While getting my tires serviced, the tech broke one of my lug nuts while putting the tire back on.

They gave me the info to get it fixed, but my question is - how dire is this? How long can I run on only this tire w/ 1 lug nut missing?

Thx.

 

I'd get it replaced asap. An ez-out will do the trick to remove the broken piece.

(btw - the shop should make this right for you if they broke it)

..............................Scott

 

An easy out, don't think thats going to be much help. What year truck is this on? I think that the 96- should be the same as the 97+ for the rear axle. Also what end was this on, front or rear. Also did the lug nut itself break or did it break the stud off with the lug nut? If you want to replace the wheel stud they simply press out through the back of the axle plate on the rears. Just pull off the drums and then press it out the back and then press the new one in. An easy out would not work at all in getting the old stud out of the axle. I'd explain this more but I'm gonna wait till I hear what axle you have.

 

They probably used air impact which is not recommended especially on alloy wheels. The tire dealers argue that it cuts productivity, but how much productivity is gained when they have to fix broken or crosstreaded lugs caused by air impact. They also argue that the torque sticks are accurate so the use of had torque wrenches are needed. Wrong!
Ford is now including a warning on some wheels that air impact is not to be used. My daughter's '02 Mustang has warning.
I haven't checked my '03 Exp. yet.
Insist on the use of hand wrenches and calibrated torque wrench.

 

Impacts are evil. I don't care how fast they are. I would definitely make the tire dealership make and pay for this repair.

Impact Story #1: I had some tire work done on my Cherokee a couple of years back. They cross threaded the stud using an impact wrench, which basically froze the nut to the stud. Then when I'm removing my tire to check the brakes a few months later, I end up breaking the stud with a hand lug wrench. The brakes were fine, but it ended up taking me a few hours to go to the parts store, get the stud and replace it. Not a hard job, just sucks.

Impact Story #2: Same vehicle. My transfer case had a leak from the front output seal. I took it in to a tranny shop to have it replaced. Simple job (for them): $80. However, the moron who refilled the t-case and tranny with fluid, used an impact to replace the plug on the t-case. This drove the plug in so far that it ended up cracking the t-case. I get the rig back, and before I even drive it off, I notice ATF basically pouring out of my t-case. They keep it overnight to fix it. They call me the next day, and tell me that they've fixed it by using JB weld on the cracked t-case. I told them it was unacceptable. After arguing about it for a while, I show the guy that there's already a drip of fluid coming off the epoxied crack. Long story short, the tranny place ended up replacing the cracked t-case half, which is basically a t-case rebuild. About a $500 job. Just because they used an impact wrench.

Just a couple of stories to illustrate that impact wrenches save time, but can do some serious damage.