HOW HARD INSTALL ON ROTORS AND PADS????
#1
HOW HARD INSTALL ON ROTORS AND PADS????
Ok what am I getting myself into with putting on knew front rotors and pads on my 97 f150 ORP 4x4. I am pretty good with working on trucks but I am just wondering if it is worth the money to pay someone to put them on. If anyone has ever done it can u give me some instruction how? Another thing I had to buy ceramic pads for the front which were really expensive ( twice as much as semi-metalic) at $112 for a set. Napa told me they were OEM so I said ok, were they right??? ANY INFO WILL HELP!
THANKS
------------------
RED 97 F150 4x4 ORP
MODS:
ENGINE:
* Velocity tube w/ K&N filter
* A/C Delco 9mm wires and plugs
* RPM single modified exhuast
SUSPENSION:
* Rancho RS5000 shocks
* cranked torsion bars
WHEELS&TIRES:
* American Racing 16x8 Nitro Wheels
* 33/11.5 Mickey Thompson MTX Baja Radials
INTERIOR:
* Panasonic 40x4 flip down cd headset
* Pheonix Gold 300 watt amp
* 2 10" JBL's in custom made box under rear seat
* 4 6x8 pioneer door speakers
* Cobra radar detector mounted customly on dash
EXTERIOR:
* front clear corners
* custom front skid plate
* modified front bumper
* 2 hella lights mounted in grill
* 4 Wheel Parts Wholesaler front window decal
FUTURE MODS:
* superchip?
* Rancho 4 inch lift
* PIAA superwhite bulbs
Pictures at:
www.my-f150.com/sboarder
THANKS
------------------
RED 97 F150 4x4 ORP
MODS:
ENGINE:
* Velocity tube w/ K&N filter
* A/C Delco 9mm wires and plugs
* RPM single modified exhuast
SUSPENSION:
* Rancho RS5000 shocks
* cranked torsion bars
WHEELS&TIRES:
* American Racing 16x8 Nitro Wheels
* 33/11.5 Mickey Thompson MTX Baja Radials
INTERIOR:
* Panasonic 40x4 flip down cd headset
* Pheonix Gold 300 watt amp
* 2 10" JBL's in custom made box under rear seat
* 4 6x8 pioneer door speakers
* Cobra radar detector mounted customly on dash
EXTERIOR:
* front clear corners
* custom front skid plate
* modified front bumper
* 2 hella lights mounted in grill
* 4 Wheel Parts Wholesaler front window decal
FUTURE MODS:
* superchip?
* Rancho 4 inch lift
* PIAA superwhite bulbs
Pictures at:
www.my-f150.com/sboarder
#2
Well rotors and pads are an easy job. but unless you are doing hard & heavy stopping, I wouldn't use ceramic pads. The pad is a harder material than the rotor. Pads are cheaper than rotors.
------------------
SEE YA, DOINIT 2001 F-150 4X2 SuperCrew XLT, Exterior Island Blue, Interior Medium Parchment, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Sliding Rear Window, Remote Entry, 6-Disc CD Changer, Captains Chairs, Towing Package
------------------
SEE YA, DOINIT 2001 F-150 4X2 SuperCrew XLT, Exterior Island Blue, Interior Medium Parchment, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Sliding Rear Window, Remote Entry, 6-Disc CD Changer, Captains Chairs, Towing Package
#3
When I do it again, I'll get the cheaper pads too. I put on the lifetime pads and new rotors at the same time, and they really start squealing every few days. Just have to wash them out all the time. The calipers just have a couple bolts in them. The rotors may have some lug clips on them. Mine didn't but the rotor was rusted to the hub. It looks like one piece if your rotor isn't loose when you take the wheel/caliper off. I just had to keep using bigger hammers on the backside until it came off. By then it was so dinged up I had to replace them too (they were already too thin to turn anyway). Just take it apart and see if it will come off. I think I paid about $30 apiece for new rotors, but make sure you put some anti-seize around the hub when you put new rotors on (if you even need new rotors). There's several people on here who have changed them, some just fall off and some end up taking the whole thing apart to have the rotor pressed off. Good luck and ask again if you need more help
------------------
'97 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4X4
------------------
'97 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4X4
- White/Silver, 4.6L, Auto.,Open 3:55
- Tinted Windows/Bedmat/Toolbox/Lund Bug Deflector/Ventvisors/Extra Horns
- 265/75/16 BFGoodrich AT's on polished 16x8 AR-136's
- Cat-back Dual Exhaust (Straight pipes with big chrome tips)
- Black Polar Bear Grille Guard
- Cranked Torsion Bars for 1" Lift
#4
Fronts are a piece of cake! I haven't had to do the backs yet, so I couldn't tell ya about them. The hardest part was getting the bolts loose! You'll neet a 3/8" rachet and probably a big hammer to get the bolts loose! After that, take out the old pads, compress the cylinders with a "c"-clamp and slap in the new pads. Took me about 30 min for each wheel. good luck!
#5
Anything concerning the ABS? I've been told never to crank the cylinder back in w/o opening the caliper bleeder screw on ABS vehicles. The fluid moving backwards through the system is susposed to be bad on the ABS valves. Anyone? I've also notied the fluid in the master cylinder is getting pretty greyish/black. Seems a little soon for that at 13k miles. How does everyone else's fluid look?
------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.
1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17
My Home Page
------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.
1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17
My Home Page