Has anyone found a reasonable source for slotted and/or cross drilled front rotors for the late model F150. I am getting ready to replace mine and would like to get an upgraded set, rather than use the same crap that came on it.

Any input would be appreciated.

------------------

97 F150 Lariat 4X4 Ext. Cab. 5.4, AT, Tow Pkg, bedliner, white/grey 2tone w/ grey leather, Fact. CD changer, Gibson Side Swept, K&N, Bosch Platinum +4's,Michelin LTX 265/70 16, S/D Triton V8 emblems, Both doors cracked, Piston slap quieted by Mobile One & Slick 50 Synthetic.

 

dlsipe, I was actually thinking of doing the same thing for my truck. The only place I found on the internet that sold slotted rotors was at www.truckperformance.com. They are selling them for about $80 a piece. I have no clue as to whether this is a good deal or not. That is just what I found. What exactly do the slotted rotors do better? I agree in that the factory ones stink. Hope this helps.

------------------
1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 extended cab short bed
Options: Off Road package, Towing package, 4.6L V8, Captain's chairs, LS rear axle, green with two tone tan
Modifications: Westin Brushguard
Pioneer Premier cassette receiver with 6-disc CD changer
Goodyear Wrangler AT/S
Future mods: Superchip
Nerf bars(Manik or Warn)
Spray-in-bedliner
KC Daylighters
Winch(Ramsey or Warn)with hidden mount
Trailmaster 4" Lift Kit
35" BFGoodrich tires
Dual exhaust(Borla or K&N)
Next Generation K&N II Kit
Custom hood with air intake
Seat covers(water proof)

 

dlsipe, I was actually thinking of doing the same thing for my truck. The only place I found on the internet that sold slotted rotors was at www.truckperformance.com. They are selling them for about $80 a piece. I have no clue as to whether this is a good deal or not. That is just what I found. What exactly do the slotted rotors do better? I agree in that the factory ones stink. Hope this helps.

------------------
1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 extended cab short bed
Options: Off Road package, Towing package, 4.6L V8, Captain's chairs, LS rear axle, green with two tone tan
Modifications: Westin Brushguard
Pioneer Premier cassette receiver with 6-disc CD changer
Goodyear Wrangler AT/S
Future mods: Superchip
Nerf bars(Manik or Warn)
Spray-in-bedliner
KC Daylighters
Winch(Ramsey or Warn)with hidden mount
Trailmaster 4" Lift Kit
35" BFGoodrich tires
Dual exhaust(Borla or K&N)
Next Generation K&N II Kit
Custom hood with air intake
Seat covers(water proof)

 

Buckster,

The main benefit is cooler braking, thus less warping and quicker stops. I am on my 2nd set of rotors, (both turned twice) and I think this is crazy for a truck with only 54K miles.

Thanks for the link. I ordered a set of slotted rotors and HP pads. Will post the results.

Darin

 

While at my son-in-law's place last night I happened to 'find' a recent copy of J.C. Whitney catalog to have brake upgrade kits for Chevies. They had slotted vented rotors with upgraded calipers etc.. Pricey devels ($400 - $700) -- but if they sell them for the Chevy -- perhaps...

------------------
Y2K™ Jim Gorka

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

I installed a set of "Powerstop" cross-drilled rotors and "911" pads on the advice of a mechanic friend. He said I should do it for two reasons: 1) increased tire size would decrease performance of the brake system, 2) reduced brake fade. He was right on both counts. OEM was bad to begin with, but 285x75x16 felt like I was 'cruising' to a stop. These new brakes are ~20 quicker than the original OEM setup (tires and brakes) and ran about $400 as I recall (lost the receipt). They drop in as an R & R. I ordered them from: http://www.eliteone.com/brakes.htm.

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-27-2000).]

 

gofish, was that 400 for two rotors, or four? I have drum brakes in the back.

------------------
White 97 XLT SC 4.6, 4X4, 3.55ls, door cracks, tow pkg, long bed, Rhino liner, Owens running boards

 

MOVEOVER,

I love your name! ~$400 was the cost for the front rotors and pads. I didn't do the rears. Mine are drum, too. I found my Visa bill: $437 included shipping. Powerstop is an Autospecialty-linked brand name. I made a mistake in my previous email. I ordered the pads and rotors here:
http://www.eliteone.com/brakes.htm


[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-27-2000).]

 

Golfish,

Do you think your source woudl cross drill the slotted rotors that I have coming. That would be the ultimate in stopping power.

 

DLSipe,

I wouldn't think so, unless they're the manufacturer. There might be some liability that's assumeable for modifying someone else's product. Maybe the manufacturer of the slotted rotors would? or a machinist? I've never used slotted rotors--never had that choice. The other vehicles I have have BaerClaws, and they don't offer a 'slotted' option, I don't think, only smooth, or cross-drilled. How does the "slotted" theory differ from cross-drilled?

 

Crossdrilled rotors are drilled becuase in racing the gasses from the pad contacting the rotor does not allow full contact of the pad to the rotors. So the holes are there to vent the gas thru and let the pad touch firmly on the rotor. The disadvantage is that they are prone to cracking. Yes, they can crack. Not good.

The slotted rotors use some of the same theory about the gassing of the pads, but also the groove cleans the pad as it passes over it. These are not prone to cracking like the crossdrilled. But the downside is good luck turning them. I dont know if you cant or cannot. I have heard of people asking on the mustang boards about turning them, but never anyone has done it that I have read.

Hope that helps. I know powerslot makes a lot of different slotted rotors. I believe that performance products stocks them.

matt

 

Thanks for the insight, Matt. I didn't know about the cracking with cross-drilled. Strange--for fatigued metal, drill a hole to stop a crack, but a drilled surface under stress tends to crack. I'd a thought the venting would have cured that problem. So what do I know anyway, I thought the venting was to reduce heat, not increase surface contact. Now that you mention it, I remember reading it when researching the why's of cross-drilled vs. stock.

 

sorry for the stutter, guys.

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-28-2000).]

 

DlSipe:

Be careful about doing your own (or sub-contracting) drilling -- as it is imperative that the holes be indexed with the vanes of the rotor else you will have holes unevenly distributed against the slots -- which will end up with un-balanced (least problem) or non-thermally stable (most problematic) rotors which could result in cracking (least problem) or catastrophic and sudden explosion (you figure) of the rotor.

Drilling solid rotors is the easiest to get away with -- but if you're working from an already vented rotor -- you should have the expertise of the rotor manufacturer on your side. If they'll 'bless' it, then ok, but...

Just for grinnies -- look back in this forum under Rotor and you'll find a machinist or production worker who works for a rotor manufacturer. Pose the question to him directly.

By the way -- since an earlier post by me -- I've found that J.C. Whitney has an F-150-Specific catalog -- and I saw a set of drilled rotors in it for under $80 each -- I called JCW for my own catalog -- not available from the selection on their web site -- and not yet received. I peeked at my buddy's copy -- and it is darned chocked full of neat 'stuff'.

------------------
Y2K™ Jim Gorka

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

I can't get to it either. Bet their server is down. I'll try and find their number at home tonight.