I have a '97 F-150 Extended Cab Lariat 4x4, Trition 4.6L, 4x4 pack., with disc brakes up front, and drums in the rear. I am changing the pads (do all work I can myself) and need to have the rotors turned, but I don't know how to get them off- some have told me it is simple, others just the opposite-extremely diffucult. This is my first 4x4 so that is why I am a little precautious about working on some stuff. Would it be eaiser to have rotors turned ON the truck or is it even possible? If not can someone tell me what to do in order to get the rotors off? THANKS

[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 06-06-2000).]

 

The best way is to have the rotors machined on the truck, but if you want to take them off to be turned here's what ya do. Remove the front wheels, remove the calipers( 2 13mm bolts), remove the pads, and remove the caliper brackets(2 15mm? or 18mm bolts can't remember). The rotors may be held on with a couple of push nuts, just cut them off with a pair of side cutters. The rotors may be a little stubborn coming off. Spray some penetrating oil around the hub and let soak, then lightly tap them off with a rubber malet or soft faced hammer. Good luck.

 

The caliper bolts are 18mm. I had to buy an 18mm socket since I didn't have one. Good luck!

 

Er... May seem stupid but I'll post it just in case... Take them off as described above! You DO NOT need to remove the center retainer/bearing nut I.E. the rotors come off without removing the "bearings." It just looks like it's all one piece. Spray a little lube on it and tap with mallet (rubber preferably, plastic or metal if necessary). I don't know all the terminology for the parts but I do know when I did the brakes on my 97 I looked at them and said crap... They are one piece. Closer inspection revealed they just fit really well and were rusted up a bit. A few taps with a hammer and off they came. If you've ever done brakes in the past don't fear these... They are quite simple. I'm just glad I have the four wheel disc's now. I don't really enjoy changing out the drums. Didn't really mean to post something so silly but wasn't sure if that was what Pat Danzler was fearing... The whole bearing removal thing.

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2000 F-150 Lariat S/C 4x4 ORP 5.4L Bright Red/gold

 

Hey guys!! THANKS for all the advice!! I got the rotors off and had them turned today (it was very easy after ya'll told me that I didn't have to remove axle nut-- just tapped them off with a rubber mallet). Anyway, had them turned and replaced pads, and now I have smooth stops, and no more high pitch squeak while riding. THANKS A HEAP GUYS!!!. I really APPRECEIATE the info. THANKS AGAIN!!

 

well you guys have had better luck then I I have oiled mine and beat on them for about an hour. After 80000 miles they will not come off.That is why I came to this site to get some help I was thinking I still did not have everything loose or off but it appears I do Lookoing at the whole thing what holds the wheel and tire on The axle bot does not and the studs are just in the rotor All my other fords had a large nut that held the roror on.It does not make sense looking at it are you sure there is not something else I am missing? Anyhelp would be appreciated On jack stands now. Thanks

 

big Al,
The only thing that will keep the rotor from coming off (at least on mine) is the caliper and the caliper brackets. All you should have to do is remove the brackets and the caliper will come off with the bracket, then tap the rotor off. If you plan on replacing the pads, I will recommend removing the caliper from the bracket, then removing the bracket.

 

Well after heating beating and pouring the oil to it. it (the left side)finally came off I am not a mechanic but I have always done my own work I must say this is the hardest I have ever had doing a brake job!!!!!! I will make sure I put some never cease on the back side. I appreciate your reply.

 

Hey big al. just three days ago at work I had a 98 Expedition brake job. By the time the front rotors came off the vehicle they were not salvageable. The rotors were rusted to the outside surface of the hub. It took my air hammer and a small sledge hammer to remove them. But normally they come right off. But they tend to rust on when salt from the roads or beach gets involved.

 

Thanks for everyone's advice! Saved me a headache last night as mine were good and rusted at 80,000 miles (Just bought it a few months ago). It was one of the easiest brake jobs I've done--Knowing that using a bigger hammer would free the rotors. Just bought plain rotors and good pads at a parts-house. Works good now.

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'97 F-150 Lariat Ext. Cab 4X4

• White/Silver
• 4.6L, Auto.
• Bugshield/Bedmat/Toolbox/Tinted Windows
• 265/75/16 BFGoodrich on polished 16x8 AR-136's
• Cat-back Dual Exhaust

 

My .02

I tried to change the brakes myself also. The truck has 54,000 on it. The drums came off with a little persuasion and the rest of the rear end was no more difficult than any other drum set up I have ever done. Now, to the front end. The pads were easy, the disks.... This is a 4x4. With the caliper and caliper bracket removed the Haynes manual says the rotor will just come off. After 2 hours, with a gear puller even, no luck. I called my local dealer. His response: beat it off the hub; it's the only way they do it. I spent the next 2 hours trying to beat it off, no luck. Finally I removed the hub and rotor as an assembly and took to a buddy who has a machine shop and had them pressed out with a hydraulic press. The rotor I had beat on was trashed. Both rotors were within tolerance for turning but since I destroyed the one I bought a set of rotors from NAPA.
Just a heads up, if it doesn’t come off with a little pulling and tapping take the rotor and hub (hub held on by 3 bolts from the back and the 37mm nut on the drive shaft) off together and have them pressed off. Be careful, my hubs were fine but they are $260 each and in my area are not a stocked item. Also this $50 (parts only), 4 hour, in my driveway brake job turned into a 12 hour, $250 headache.

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1997 F-250 Light Duty, Super Cab, Short Bed, 5.4L, 4x4, 3.73LS, Gibson SuperTruck exhaust, K&N Filter, BFG AT(KO) 285/75R16, Westin Black Nerf Bars, SuperChip.

 

Ihave beet on mine with a sledge hammer for 2 hours now and they won't budge. HELP!!!

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97 F-150 S/C 4x4 ORP XLT 4.6 K&N , Flowmaster w/dual tailpipes, Bosch+4 plugs,Ford 9mm wires,Superchip.Patriot fiberglass toneau cover, Westin chrome step bars. Rear seat lift 4".
Kenwood 4011 stereo, USAcoustics 2150 amp, Profile electronic 3 way crossover, 2 10" IDQ DVC's, and Polk Dx7 5x7/6x8 3 ways in the front doors.

FUTURE PERFORMANCE MODS:
4.10 gears, Edlebrock shocks, Magnacharger, Airaid, and slotted rotors.

OTHER FUTURE MODS:
Ram Air hood w/functional ram air, suspension lift, 17" polished wheels, 35" tires, and sunroof.

 

Tip from an old brakeman:

Apply penetrating oil to the studs and hub-pilot (not wetting the rotor faces). Put tire/wheel back on, but finger-tighten the wheel nuts. Drive truck forward/backward sharply stabbing the brakes to loosten the grip of the discs from the hub. Remove tire/wheel and resume removal as per suggestions above.