I'll be taking my front rotors off my '98 this weekend for the first time with 126k miles on it... Sounds like I may need a BIG hammer...

 

Check my post for" Easier stuck rotor removal" when all else fails or you dont want to beat the bearings up with a hammer.

 

Same issue; last fall. Needed new pads and the dang driver's side had a wobble to it since I bought it with 37,000 miles on it.

I got one side off, but not the other. Took it to a mechanic who I trust and who I figured could get it off W/O beating it to death and damaging the wheel bearing.

Well, they couldn't get it off either, but the resorted to a trick one of the guys learned at a Mitsibishi dealership he worked at.

They got either a saws-all or a portable band saaw and cut the rotor from the outside of the rotor to as close the the flange (hub) as they could W/O cutting thru it and damaging the bearing.

Then they made annother similar cut 90 degrees from it. They put a cold chisel in one of the cuts and tapped it a few times and they could hear it "pop" loose.

Of course, it cost me twice as much because of the time involved and the fact that they went thru three saw blades, but it worked.

Frankly, I think dipping it in liquid nitrogen and then heating with a torch would also do it.

Got them home and put antiseize on the inside of both rotors; very little clearence there.

 

Most cars and trucks with slip on rotors in my neck of the woods slip right off with a few taps.

Take into account your environment before condemning all rotors as a pain in the buttocks to remove. I see posters from NY, Chicago, Illinois, Mass., etc. We occasionally get used vehicles from auctions north of us or near the coast where yes, we've killed ourselves doing chassis work to these vehicles. Sometimes it's just the nature of the beast.

 

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