Would 35" tires fit without any rubbing on a 2000 f150 w/ offroad kit? I am also thinking of a body lift, but they wont be installed at the same time...would 35"s be fine without the lift?

 

I have seen it, but don't know if they will rub or not. The biggest factors are going to be wheel size (width to be specific, with probably 8" being about the max) and offset. Definately will require cranking the torsion bars up all the way, but if you're asking these questions you should already have that done. In my extremely humble "opinion", 35"s are waaaaayyyy too much tire, appearance wise only, for a non-lifted F-150. Doesn't look right. But like I said, my opinion. Oh, FWIW, trucks with off-road packages don't sit any higher than any other 4X4 F-150. If it looks higher because you parked next to one, it's all because of the taller tires that come on the truck.

 

I have an 01' F150 screw, and there is no way the 315/70/17 BFG's would have fit without the PA 3" lift I put on it.

 

Galaxy do you know what the offroad package is? I think it is the tires, i am going to check in a bit. I am not the first owner, so i dont know what, if any work has been done on it. I am somewhat new to truck maintenance. Can you direct me to a site that explains how to crank the torsion bars? And, what will cranking the torsion bars accomplish? Will it affect performance at all?

 

The offroad package is 265/70/17 tires on 17" aluminum wheels, 3.73 gears, LS rear diff, and finally STICKERS!!!!

Fitting 315s on your truck would only work if you use the stock wheels. This will cause the tires to rub the frame at full lock since the stock tires are too narrow for tires that wide. The only thing that will fix that will be wider wheels but that will cause rubbing elsewhere without a body lift. The minimum wheel width you'll want to run is an 8" wheel. When I ran 315s on my truck with 10" wheels I had to crank my torsion bars and trim the flares to get them to stop rubbing. When I went to 8" wheels I would have had to do one or the other but not both. Wait until you have the extra $150 for a body lift before you put the tires on.

To crank your torsion bars jack up the truck by the front axle crossmember and place jackstands under it. Then follow the torsion bars back to the crossmember where you will see 2 bolts. To raise the torsion bars you will tighten these bolts. The don't need to be equal due to different spring rates of each torsion bar made. Just tighten it some and then lower the truck to check to see if you need more or less. Cranking them simply lowers the ride position of the suspension in its travel path. This will lead to less droop and more compression. You won't ever see this since the Ford IFS doesn't really flex all that much to begin with. You will also feel a stiffer ride going down the road since you're basically increasing the spring rate of the torsion bars (similar to putting stiffer coils in a 2wd). Depending on how much you crank your torsion bars up you may want to get an alignment done on it. Less than 1" you're probably still ok, any more than that and I'd get one done.


Oh, one other thing. If you do 315s get some 4.56 gears done at the same time. I ran the combo you're looking at (3.55 gears and 35s) for 1.5 years and it cost me a $1700 tranny rebuild and has weakend the rebuild (check the signature).