ABS Light
#46
I ordered the sensor and got it in the mail. I measured the resistance on the part before I put it in. I got about 1k-ohm out of it. I figured it was within specs since the sensor is supposed to have between 800ohm-3.5kohm. I put the sensor into the truck and drove it around the block. The ABS light came back on. I then proceeded to check the OR/BK wire and didn't get any flashes out of the ABS light when I turned on the switch. I also have a Ford Service Manual CD for my truck and it said if I don't have any flashes, it could be my Anti-Lock Brake Control Module. The CD says that if I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND and the voltage is less than 10V, that I should repair the 601 Circuit. What is the 601 Circuit? It also says if the voltage is greater than 10V to replace the Anti-Lock Control Module. When I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND, I get around 2.0V. Is this an ok reading or do I need to repair the circuit?
#47
ABS light OFF!
Man, you guys rock!
My ABS light has been on for about 20,000+ now. It started off intermittent, but eventually stayed on all the time.
I read this thread the other day and thought I'd give the rear differential sensor a shot. Stopped by my local Ford dealer at lunch today and picked up a new one for $22.88. Just popped it in when I got home, and the problem is gone! The connector was a pain in the neck to get back on, but I got the job done.
The ABS light is now OFF. Thanks guys!!!
1999 F-150 XLT 2wd
85,000 miles
My ABS light has been on for about 20,000+ now. It started off intermittent, but eventually stayed on all the time.
I read this thread the other day and thought I'd give the rear differential sensor a shot. Stopped by my local Ford dealer at lunch today and picked up a new one for $22.88. Just popped it in when I got home, and the problem is gone! The connector was a pain in the neck to get back on, but I got the job done.
The ABS light is now OFF. Thanks guys!!!
1999 F-150 XLT 2wd
85,000 miles
#48
There is a rubber gasket/sealer on the plug/connector end of the sensor. The original one may stick to the connector when you pull the plug...then when you try to put the connector on the new sensor, it doesn't want to go one because the new sensor has already has a gasket on it... That is probably why Hazzard had a hard time putting the connector back on ...
I replaced a sensor a couple of weeks ago and still get a intermittent ABS light on and off... I am now looking into other possibilities ...u
I replaced a sensor a couple of weeks ago and still get a intermittent ABS light on and off... I am now looking into other possibilities ...u
#49
Originally posted by cdawley
I ordered the sensor and got it in the mail. I measured the resistance on the part before I put it in. I got about 1k-ohm out of it. I figured it was within specs since the sensor is supposed to have between 800ohm-3.5kohm. I put the sensor into the truck and drove it around the block. The ABS light came back on. I then proceeded to check the OR/BK wire and didn't get any flashes out of the ABS light when I turned on the switch. I also have a Ford Service Manual CD for my truck and it said if I don't have any flashes, it could be my Anti-Lock Brake Control Module. The CD says that if I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND and the voltage is less than 10V, that I should repair the 601 Circuit. What is the 601 Circuit? It also says if the voltage is greater than 10V to replace the Anti-Lock Control Module. When I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND, I get around 2.0V. Is this an ok reading or do I need to repair the circuit?
I ordered the sensor and got it in the mail. I measured the resistance on the part before I put it in. I got about 1k-ohm out of it. I figured it was within specs since the sensor is supposed to have between 800ohm-3.5kohm. I put the sensor into the truck and drove it around the block. The ABS light came back on. I then proceeded to check the OR/BK wire and didn't get any flashes out of the ABS light when I turned on the switch. I also have a Ford Service Manual CD for my truck and it said if I don't have any flashes, it could be my Anti-Lock Brake Control Module. The CD says that if I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND and the voltage is less than 10V, that I should repair the 601 Circuit. What is the 601 Circuit? It also says if the voltage is greater than 10V to replace the Anti-Lock Control Module. When I measure the voltage between the LB/PK and GND, I get around 2.0V. Is this an ok reading or do I need to repair the circuit?
