2002 F-150 Cuper Crew Lariat FX4, 5.4L

Truck has 52,000 miles, the rotors are not smooth, they have ridges, deep ones, and the pads are getting thin. It doesnt stop as well as it should and they squeek.

What else is there to the brake job aside from putting new rotors all the way around, and new pads all the way around? I figured i could do this much, and if for some reason there is another problem, i can go to the brake shop from there. Do the pads just snap on/off?

Also, where do i go for rotors and pads? Brands??


Thanks!
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ya, once you unbolt the caliper bolts (might want to spray some penitrant on them before you try to break them loose) you will see the 2 pads, one will be resting on the piston and the other one stays stationary. They should both just kinda slip out of their clips with a little force needed. Then it is just a matter of getting the rotor off which if it is anything like my 97 F150 you will need to take the dust cap off of the wheel bearing and clean and repack the bearings with new grease. The bearings are located inside of the rotor. There will be 2 bearings, one small one and one big one, then there will be a grease seal on the inside part of the rotor. then after you put the new rotors back on you just slip the new pads in right where the old ones were on the caliper (if you spray break quiet on the pads only spray it on the back of the pads and not the side that rubs on the rotor). Then just put the caliper with new pads on the car and you should be good to go. I dont think i missed anything??

as far as places to go to get the parts, well you should be able to go to any local automotive parts store to get them. I know that bendix brakes are pretty good and i am not sure about duralast brake pads.

 

The fronts on my 99 didn't have a bearing in them. I think somewhere they went to a one-piece hub assembly instead of bearings like mentioned above.

The brakes are quite easy. A book like haynes or chiltons will help you out big time if you've never done it before. But basically, for the fronts there are 4 bolts per side to remove. Two for the caliper, and two for the caliper bracket. Pads will most likely come with instructions, but they are usually generic.

Remove cap from resevoir. I've never had it overflow, but you may want to syphon some out for when you compress the pistons back down.

remove tire.

Spray everything on the assembly with brake clean to get the dust down.

Remove the caliper bolts and pull the caliper out of the assembly and tuck/tie it up out of the way, do not hang it by the brake line.

remove pads.

remove caliper bracket.

remove caliper. Remove the caliper anti-rattle clip (inside the caliper)

Spray the hell out of everything with brake clean.

remove the slides in the caliper braket by pulling them out 9with the rubber seal). Clean these well and regrease and reinstall them. Remove the anti-rattle clips.

Take one of your old pads and put it in the caliper up against the pistons. Use a c-clamp to squish them back in slowly and evenly to accomodate the size of the new pads.

Install new rotor, and caliper bracket with new clips installed. Use some anti-seize or something of the like to lube up the spots that the pads sit on.

Put the pads in place, they are specific for inner and outer so pay attention.

Next, take you caliper and install the anti-rattle clip. Put anti-sieze where the back of the pads contact the caliper, the caliper pistons, and the edges of the anti-rattle clip.

Slide the caliper into place. The slides in the bracket probably need to be pushed in while doing this. Install the bolts.

Put your resevoir cap back on.

put your tire back on.

start your truck and pump the brakes for a bit till it stiffens up. go for a test drive.

The rear is similar with, at least on mine, two exceptions. They have pads and shoes (for e-brake), and I don't remember a bracket like on the front. They also took a bit of a whack with a 5 pound sledge to free them up.


GOOD LUCK!