Hi,

My truck will be two years old soon, and I am wondering if I should change/flush the brake fluid. I read somewhere that brake fluid should be flushed/replaced about every two years.
Does anyone know what Ford recommends?

Thanks in advance.

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP
http://www.fordf150.net

 

The Sheduled Maintenance Guide for my '99 goes up to 150,000 miles and never mentions replacing the brake fluid. The brake system is supposed to be inspected every 15,000 miles.

I would say you probably don't need to replace it unless it gets contaminated w/dirt and/or water. Dirty fluid will boil at a lower temp than clean fluid.

It makes sense to bleed any air out of the system when you are doing any other brake, tire or suspension work.

 

I've never had a brake fluid problem and went 160K and 130K without changing it. However, the girlfriend's Volkswagen Jetta recommends every two years regardless of mileage. I can't imagine it hurting anything as long as you don't wait too long before the first one.

[This message has been edited by all4chem (edited 03-31-2000).]

 

My 98 owner's manual says nothing about the brake fluid either.
The brake fluid is visibly dirty, but it's not too bad. The fluid on my girlfriend's 88 Oldsmobile looks like sludge. Totally black - after 140K miles. I don't think it's ever been changed.

It probably would be good preventative maintenance. I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. (Hey, isn't that somebody's slogan?)

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP
http://www.fordf150.net


[This message has been edited by Kelly (edited 03-31-2000).]

 

I'm pretty diligent about maintenance. Oil, fluid , and filter changes are done probably before necessary, but that's just me. Even so, I've never done routine brake fluid changes. I had even heard that it should be done once a year. Brake fluid starts getting contaminated from day one, just like motor oil, but how much contamination is necessary to affect performance? I'm not sure, but I'm leery of doing it myself, risking air bubbles in the lines and having the brakes go out while doing 80 on the highway.

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2000 XLT Black Sport, Flareside, 2WD, SuperCab, 5.4L Auto. Other factory options: 3.55 LS, Class III tow, 6-way Captains chairs w/CD changer, Remote entry , and Slider window.
Mods: Undercoat, window tint, headlight & tail light covers, removed "Sport" decals, upgraded Triton tailgate emblem, Linex spray-in bedliner, an ARE LSII lid, recessed Blazer reflectors below the bottom tailgate edge (Thanks Captain),and a Flowmaster cat-back exhaust kit.
Wish list: K&N FIPK, Belltech 3/4 drop, Belltech or Helwig sway bars, and a front bumper cover with lights.
Check out more pics at: http://home.columbus.rr.com/selva1/f150.html



[This message has been edited by selva1 (edited 03-31-2000).]

 

selva1,

No offense intended, but if your concerned about your safety, don't you think it's worth it to take it in and have the brake fluid replaced, even if it costs you $50? (I actually have no idea what it costs).
I think it is.

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP
http://www.fordf150.net

 

I have always kept my fluid clean by replacing a portion of it from the holding tank everytime I change my oil. Use a syringe type tool to suck it out from the top. Stays clean and seems to help. Capt.

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Capt. America..,
1998 F-150 XLTSC...2WD.. . 4.10LS rear...auto E40D... 5.4L...Flairside... Ground effects... Billet Pedals... Billet Grill... Billet Brake lite... Oval Mirror... Bed rails... Bug Deflector... Wood Grain Kit...Fog lites... TPS...Velocity tube... K&N... ss Ford tag.,.Tinted Windows... overhead/floor consoles... Mood lights...Blue bulbs... Alarm...Radar...Dashmat... Fire/Ice rear window tint ...conspicuity reflectors... cd changer...mobil 1... Painted rear Drums... Helwing Sway Bar... Dual Exhaust... Halogen Back-up bulbs... clear corner lens...
Tail lens covers... Leather...Floor Mats... Seat covers...Tow Pkge...
Side window Louvers... Painted Brake calipers... Custom Captian America Paint Job...TRIPLE LED brake lights...Rain guards... Painted throttle body cover...sliding rear window...Superchip...Custom Gas cap holder...2" leveling shackels...Fox tail key chain...Clear turn signal bulbs..

 

Kelly:
You are right that it should be changed by someone, but like the others before me posted, several of my past vehicles have gone tens of thousands of miles with no brake problems as a result of dirty fluid, only pads and rotors. Does anyone know when brake fluid breaks down to the point of being a safety hazard?

 

The brake fluid isn't doing anything magic. In fact, you could replace your brake fluid with water and the brakes would work fine - until the water boils.

When brake fluid boils, you get so much air/gas in the system, that pressing the pedal just compresses the air, and doesn't activiate the brakes.

The brake heat is what will cause the fluid to boil - and if it happens at all 4 wheels simultaneously (very unlikely) you are S.O.L.

Ford must feel that even w/old, dirty brake fluid, the brakes on our trucks will not generate enough heat to boil the fluid under normal use.

