After I replaced the front brakes on my truck, i finally got to bleed my brakes, because before the brake job the pedal was spongy. Now i bled them, went around to all 4 tires and had my friend in the car press the pedal...open the screw...close screw, depress pedal and repeated it about 3 or 4 times. I just started at the front drivers side and went around to the other 3 doing the same thing. I have done this whole thing 2 times already and the pedal is not any less spongy than before. Am i doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated.

Brian

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98 F150 XLT Supercab 4X4
4.6L V8 3.55LS
Tonno Cover, Brush Guard, Dukes of Hazzard Dixie Horn, 2 150 watt KC Daylighters, Cobra CB Radio, BF Goodrich All Terrains 265/75/16
http://hometown.aol.com/barto24/brianstruck.html
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2000 Excursion Limited 4X4, Black, V-10, 3.73 LS, Tow Mirrors

 

One thing else that is very important to check is the front wheel bearing adjustment. If the bearings are too loose you can experience a spongy pedal, this happened to me on my '92 Bronco after a brake job at a local Ford Dealer.

Also Bleed the ABS accumulator, I think you do that First.

Good Luck

Best Regards

Michael

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2000 Expedition XLT, 4X4, 4.6, 3.55
C & C Group
K&N air filter
WeatherTech Vent Shades
Hellwig Sport Tech Anti-Sway Bar
Ford Dual Media AM/FM/Cassette/CD

1995 F150 XL, long bed, 4.9, 5 speed O/D, 4X2
Pioneer DEH-P4100 Head Unit

[This message has been edited by PumperMike (edited 04-26-2001).]

 

Thanks for your help guys, Im gonna try it one more time in that order at home, if it doesent work, one of my buddies works at a shop, ill call him and ask him if he can take a look at it and maybe power bleed it. Thanks again

Brian

 

Brian.
The sequence is right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. There's also a way to bleed the Master Cylinder but you'll have to look in a service manual for procedures.
If all that fails take it in to a shop and have it power-bled, it takes all the air bubbles out and replaces all the fluid at the same time.

[This message has been edited by Indyfan (edited 04-26-2001).]

 

dont need no stickin power bleeder heres a quick and easy way to get air out of the system barto get a jar and put some brake fluid in 1/3 filled now found some vaccum tubing that will fit over the bleeder screw and put the tube in the jar crack open the screw and pump the brake pedal slowly and watch the air bubbles come to the top in the jar wait until the fluid starts filling up the jar then close the bleeder screw then go on to the next wheel until all the air is out of the system no more spongy pedal always check the master cylinder after each wheel that has been bleed dont let the m/c go dry

[This message has been edited by fordtec2001 (edited 05-10-2001).]

 

Thanks Fordtec i get out of school next week so i will have time to do it then. Im getting sick of the spongy pedal, hopefully this will fix it.

Brian

 

Thank you very much for that bleeding the brakes idea. I will let you know how I fair with it. sincerely skicove1

 

if you do as fordtech said, use clear tubing!!! also remember that the ABS module needs to be cycled to really do a good job to get all the air out. Theres no bleeder valve on these, (at least 04 & up) so a dealer has to do this, but i wouldnt' worry about it yet. And be sure to have couple extra bottles of fluid!!! if you run the master cyl dry as fordtech said, your dead! and have to start all over again. My 2 cents. Also assuming you have power brakes, its best to have the engine idling. I've even put a 2 x 4 and another board across the front of the seat and use the electric seat adjuster to apply pressure to the pedal, if by your self, which is kind of hard to do otherwise. Soon as u crack the valve, you'll prob. hear the improvised block hit the floorboard. Sometimes it does take a while to get all the air out. rossford

 

ok to banish any confusion ,well for me any way being a woman i didnt know. i TEXT my brother IN COLO.and asked HIM WHICH LEFT REAR? THE LR WHEN YOU SIT IN TRUCK OR IF YOUR STRANDING LOOKING AT TRUCK? HE SAID IF YOUR STANDING LOOKING AT FRONT OF TRUCK. YOU START AT FARTHEST BRK.LINE FROM MC SO THATS LEFT REAR THEN RIGHT REAR THEN LEFT FRONT TO TIGHT FRONT.....THANK YOU DANNY..WELL IT WORKED FOR ME I DID IT ! thank you danny and the smart ford tech 2001.. sincerely skicove





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skicove1...this is not to be a smart @$$ or anything else, but just a tip to help you understand the question you ask. Surprisingly, quite a few "guys" on here get that wrong all the time. A reminder from time to time is not such a bad thing!

With anything that moves; truck, car, boat, airplane, motorcycle, 18 wheeler, etc, EVERYTHING pertaining to that vessel is from the DRIVERS POINT OF VIEW. So the drivers side is on the left, passenger is on the right, etc, etc.

With that in mind, bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. This is beginning with the brake caliper furthurest away from the master cylinder and working closer.

 

Thank you for that tip I will remember that. Also thank you for letting me know my gender has nothing to do with not understanding which left i was to start withLOL that's why I called my brother so I wouldn't look silly asking the question. You have my respect Galaxy. sincerely skicove1

 

I'm not a professional mechanic but I have bled dozens of brakes on cars, trucks and motorcycles over the years.

By far the easiest method is to gravity bleed them. Just fill the MC and crack the bleeder valve on all four calipers then go have a beverage. Come back in an hour and tighten the bleeder valves.

Done.

Just make sure the MC doesn't run dry or you will have to start over like was mentioned earlier.