Repacking wheel bearings
#2
2 wheel drive?
4 wheel drive?
On 2 WD the a new hub comes with the rotor, no?
I would repack the bearings since it's already apart. No sense in tearing it all apart later to do the bearings.
On 4x4's the rotor comes off seperate, but I'd still do the bearings while it's apart. Doesn't take that long and you'll have piece of mind.
Just be sure to get the bearings tightened properly. Too tight and they'll over heat.
4 wheel drive?
On 2 WD the a new hub comes with the rotor, no?
I would repack the bearings since it's already apart. No sense in tearing it all apart later to do the bearings.
On 4x4's the rotor comes off seperate, but I'd still do the bearings while it's apart. Doesn't take that long and you'll have piece of mind.
Just be sure to get the bearings tightened properly. Too tight and they'll over heat.
#3
#6
It's not necessary, but with the one piece rotor and hub assembly for the 4x2 you might as well repack them. When you remove the spindle nut to remove the rotor you'll have to remove the bearing too. They are not sealed like the 4x4's. The bearing slides on the spindle and the rotor/hub slides over the bearing (the race is inside the hub). You can pick up a generic bearing packing assembly for a couple of bucks. After that all you need is a grease gun for zerk fittings ($15) and a tube of bearing grease ($5) and you're in business. It's really easy and doesn't take very long (although it is very messy). It's better than paying a mechanic $70 an hour to do it. I went ahead and spent an extra $50 and bought new bearings and grease seals because I had to get new rotors anyway. My '97 has 115k miles so it was worth it. I got the mid-grade rotor/hubs from NAPA and the races were already pressed into the hub assemblies, which made it easy to do in my driveway.
#7