Well thinking the rear brakes were bad i checked them and they are still 75-80% there??? 99,550 miles. Well i check the fronts and they are wearing but good but rotors are warped. I could feel them pulsating. Removed wheels and i had to use a 20# sledge hammer to literately break them off the truck (AGAIN) had to do the same thing at 55,000. I used never seize then but to no avail. I broke the handle of the sledge with the final blow and the rotor busted and fell right off. This is a real piece of engineering and i was just wondering if this is true for the newer 98-03 F150's???. But it is done once again and man do i have excellent brakes at least for a while... total cost was 95.40 dollars, including brakes, rotors (2), brake clean and a can of seafoam... not bad DIY it pays...

my arms are killing me, booo hooo Waaa

 

My 99 was the same way. Had a heck of a time getting the front rotors off at 38k miles. Those Autozone rotors didn't last a year, though so I changed them about 20k miles later. Again, a battle getting them off.

 

If your only paying $95.00 for front brakes, rotors and chemicals your obviously not using high quality parts. Spend a little bit more for the Motorcraft rotors and pads and see what a difference they make. It is a common problem for the F-150's rotors to rust onto the hub. Use a BIG rubber mallet to get them off and some anit-sieze before they go back on. :o

 

Bro just a little info for you. I used "quality" rotors and brakes at the last brake change. They had to be pounded off with a sledge not no wimpy RUBBER hammer are you kidding me. It took all i had to remove them with a 20# sledge let alone a rubber hammer. You my friend must have never done your front brakes yet and yes i did use never seize at the last change, hell i painted it on everywhere and to no avail. I used 95 dollar a piece rotors and 85 dollar brakes, they lasted 39,000 miles pads were good rotors were warped for the last 10,000 miles i could feel the pulse at times that long ago. This time i used just regular stuff and will see just how much less quality they are in the long run. I do thank you for your input but dude a rubber hammer NOT

 

If the total cost for the brake job was $95 including two new rotors, the components used were obviously below average at best. Even "Just Brakes" charges $95 for a sorry brake job with crappy pads without new rotors. And its a rubber "mallet", not a rubber hammer. Both exist. Try the "rubber mallet", if you want your rotors to last more than one brake job. Metal on metal is usually not good. Let us know what brake setup you decide to purchase next time. Maybe you can get it under $50 this time.

 

Look aholemg175150; 2 new rotors 32.00 each, pads 20.00 bucks= 84.00 bucks. Can of whip *** for you would be free! and priceless!!!. I don't do crappy work. i do it myself so i save big bucks. I have as good of brakes as i had when i bought the truck new in 96 maybe even better. Check the forums here and see how many F-150's go more than one time per brake change with the same rotors. If you would have read my post properly you would have seen that the ones on there were "warped" therefore rendering them useless. I will pay you large copious amounts of money if you can remove a rusted front rotor with a rubber anything (hammer, mallet). I will let you know when i do my next brake job because i will shove them up your wise *** biatch. ps. That's a promise boy.

I also see you are an engineer that explains everything,

 

You're one bad dude aren't you! Another CYBER **** talker huh? Bet that makes you feel good about yourself, being that you're a tight-*** with your money and all. I take it you live alone, or with a few animals at best. Let me know if you take a trip to New Mexico. We'll see who goes home with "cheap ***" brake parts up their ***. So do you use paper or plastic to carry your auto parts home? I like the way you end you sentences with commas, Mr. Supervisor!

 

woa settle down fellas!!

did you use high temp anti sieze? I have anti sieze on my for over 70k and is still working great (I check every time I rotate the tires)

the reason you needed a 20lb sledge is that you hit the rotors the wrong way. next time use a large ball peen hammer or a 5lb small sledge and hit the rotor TOWARDS the truck ONLY! Once you hit it from behind it is stuck until you break it off.

try the oem brembo's next time for $44 each from tirerack. also rotate your own tires so your rotors are less likely to warp.

