brake upgrades?
#1
brake upgrades?
Has anybody done anything to get more stopping power out of these trucks? Needless to say, with 36" tires, I can't really stop on a dime. I see different pads and rotors out there. Has anybody had any experience/success with anything?
Thanks!
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
Thanks!
------------------
hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
#2
The trick is finding out what kind of pads you have on your front brakes (is a stupid number like ABB-693-551C GG or something like that) if your pads are new enough for you to read the codes on the sides (may see on outboard side after removing tires), you may find a distributor who is sharp enough to decode it -- OR, you may find a distributor that knows what kind comes from the factory.
You can usually then up the friction rating (get help from distributor or friction mfr) and up your braking efficiency.
Some metalic or ceramic or other 'plastic' based products can exhibit some brake noise; and the stuff that lasts forever generally is not as effective (read: powerful) as the more aggressive stuff.
Brake material composition is like the secret sauce at Godfather's Pizza, or the secret spices at KFC, etc. -- and those mixtures are different at each lining manufacturer.
There's no one 'magic' lining material. On a production vehicle, the brake manufacturer must certify that the brakes meet a battery of tests -- from snubs to cold effectiveness, to effectiveness at given braking (eg pedal) effort -- to parking brake grab on hill performance, to include material wear and rotor-friendliness.
If you guessed that there's a compromise to passing all of those tests, then you're right on target.
There's nothing in it for the vehicle manufacturer to skimp on the brake material, so you can rest assured that the brakes are the best all-around mix for the intended use AND THE PACKAGE (realestate) ALLOTMENT.
Changing wheel diameter has a dramatic affect on braking performance -- since the brakes are designed to produce a given amount of torque -- and of course, if you lengthen the diameter of the wheel, you increase the torque required to provide the same tire-to-ground leverage that the tire/wheel exerts on the brakes.
You have already noticed the effect in your seat-of-the-pants observation.
You might be able to increase the clamping a bit by using an F-250 power assist (booster) -- however this 'fix' will do nothing for your performance (the brakes can only absorb just so much power), but it will return some positive 'feel of power' to normal brake applications up until the brakes fade out or self-destruct due to excessive heat (97 to 70 mph snubs are brake killers!).
End of Brake Awareness 300
------------------
Y2K™
Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc, 3.73LS, Skid, 7700# HD Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, Toreador Red, called "Nick"
You can usually then up the friction rating (get help from distributor or friction mfr) and up your braking efficiency.
Some metalic or ceramic or other 'plastic' based products can exhibit some brake noise; and the stuff that lasts forever generally is not as effective (read: powerful) as the more aggressive stuff.
Brake material composition is like the secret sauce at Godfather's Pizza, or the secret spices at KFC, etc. -- and those mixtures are different at each lining manufacturer.
There's no one 'magic' lining material. On a production vehicle, the brake manufacturer must certify that the brakes meet a battery of tests -- from snubs to cold effectiveness, to effectiveness at given braking (eg pedal) effort -- to parking brake grab on hill performance, to include material wear and rotor-friendliness.
If you guessed that there's a compromise to passing all of those tests, then you're right on target.
There's nothing in it for the vehicle manufacturer to skimp on the brake material, so you can rest assured that the brakes are the best all-around mix for the intended use AND THE PACKAGE (realestate) ALLOTMENT.
Changing wheel diameter has a dramatic affect on braking performance -- since the brakes are designed to produce a given amount of torque -- and of course, if you lengthen the diameter of the wheel, you increase the torque required to provide the same tire-to-ground leverage that the tire/wheel exerts on the brakes.
You have already noticed the effect in your seat-of-the-pants observation.
You might be able to increase the clamping a bit by using an F-250 power assist (booster) -- however this 'fix' will do nothing for your performance (the brakes can only absorb just so much power), but it will return some positive 'feel of power' to normal brake applications up until the brakes fade out or self-destruct due to excessive heat (97 to 70 mph snubs are brake killers!).
End of Brake Awareness 300
------------------
Y2K™
Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc, 3.73LS, Skid, 7700# HD Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, Toreador Red, called "Nick"