If you drive your truck like a race car or haul heavy loads, you might consider replacing the fluid with something with a higher boiling temp.

Has anyone boiled the brake fluid on a newer F150?

 

I have never changed the brake fluid in any vehicle I have ever owned..as mentioned above, 9 times out of 10..it is not mentioned or required in an owners manual. I have changed a small portion like CAPT.AMERICA has..but not on either of the F-150s (98 and current) I have owned.

I have not yet boiled the brake fluid in my F-150..and doubt I ever could.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99




[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 04-02-2000).]

 

Folks,

Having mispent some of my youth as a brake mechanic for ~13 yrs, I can honestly say I have never "changed" brake fluid. Engine oil must contend with combustion residue, contaminants introduced by air, or material produced by wear (such as bearings etc.). Likewise, transmission fluid must carry away microparticles produced by transmission wear. Coolant and power steering fluid are exposed to fewer moving parts prone to wear, therefore they last longer. Brake fluid, in contrast, is not really exposed to the atmosphere (due to that bladder on your master cylinder cap), and the total amount of wear from moving parts in the master cylinder, calipers, or wheel cylinders, is minimal. As a consequence, the only thing that brake fluid must contend with is heat, and it does so rather well. Unless you are exposing your vehicle to grand prixe-like braking conditions, it is unlikely that the brake fluid will "wear out". In addition, whenever one has a caliper rebuilt or replaced, you are, in effect, replacing your fluid as a significant fraction of the brake fluid is lost in the process. The same goes for a master cylinder replacement.

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BLK 2000 F150 XLT 4X4 SuperCab SB, Shift-on-the-fly, 5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55 LS, 4-Wheel disc/ABS, ORP, Keyless, PWR Seat, Slider, Soft tonneau, Cab steps.
MODS: Rhino, Molded flaps, Mobil1 0W-30

 

I think I'll do what the CAP'N does. Just replace a bit of fluid in the master cylinder. That'll make me feel better ;-)

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP
http://www.fordf150.net

 

I was told by a friend (who owns a repair shop) to pinch off the brake line and open the bleeder before pushing the piston into the caliper. This keeps the dirty fluid from being pushed into the anti-lock pump. I do this and drain the master cylinder with a baster and then refill with new fluid. ABS parts get very expensive, and a little PM goes a long way.

 

Be careful about 'pinching' any brake line, as you can easily 'bruise' the hose -- which can lead to meeting new people in an untimely manner.

The brake fluid acts as much as a lubricant for the pistons/seals as a medium for pushing -- and flushing (or more aptly: bleeding off some) the piston/cylinder after squishing it back in for a brake reline *could* clean out any crud that get's dead-headed at the point where the seal/piston has been scrubbing back and forth for the past 50K miles.

Most quick-change shops never bleed brakes unless they replace a caliper or wheel-cylinder. Disc calipers are more touchy, since they move ever so slightly over their lifetime -- and the most damage usually occurs during the 'push-back' of the pistons into the calipers during a reline. That's why many 'come-backs' occur -- where one caliper's piston doesn't roll back the o-ring nicely -- and one caliper is loose and the other has the proper drag -- causing a noticeable 'pull' on the brakes. The mechanic then almost always convinces you that you need a couple rebuilt calipers -- which, of course, solves the problem.

Play the odds, and just forget about bleeding the brakes -- until reline time. The comment about not pushing back crappy fluid into the mechanical wizardry is wise -- and by merely cracking open the bleeders before the 'push-back' of the piston for new pads, you can affect the same outcome without pinching the hoses.

Proper methods for bleeding the brakes without tripping the brake fault sensors is best left for chapter two.

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XLT SC SB 5.4 4x4 3.73 LS

 

With due respect to other posters, -
brake fluid IS something that SHOULD be changed every 30 - 50Tho. mi., or so. It CAN become contaminated with moisture - some brake fluids are VERY suseptibile to this and actually lose their ability to prevent boiling, also, if you look at clean fluid & "used" fluid you would see that the used is definitly black & dirty.

If you have your brakes done, & the service people do NOT flush the system I would be suspicious of their worksmanship!!!

As your pads wear down the fluid in your reservoir will go down, so it's a good idea to check this often, depending on your braking methods.

Baring flushing out the system - which is relativley cheap, a good stop gap is the idea of draining out the fluid in the reservoir & refilling it with the correct DOT brake fluid.

Check the service manual for the correct fluid, as many are not compatable.

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98 F150 S/C 4.6 2wd Vermillion/Silver,HD Tow Pkg, Boards, Vents, Lund Bug Chaser, DIY "breezer" Tailgate, 5th whl hitch, Tool box, 16" OEM Mag's,BEEP,BEEP roadrunner floor mats.
Mobil1 /Wix Oil filter/ K&N / air box mod.
In looks & go - Chevy - like a rock.