 

I always use paper for my auto parts plastic is a environmental issue with me. Bro not to get off on the wrong foot here. All i was stating was i used quality brake parts at my last brake change and they did not do the job they should have. I will be the bigger man here and apologize for my comments in my last reply to you.
I am not tight with my money and i drive 55 miles a day each way to work so brakes are needed more often than some other drivers. I don't have but one animal, its a dog and i have been happily married for 28+ years. Your engineering knowledge is a far sight better than your judge of people. As for your invite to come to New Mexico i will be in Albuquerque on august 14th. its a Saturday if this reply don't do much for you we can meet then and resolve any issues in person. I will be at the Randy Travis show at the Route 66 Casino.

 

hcmq: I did use anti sieze but it was not high temp. I did not know about the hi temp stuff. I will get some and apply it thank you for that. I had high end brake rotors on last time 95.00 dollars each and they lasted just about as long as the oem rotors.
I used a hand held 5 lb. sledge and did hit them from the front as you stated. Then went to the BFH. I did not ever hit them from the rear. they were just rusted on due to salt,snow,rain etc.. winter is hell here every year. I do rotate my tires every 7000 miles. Its just a poor design by ford. Any ways thank for your response it was very positive and not demeaning and i thank a brother F-150 member for your help.

 

buckdropper

No hard feelings. I just don't like when people give others negative or sarcastic replies. After all they didn't have to reply in the first place. I drive about 90 miles one way to work every day and about 5 miles is up and down steep curvy road. Thus, I know what it is like to have to replace brakes more often. I actually purchased new brake parts last night for my next brake job. Brembo rotors and Satisfied Pro ceramic pads. Let's see how they work out. If it's still not cool, Albuquerque's fine with me.

 

I understand buckdropper's position. knows hoe lond EOM brake equipment lasts and performs. He knows how long suposed high quality euipment lasts and performs, now time to try the cheap stuff. If there is no noticable difference to him between the three, might as well go with the cheapest.

BTW, didn't the high quality stuff have warranties? I've gotten a few sets of the same pads replaced for free on other vehicles. Like you, I tried a few different ranges of equipment and all performed similarily. I had to replace the pads every 20k miles, but they were mid-grade quaility with lifetime warranty.

 

I almost always do all my own brakes and have forever. I have on a few occasions had to got to a shop or brake shop such as Midas. I have used top dollar and and econo parts and in the end they all last on average about the same. Hell, all rotos are made in the same China plant anyway. . The biggest differents I ever saw was with vented and or cross drilled, but have had them go fast too. The biggest factor is enviroment and driving habits. The majority of cars I own go around 50k for brakes. I drive very little on back roads and dont do much 4x4 ing. I am constintly power washing my vehicles to clean, coin op, and check for binding at tire rotation which I try to do myself.
Now buckdropper here does some 4x4ing, from what I have seen in pics ventureing down them dirt roads more, thus adding more contaminents to the pads and reducing life and generating more heat when in use. Also, this enviroemnt can promote rust, causing stuck rotors, and binding calipers, futher increasing heat, which warps rotors.
Guess all I am saying is there are so many factors that come into play and quality is just one factor, and not of which effects brake longevity very much.
The main cause of brake heating is a gas build up between you pad and rotor. If calipers bind or long extended braking occurs, the gas becames super heated and fries rotors, this gas is what causes brake fade on hard repeated braking. So vented rotors will perform and in most cases last longer, unless you are deep up to your axles in mud ripping your valve stems off on rocks, contaminating the crap out of your pads, inwhich case they last as long as any other rotor if not less.

Just my couple pennies worth on this.

OH, and you have a great Memorial weekend Dropper.

Maybe you and mg could be the opening act for Randy, call it the country smack down.
And if that doesnt do it, get out that picnic table center piece and shoot his rotors off from a mile away.


Sled...

 

LMFAO, nice response Sled. I do alot of mountain driving and some well okay alot of 4x4ing and i will see just how long the cheap stuff lasts, Front brakes are a 10 minute a side job when one can remove the rotors without having to call in BFH and the picnic table decoration is a good idea. We could also do the opening for Randy but i think we could just settle it with a cold one. Okay 2 cold ones. I hope your holiday was a great one to bro.

 

Now that all the bitchin' and name callin' is over.... I was wandering if any of you had suggestions on brands of quality rotors, calipers and pads?