Fixing The Brakes Once and For All
#16
Originally Posted by Zaairman
Found this out the other day - If I pump the brakes a little, the pedal will stay firm, and not go down, as long as I keep my foot on it. Whaddya think? After I take my foot off and drive, it goes back to mush.
#18
if you put a light duty F250 master cylinder on the vehicle in place of the F150 MC the brake pedal will get firm with about 1/2" of movement. the F250 has a bigger piston and bore therefore less pedal movement is required to move the brake pistons. (more fluid is displaced for a given amount of pedal travel)
#20
To me, it sounds like your front rotors need replaced. In my 82 bronco, i fought spongy brake feeling forever, turned out the rotors were so thin it just took that much petal to get the pad to apply the proper amount of pressure. I replaced the rotor / hub assembly and the pads, which pumped about 1/4 of the fluid out of my mastercylinder. Bled everything and its like a new truck now (not quite as good as my 00 F150 w/ 4wheel disks, but much better - and i don't expect it to be that good since the bronco has 35's).
Since the front end of your brakes do about 70% of the braking, I would look there (after you ensure the rear drums have good pads and are self-adjusting properly).
Since the front end of your brakes do about 70% of the braking, I would look there (after you ensure the rear drums have good pads and are self-adjusting properly).
#22
it sounds like you have two problems.
1. rear shoes are out of adjustment
2. air in the system from being improperly bled
you "pump" the brakes and the pedal firms up-rear shoes are now up against the drums-you let off the pedal and the shoes draw back an 1/8" of shoe travel is 1-1.5" of pedal travel
air in the balancer above the diff
1. rear shoes are out of adjustment
2. air in the system from being improperly bled
you "pump" the brakes and the pedal firms up-rear shoes are now up against the drums-you let off the pedal and the shoes draw back an 1/8" of shoe travel is 1-1.5" of pedal travel
air in the balancer above the diff
#23
I found the replacement sping kit at Advance Auto, I'm going to do that and new shoes sometime this week, and I'll probably do the fronts as well. I know that it is my right rear drum that has the bad springs. I know that what you do to one side of the brakes you must do to the other, so will I need to replace the springs on the left side too? It's only a $12 kit for it all so I might as well anyways right?
#25
#26
brakes working again
I had the spongey brake pedal and feeling like I was not going to get stopped.
In the last year I replaced the front rotors, pads, and mastercylinder, bled
out the old fluid and still had spongey brakes. I broke one of the bleed screws
on back wheel cylinder so I needed to replace that before I could bleed again,
I finally got to it,replaced both rear cylinders, new linings, new springs, and
had drums turned true. after bleeding the rear cylinders and bleeding the front.
I now have good brakes, better than I ever had, since I owned it. hopefully
I won't have anymore problems with my brakes.
Thanks to all on here for helping me out,
Ifishwalleye
In the last year I replaced the front rotors, pads, and mastercylinder, bled
out the old fluid and still had spongey brakes. I broke one of the bleed screws
on back wheel cylinder so I needed to replace that before I could bleed again,
I finally got to it,replaced both rear cylinders, new linings, new springs, and
had drums turned true. after bleeding the rear cylinders and bleeding the front.
I now have good brakes, better than I ever had, since I owned it. hopefully
I won't have anymore problems with my brakes.
Thanks to all on here for helping me out,
Ifishwalleye
#27
hey i dont know the problem you are having but i think i have the same exact thing going wrong with mine. there is no way its brake lines. i dont see how the master cylinder could be bad either. i am almost certian it has something to do with the abs! no if we can just find out what! someone has to know!