I have a 2001 SCrew (2WD). It's time for the first brake job. Looks like a lot of folks have trouble removing rotors. Are folks replacing pads without removing and resurfacing rotors? The rotors appear to be in good shape. As a note, Haynes describes the pad replacement, but doesn't mention rotor removal.

 

A 2wd has a rotor and hub assy, where as a 4x4 has a rotor that slips over the studs on to the hub. It is the 4x4 what has the frozen rotor problem

 

i need a brake job soon too and was wondering if i need to resurace the rotors or turn them? i have a 2000 4x4 (4 wheel disc abs) any help??

 

Resurface or turn are the same thing. The rotor is put on a lathe and "turned" taking off some metal and then a non-directional surface is created. If you have high mileage just replace them. If there is enough metal left a shop can turn or resurface them. If run out is excessive, replace them.

 

oh ok that makes sense i suppose...i bought my truck off a lease return at 44k and it now was 61k...it never had a brake job since i had it but now their going.... im guessing im considered to have low enough miles to just turn them?

 

If you are still on stock brakes over 60K miles you will probably need to replace the rotors. The only way to be sure is to have a shop measure the thickness and run-out. If they can be turned to remove any grooves and run-out and still end up thicker than minimum required thickness you will not need to replace them.

 

ok thanks very much for the info. it helped alot, i think i will try to do the brake job my self but bring the rotors in and see what my local mechanic/buddy thinks... if i am looking at buying new rotors is it worth getting the kinda crummby oem, or is there a cheap aftermarket one alot of people use? im a college kid so the cheaper the better i guess... i dont do much towning...maybe a sled trailer once or twice a winter that about it. and also if i get oem or keep the ones i have... any pads that work well with the rotors? or should i stick with the oem pads too for price vs perfromace. thanks very much for your help, i know its alot of?'s haha but its my first brake job on a truck ( i have done motocross dirtbikes alot) and i guess i need to learn lol. thanks again!

 

In all my years of owning vehicles, I've replaced rotors exactly once. And that was because the brakes had a vibration. We aren't driving a POS Jeep Cherokee. The original brake discs are good for at least one turning and probably two. And if your brakes don't pulse and they aren't gouged then you can simply use some 80 grit to break the glaze on them instead of removing them and paying someone to turn them.

I've had mixed results getting discs turned, half the time either the machine or operator is screwed up and the brakes will pulse after getting them turned. All the good machine shops I knew 20 years ago have all closed down and I certainly don't trust the pimply faced kid at the local Pep Boys.

 

My first brake job on my truck was at 40k miles. I took the rotors in and had them turned. In September I had to my brakes again at 65k miles. the front rotors were below specs and would not even pass inspection. I bought the rotors and pads at Advanced auto. the rotors were only $35 each and I put on the good bendix pads. On the rear I just slid new pads in. the complete bill for every thing was around $170.
When you do your brakes make sure you clean the calipers where the pads ride, lube the slide pins, use locktite on the caliper mount bolts and bleed and flush the system.
Buy a Haynes manual and it will help you a lot.

 

Hey,
Good Luck, best bet is to have them turned if possible...Consider yourself lucky, as alot of us 2004 f-150 owners are encountering brake problems as early as 5K! Good Luck

 

There is no need to turn the rotors unless they are scored or out of round. I have done at least a thousand brake jobs in the 25 years I have been a mechanic and I only turn rotors when they meet the above criteria. Remove the glaze with some rough sandpaper and you are in good to go. I do recommend repacking the wheel bearings when you replace the pads. The rotors will last the life of the vehicle if the brake system is properly maintained.

 

I also have a 01 Screw.

1. The first thing to check is the rotor thickness. See if you can borrow a micrometer from a friend or buy one. There is a Harbor freight near my work so I picked up a set of three (0-1",1"-2",2"-3") for about $40. Don't buy the individual one for 0"-1" as the rotors are slightly over 1" and it won't work. If you are still running the stock brakes odds are about 50-50 that you will need new rotors. Ford runs a ceramic pad which dusts less, but is more abrasive on the rotor. It also tends to dump more heat into the rotor leading to some of the complaints you probably have read about on rotor warpage.

2. If you have enough meat left on the rotor and you don't feel any pulsing with the brakes, then the runout on the rotors is usually so low that getting them turned will correct it. If your brakes are pulsing, odds are you will not be able to correct the runout by getting them turned so get new rotors.

3. If the rotors do have enough meat left I recommend that you follow the directions that come with the break pads (everyone I have seen has said to turn the rotors)

4. Whether or not you get new rotors, replace the wheel bearings and races.

5. As for rotors and pads, don't get the cheapest ones you can find. They may work fine in everyday driving, but when you have an idiot pull out in front of you, the brakes are the only thing that is going to stop your 4000+ lb truck doing 70 mph from turning him into a pancake, not to mention ruining your nice truck. Get good name brand parts. They will make the difference in stopping your truck shorter in a panic stop.

6. The last set of rotors I put on where Brembo OEM's from Tire Rack. Haven't had a lick of problems with them. Also using the Hawk HPS Street Pads. Tire Rack recommends them over the EBC pads for better consistancy although both are good pads. I think I will try either the Powerslot or EBC slotted rotors next with the HPS pads.

Good luck with the brake job.

 

Only if you do not plan for it to have a long life! Rotors are being abraded from day one. Anything that gets some of its surface removed on a daily basis will not last the life of the vehicle. Any mechanic with 25 years experience could tell you that. Properly maintain brake systems have their wear components replaced when they are worn.

 

When I rebuilt my 00Scab4x4 brakes at 80k, the front pads were wearing really peculiarly. It appeared only the center of the pads were touching rotors. I had no pulsing, so I had planned to resurface the rotors. However, I had to beat them so hard with a BFH that I bought new rotors from Advance. That was a really poor decision. Within 10k miles, those cheap Advance rotors were warped!!
So, my advice is: if you are not getting a pulsing when you brake, and the rotors surface looks reasonably flat. just put on new pads and keep on trucking. Resurface the rotors if they need it. And if you buy new rotors, don't buy the cheap ones. Buy the best quality you can find.