Rotor recommendations?
#1
Rotor recommendations?
What kind of rotors are yall running on your trucks and would you recommend them?
I'm looking to replace my stockers with Brembo slotted rotors. Should I go with ceramic pads as well?
Will I see a definitive performance gain over stockers?
Thanks.
I'm looking to replace my stockers with Brembo slotted rotors. Should I go with ceramic pads as well?
Will I see a definitive performance gain over stockers?
Thanks.
#4
#5
Sarah, no I never did find out, I was using the pads they recommended I use, and I dont do any racing/hard towing, etc. that would cause premature damage. I still have one of the warped sets on my truck right now. Replacing it in a few weeks when I do my major truck project. Probably putting on EBC's but haven't decided for sure yet.
By the way, I see you are in Denver, you should check out www.rmftc.com
By the way, I see you are in Denver, you should check out www.rmftc.com
#6
I have PowerSlot rotors and Hawk HPS pads on my F150, and I put PowerSlot rotors on my Dad's F350.
I recommend the PowerSlots
They don't experience brake fade as quickly as the stock rotors, and they haven't warped on me either.
I also found the the EBC pads don't put off nearly the amount of dust as the Hawks do.
I recommend the PowerSlots
They don't experience brake fade as quickly as the stock rotors, and they haven't warped on me either.
I also found the the EBC pads don't put off nearly the amount of dust as the Hawks do.
Last edited by 36fan; 08-14-2004 at 12:09 AM.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I am with the everyone else on this one EBC. I have there slotted/dimpled with the 6000 series pads and love them. The pedal feel is miles above stock, they don't fade, they look good and THEY DON"T THROW DUST. I now can go for several weeks and the wheels still shine. The dust that they do put off is very light and only a small layer seems to stick. I have had two sets of stock, Raybestos Premiun ceramic and the EBC. The EBC are the best by far.
Joe
Joe
#12
#14
i would never get x-drilled rotors ever again. they will crack from the holes to the outer edge.
this is coppied from another web site
We also do not recommend cross-drilled and slotted brake rotors. There are a number of reasons for this recommendation. First, cross-drilling is not necessary with today's carbon metallic pads. Older, organic pads had a tendency to out-gas if they got hot. The adhesives that hold the pad together and to the backing plate would actually boil off under heavy braking. The gas created from this process would then get trapped between the pad and the rotor surface. This layer of gas SIGNIFICANTLY reduces stopping ability. This condition is known as "Green-Fade." Cross-drilling was done to the rotor surface to allow the gas to escape through the holes.
Secondly almost all cross-drilled rotors use the Kelsey Hayes brake rotors because of the pattern of the vanes inside the rotors. The vanes inside the Kelsey Hayes rotors are directional and therefore make it easier to cross-drill them. These rotors are prone to warping and cracking in their unmodified, uncross-drilled state. So in essence you're paying extra money for a rotor that has been proven to be unreliable.
Third, cross-drilling a rotor creates stress fractures in the surface of the rotor. Even if the rotor's cross-drilled holes are stress relieved a rotor is SIGNIFICANTLY more apt to crack when it is cross-drilled.
this is coppied from another web site
We also do not recommend cross-drilled and slotted brake rotors. There are a number of reasons for this recommendation. First, cross-drilling is not necessary with today's carbon metallic pads. Older, organic pads had a tendency to out-gas if they got hot. The adhesives that hold the pad together and to the backing plate would actually boil off under heavy braking. The gas created from this process would then get trapped between the pad and the rotor surface. This layer of gas SIGNIFICANTLY reduces stopping ability. This condition is known as "Green-Fade." Cross-drilling was done to the rotor surface to allow the gas to escape through the holes.
Secondly almost all cross-drilled rotors use the Kelsey Hayes brake rotors because of the pattern of the vanes inside the rotors. The vanes inside the Kelsey Hayes rotors are directional and therefore make it easier to cross-drill them. These rotors are prone to warping and cracking in their unmodified, uncross-drilled state. So in essence you're paying extra money for a rotor that has been proven to be unreliable.
Third, cross-drilling a rotor creates stress fractures in the surface of the rotor. Even if the rotor's cross-drilled holes are stress relieved a rotor is SIGNIFICANTLY more apt to crack when it is cross-drilled.
#15
A differing opinion:
On the cross drilled subject. I've read all the different comments on the pros and cons of doing this. A lot of what is written is pretty compelling, in fact I came very close to buying slotted only rotors this last go round. Having said that I can only speak from my own experience. This is now the 4th vehicle I have put them on and I've had no problem with them. One of my previous vehicles was a rotor eating beast. It was a 95 Town Car. The only thing that stopped me from selling this rotor warping vehicle was a set of cross drilled rotors. Put em' on problem was gone. This was after 4 sets of premium rotors on the front and 3 on the rear and several rotor machinings to go along with these. Always used premium pads and either rebuilt or remanufactured calipers with each brake job. It didn't go through pads particularly quickly it just warped rotors. I still carry an ASE Master Tech Certification and know my way around brakes better than most. By the way I always tourqe my lug nuts. I can't attribute the resolution of this problem to anything other than cross drilled rotors. I'm not saying that these are a must have for everyone, only that they haven't hurt me and don't owe me anything.
On the cross drilled subject. I've read all the different comments on the pros and cons of doing this. A lot of what is written is pretty compelling, in fact I came very close to buying slotted only rotors this last go round. Having said that I can only speak from my own experience. This is now the 4th vehicle I have put them on and I've had no problem with them. One of my previous vehicles was a rotor eating beast. It was a 95 Town Car. The only thing that stopped me from selling this rotor warping vehicle was a set of cross drilled rotors. Put em' on problem was gone. This was after 4 sets of premium rotors on the front and 3 on the rear and several rotor machinings to go along with these. Always used premium pads and either rebuilt or remanufactured calipers with each brake job. It didn't go through pads particularly quickly it just warped rotors. I still carry an ASE Master Tech Certification and know my way around brakes better than most. By the way I always tourqe my lug nuts. I can't attribute the resolution of this problem to anything other than cross drilled rotors. I'm not saying that these are a must have for everyone, only that they haven't hurt me and don't owe me anything.