I have a 99 F150 4x4 ORP. I have to replace the front rotors every 5k miles due to warpage. What is a good brake pad/rotor combo that you have tried that gives you a long time between changes?

 

I had basically the same problem with my 99 until I went with OEM Brembos and EBC pads from Tirerack.com So far I have put over 10k on them and they are great.

 

Washout if you are having to replace your rotors every 5k due to warpage you need to ease off the brakes there is no reason for your rotors to warp that quickly unless you are basically abusing your brakes in which case even a better rotor is not going to hold up any better to that kind of abuse. Not trying to rag on you but dude you need to ease up on those brakes. Take your foot off the gas a little earlier intstead of waintg until the last minute to brake. secondly warped rotors can also be casued by over torqueing lug nuts and torqing in the wrong sequence If you do not have etorque wrench for tightening your lugs i suggest you get one. I have a buddy who has the same problem and it is not casued by bad rotors it is his driving style. Anyway if you do want something better check into the Brembo replacments becasue I think getting a nice set of slotted rotors may be a waste of money for you becasue you will destroy them just as easily. However if you want go to www.truckperformance.com and look fro some Powerslot rotors for your truck they are less in price than the ones at Tire rack then go to www.tirerack.com and get a set of the HAWK pads.

Richard D.

While your here check out my gallery:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

To his credit, certain pad/rotor combos do not work well together.

Bendix Titanium are reasonably priced and wor great with OEM type rotors. A friend recommended Napa United rotors for about $65ea that will work well with the Cermix pads I have.

 

Thanks for your info. Richard, I will try to ease off more than I already do. I do brake early and am very gentle on the brakes. I have talked with several other owners that have the same problem. I even spoke with the local Ford Dealership. The guys in the parts dept, who also own F-150's, say that they have the same problem. They were also looking for a good combo solution.

I always use a torque wrench on the lugnuts, and tighten in the star pattern. Doesn't everyone?

 

washout, does anyone else do work on your truck that requires the tires to be removed?

I am with Richard on this one, 99% of shops have no clue how to properly "torque" lug nuts! For instance the shop where I bought my tires promissed me that they use a torque wrench. Then i went back and watched them put my rims back on. The knuckle head used a worhtless "Torque stick" to bury one bolt!! he didn't even finger tighten them all all the way down first! Then he did the star pattern then he got a torque wrench out and torqued them in a row!!! I stopped him right quick and told him he was about to buy me new rotors!! Then I showed him how to do it the right way! This is not the only place that I have seen this done! (The dealership for instance)

 

how about using the impact wrench? ive caught a bastard doin that to me once. i wanted to kick him away from my truck.

 

I've seen some of the knuckleheads that you are talking about. For that reason, I do all the brake/rotor/pads, tire replacements. I finger tighten them, then torque to a lower amount (star pattern), then torque to spec (star pattern). Then I lower the truck and recheck. Most of my driving is in the city. A lot of stop and go. Not much hwy driving.

I can't be the only one that keeps getting warped rotors. Am I?

How many miles do you get before resurfacing your rotors?

 

Washout sorry if I sounded rude that was not my intention I was simply trying to help you from destroying those rotors so quickly I mean I know the stock rotors are failry crappy but 5k simly is something that is ridiculous and it is usaully one of two things that cause them to warp that fast both of which i mentioned to you. Again sorry if i appeared rude that was and never is my intent with anyone unless of course it is needed.

Richard D.

 

I didn't think you were rude at all. I appreciate your comment. Sometimes we need hard ears to hear. LOL.

 

Washout, I too have had many problems with my stock rotors. I don't know if 5k is the magic number but it wasn't much over that when I first had problems.

3/36k later I have had my front rotors turned twice and replaced 4 times. I have also had my rear rotors turn and replaced once each! (All under warranty) Oh and the calipers have been checked, double checked greased, bled, flushed etc...

Now I have EBC 6000 trk/suv pads with OEM Brembos for over 10k so far so good!

We will see what the summer brings with some light towing.

 

You know it must be something with the way the rotors are made bad furnaceing or pouring batch to batch. This may sound wild but I recently replaced my rotors at 70k miles they had only been turned one time previously and they really werent in that bad a shape but my pads were gone and i was just starting to get some wobble in the steering wheel so I decided that instead of buying regular replacemnts I would just upgrade to the Powerslot Rotors which is what I did. But like i said I did get 70k miles out of my original rotors.

Richard D.

While your here check out my gallery:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

Thanks guys! I just had my rotors resurfaced and will post again when they need correcting... again. I would like to hear back from you HCMQ on how your new combo is working out. 10k sounds good so far.

Thanks all.

 

I see this same statement on so many boards....

Gents; torquing the wheel in any pattern, using an impact gun, a torque socket, or a star wrench has NOTHING to do with warping rotors. No way, no how, not now, not ever.

The problems arising from improperly seated wheels can be stripped studs, stripped nuts, wheel damage etc. yes.

Rotor damage is a result of HEAT or other BRAKE related issues.

Now I know there'll be some who say I'm full of it, they know of .....or talked to someone who.....heard from a friend.... but when you get right to the meat of the matter the vehicle was not only "not properly torqued" but at the time they did it they put on new pads, rotors or whatever. This is more likely where the root of the problem came from. Improper bedding of the new pads, seasoning of the new rotors, not lubing guide pins, sticking calipers, improperly bled calipoers and such. NOT how the wheel was tightened.

Just look at your rotor some time and see if you can figure out how an iron mass a long distance from the strud pattern can be effected by the torque on a nut. The hub flang with the stud in it is nealry 5/8" solid and doesn't deflect. It's simply sandwhiched there anyhow.

 

Just a reminder for some people with warped rotors:

Do not wash your truck, specifically the wheels, right after a drive. Let the brakes cool down.