SO!
If the pads and rotors get hot , within reason, their ability to stop your truck is not comprimised. Got it.
What slotted rotors do is increase their ability to dissipate heat thereby reducing the likelihood of heating your fluid up to the boiling point. In my case DOT3, so about 446degrees.
As I see it the cheapest way to keep your brake system healthy over all is to maintain the system with whatever stinkin' rotors you want and more so good fresh brake fluid so that boiling point is not reduced by moisture in the system.

RIGHT?

 

Bingo.

Good quality pads help too... higher coefficient of friction. They may wear the rotors a tad quicker, but it's probably worth it. 98Navi says he got good results from the EBC's he installed, and I believe him. I have EBC's on my bike, which will do 0-60 in about 2.9 seconds... it stops pretty good too.

 

OK, I think I got all that (you damn engineers and your thingamajigwhatchamacallit words and all)

But you have to admit, they look more racey (digging for something) And they sound cool when you go on a road with center concrete dividers on both sides

Thanks for the lesson though, try and learn somethin new everyday. (my lesson usually comes from the history channel though)

 

Hey Navi,
Which EBCs do you use? Standard green or one of the more expensive versions?

 

They DO look cool, especially with the open spoke rims.

The factory rotors on my bike are drilled, but that's more about saving weight I think.. a few ounces means something on a 465# vehicle, especially rotating weight. Also, those rotors are stainless steel & only about 5mm thick, so any overheating (they ain't gettin' anywhere NEAR 900º) will probably cause warpage.

No problem tho, glad to help. It's useful to try and explain things, helps you remember stuff.

 

I use the greenstuff. I read about the red stuff and others, but they get real expensive real fast. The greenstuff at pep boys cost me like 89.99 and 69.99 if I remember correctly.

 

There is a TON OF FREAKIN great information on this thread. I am adding one thing that no one has mentioned and should be headed if you want drilled and slotted rotors. Face it some will go this route because they watnt to period.


A plane rotor that has been slotted and drilled is JUNK. I talked to the guy on e-bay and he is drilling and slotting ford rotors. Guys, these are the ford rotors you are trying to get away from. I deal A LOT with metallurgy, if the rotor (regular one) is drilled after it has been manufactured, the heat will build up around the drilled holes and microcrack the rotor. The expensive rotors that have drilled and slots have been designed to accept the holes in certain places and some are even cast into the rotor itself. Making the hole an intergral part of the rotor. Keep this in mind. If and when you get drilled and slotted rotors. I'm not going to tell you one way or the other just do it right if you are going to do it.

YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. The is a reason Baer, Willwood, EBC, rotors cost a pretty penny because they are good!

 

Drilled rotors are have been known to get cracks from hole to hole. That's why I went with slotted. And the slots are to allow built-up gasses to escape from between the pads and rotors which creates brake fade. They are not for cooling.

 

Drilled rotors of the past without tapered holes were known for cracking. The newer ones with the tapered edge don't crack any more often than a typical flat faced rotor.

 

6T

We've long since gone over that. Start at the beginning!

 

You should stay afay from any cross-drilled rotors, they are much more prone to cracking around the holes. I would suggest going with the www.frozenrotors.com slotted rotors and one of there upgraded pads. You will not warp there rotors and will experiance much better braking performance.

 

we have a few customers we can not keep front brakes on without chewing the pads and rotors up every 8-10,000 miles. Put Cryogenic froze rotors on and no more blue rotors. The pads go about 18,000 miles (performance friction z rated carbon metalics) and the rotors last about three sets of pads before under spec. These guys drive with one puddle to the floor all the time, hard on the whole truck. We put them on our tow truckand we feel the brakes are lasting longer, haven't had to sevice them yet. They have and internet site called frozen rotors, just google it. Lots of other info on site too.

 

Ok, now that my brain is fryed...what have we learned? Drilled and fluted (or whatever) brakes are mostly just for looks and are prone to cracks? I've already had to turn my front rotors once, not because of a rough surface, but because they were warped from heat. I don't do very much heavy driving, Ford must have crummy brakes. Gotta do the rear rotors next, just don't have the cash (due to 3 spoiled rotten brats). So I guess I'll be replacing my brand new rear pads sooner than expected.

 

I've looked into the drilled rotors before and spoke to a local parts warehouse that supplies brake parts to the local police departments and other major repair shops. I was told that here in MN drilled rotors will crack at the holes due to the salty roads and moisture that builds up on them in cold weather after use. He said slotted rotors don't crack as easily. Which ones stop better, I couldn't tell you.