Brake/Caliper Question

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Old 04-28-2006, 02:01 PM
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Brake/Caliper Question

I don't really know too much about changing vehicle parts except for the basics. I remember the last time looked at my brakes, there was some sort of 'clip' on the caliper that prevented it from coming off. Is this common?? I might have to change my brakes and I would like some idea as too how this clip can be taken off, or if it even needs to be taken off...I have rotors all around the vehicle so I dont want to be fighting with this clip if I can avoid it.
 
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Old 04-28-2006, 05:04 PM
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Either on the front or rear you will have 2 bolts that bolt the caliper housing to the caliper bridge which double as a floating slider for the caliper. These sliders (inside the dust boot) need to be re-lubed with caliper slide lubricating silicone. The larger bolts hold the caliper bridge to the knuckle, which needs to be removed so that you can remove the rotor for turning (re-surfacing). Once the caliper is removed the brake pads should remain in the bridge. To remove tyhem pull them outwards. The exception is the rear where the inside pad is clipped and held into the caliper piston and the outer pad is clipped onto the caliper housing. The outer must be removed 1st by pressing it inward toward the caliper piston and toward the opening where the rotor was. The inner is just firmly pulled outward until the clip fingers are released from the piston.

Do not colapse the piston without opening the bleeder scew to remove the old fluid. Pushing the piston back without relieving the pressure will cause old fluid to be push back into the brake system with a probablilty of damaging the ABS valve as well as contamination. Always replace fluid out of a new sealed bottle to top off the system.

Brakes as a whole are easy, but if you have never done it before, have someone who is qualified, help you the 1st time.

These are obviously high-lights and is not a how to guide.
 

Last edited by Colorado Osprey; 04-28-2006 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 04-28-2006, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
Either on the front or rear you will have 2 bolts that bolt the caliper housing to the caliper bridge which double as a floating slider for the caliper. These sliders (inside the dust boot) need to be re-lubed with caliper slide lubricating silicone. The larger bolts hold the caliper bridge to the knuckle, which needs to be removed so that you can remove the rotor for turning (re-surfacing). Once the caliper is removed the brake pads should remain in the bridge. To remove tyhem pull them outwards. The exception is the rear where the inside pad is clipped and held into the caliper piston and the outer pad is clipped onto the caliper housing. The outer must be removed 1st by pressing it inward toward the caliper piston and toward the opening where the rotor was. The inner is just firmly pulled outward until the clip fingers are released from the piston.

Do not colapse the piston without opening the bleeder scew to remove the old fluid. Pushing the piston back without relieving the pressure will cause old fluid to be push back into the brake system with a probablilty of damaging the ABS valve as well as contamination. Always replace fluid out of a new sealed bottle to top off the system.

Brakes as a whole are easy, but if you have never done it before, have someone who is qualified, help you the 1st time.

These are obviously high-lights and is not a how to guide.
Overall thats a good list. The caliper bolts do not require new lubricant, although it is a good idea to do it while they are out. As for opening the bleeder for recompression, I done thousands of brake jobs and never once opened it. If you don't do it exactly right with the bleeder open, you risk getting air into the lines. (which you don't want) You can recompress the piston with a c clamp and the old pad (if you have dual piston calipers, you'll need the old pad, if just single you can do it with just a clamp) Just do one side at a time. You may get a little coming back through the resivior, just remove the cap and clean off anything that leaks down, as brake fluid is harmful to paint and will peel it off the firewall.
 
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Navi
Overall thats a good list. The caliper bolts do not require new lubricant, although it is a good idea to do it while they are out. As for opening the bleeder for recompression, I done thousands of brake jobs and never once opened it. If you don't do it exactly right with the bleeder open, you risk getting air into the lines. (which you don't want) You can recompress the piston with a c clamp and the old pad (if you have dual piston calipers, you'll need the old pad, if just single you can do it with just a clamp) Just do one side at a time. You may get a little coming back through the resivior, just remove the cap and clean off anything that leaks down, as brake fluid is harmful to paint and will peel it off the firewall.
My dad usually does my brake jobs for me..but I was just curious cause the last time I had my brakes done, i was away from home and therefore I had to take it to a shop. The process that you described with the C Clamp and the old pad is what he does...I was more worried about the stupid clip or whatever it is.
 



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