BlueFlareside
Last weekend I put new pads on and had the rotors turned. I took the rotors down to my mechanic and he turned them for $20 total. He also got me a set of Ceramic pads with a lifetime warranty for $63 ($120 retail).
Last weekend I put new pads on and had the rotors turned. I took the rotors down to my mechanic and he turned them for $20 total. He also got me a set of Ceramic pads with a lifetime warranty for $63 ($120 retail).