Hope this helps,
PeteC
#50
#51
I am new to this board.
Want to say thank you to all who contributed to this thread.
My ABS light has been on for about a year and I've been afraid to to into a dealer to have it checked fearing that I would be turned upside down and shaken until all of my spare change was gone.
I read about the likely culprit and so I went to Ford and got the Rear Differential Sensor for 30.00. (I know, the local parts store had it for 8.00 but I didn't wan't to take a chance).
Anyway, it worked.
Thanks a lot!
Want to say thank you to all who contributed to this thread.
My ABS light has been on for about a year and I've been afraid to to into a dealer to have it checked fearing that I would be turned upside down and shaken until all of my spare change was gone.
I read about the likely culprit and so I went to Ford and got the Rear Differential Sensor for 30.00. (I know, the local parts store had it for 8.00 but I didn't wan't to take a chance).
Anyway, it worked.
Thanks a lot!
#52
My brake light and abs light started coming on together after 20 or 30 miles of driving. This problem seemed to start at the same time I noticed a vibration in the drive train. Found a bad u joint at the pinion shaft. Replaced all three u joints and the carrier bearing (two piece drive shaft). Also found bad wheel bearing seal in right rear (full floating axel). Replaced seals on both sides, cleaned up oil soaked shoe on right side but did not replace.
Also changed my diff back to 4.10 since I had the gears given to me by the previous owner, he put 3.55 ratio in since he ran empty a lot. Everything look ok in the diff.
I'm still having the same problem. After driving about 20 miles (or warming up?) my brake light and abs come on at the same time. Shutting the engine off resets everything but the lights then come on much sooner (usally the next stop). Vaccum seems to be ok but I'm going to replace the booster and master cyl (they have 100k on them anyway) and see what happens.
I'll repost after this but if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it.
thanks
Also changed my diff back to 4.10 since I had the gears given to me by the previous owner, he put 3.55 ratio in since he ran empty a lot. Everything look ok in the diff.
I'm still having the same problem. After driving about 20 miles (or warming up?) my brake light and abs come on at the same time. Shutting the engine off resets everything but the lights then come on much sooner (usally the next stop). Vaccum seems to be ok but I'm going to replace the booster and master cyl (they have 100k on them anyway) and see what happens.
I'll repost after this but if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it.
thanks
#53
Finally found the tech information I needed at autozone.com .... They list all trouble codes and trouble shooting flow charts, diagrams, etc for RABS systems.
That saved the day for me!!! My problem was a code 4. After eliminating the brake light circuts as a problem I focused on the HC unit. I was about 90% sure that I knew about 30% of what I was doing so I replaced the Hydrualic control unit (bought at AutoZone of course).
Bingo, my troubles went away. Thanks AutoZone!!
That saved the day for me!!! My problem was a code 4. After eliminating the brake light circuts as a problem I focused on the HC unit. I was about 90% sure that I knew about 30% of what I was doing so I replaced the Hydrualic control unit (bought at AutoZone of course).
Bingo, my troubles went away. Thanks AutoZone!!
Last edited by bluefishbeagle; 01-11-2005 at 08:04 PM.
#54
Originally posted by bluefishbeagle
Finally found the tech information I needed at autozone.com .... They list all trouble codes and trouble shooting flow charts, diagrams, etc for RABS systems.
<snip>
Bingo, my troubles went away. Thanks AutoZone!!
Finally found the tech information I needed at autozone.com .... They list all trouble codes and trouble shooting flow charts, diagrams, etc for RABS systems.
<snip>
Bingo, my troubles went away. Thanks AutoZone!!
#55
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#60
ABS light
Yo, RHood. Agree the website is a BIG PLUS for F150 owners. Glad you got your ABS problem resolved. I just turned in my SCrew on a 2006 Ford Escape XLT 4X4. The ABS light is still on (for almost two years) - - brings a whole new meaning to procrastinating. The dealer will deal with it before he resells the truck. Am now looking for a website for Ford Escape. Happy motoring!! Cheers, Johnny Canuck.