Time for new brakes -- Suggestions?
#1
08-21-2006 | 10:00 PM
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From: St. Charles, MO
Time for new brakes -- Suggestions?
Ok guys, it's time for some new front brakes on my 110K F-150, 2wd. I'm already planning on getting the rotors turned. Any suggestion on brake pads? I do a lot of towing, nothing heavy (under 3000lbs), and lots of highway driving. I really hate brake dust. Also, while I have my rotors off, would it be that hard to replace my front wheel bearings? Sorry, I'm currently 120 miles away from my Haynes Manual. Any of the parts need to come from either O'Reilley or Advance. Thanks 
Any tips? I'm doing this at college 
Any tips? I'm doing this at college
#2
08-22-2006 | 03:50 PM
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From: Alaska
Use ceramic pads
I just replaced my front pads with a set of Napa pads with the ceramic formulation. Work great, low dust and noise. I don't know what your auto parts store carries but most of them have the ceramics.
Also, check out this link for proper bedding info. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Never have brake pulsing again if you use this method.
Also, check out this link for proper bedding info. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Never have brake pulsing again if you use this method.
#4
08-23-2006 | 05:56 PM
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I just replaced the rotors, brakes, and bearings in my F150 2WD.
If you are going to pull the rotors, might as well do the bearings while you are at it. At the very least, re-pack them with fresh grease.
If you replace the bearings, you will need a brass punch to knock the races out of the rotor. There is an inner and outer race. Knock through the rotor to hit the race on the opposite side, and knock the race a bit from side to side so that it does not **** in the bore and it will come out easily. New bearings come with new races. Never use old races with new bearings, or vice versa.
I used my old races as a tool to drive in the new races. I used my bench grinder to slightly grind down the OD of the race so that it would freely drop in and pull out of the race bore in the rotor. If you do not do this when you press in the new race the old race, being used as a tool, will also get stuck in the bore, and you will have no way to get it out! Be sure to dunk the race in water as you grind as it gets hot quickly.
Press in the new races, using the old race as a tool, and make sure the race is firmly bottomed out in the bore. That's all there is to it.
Steve
If you are going to pull the rotors, might as well do the bearings while you are at it. At the very least, re-pack them with fresh grease.
If you replace the bearings, you will need a brass punch to knock the races out of the rotor. There is an inner and outer race. Knock through the rotor to hit the race on the opposite side, and knock the race a bit from side to side so that it does not **** in the bore and it will come out easily. New bearings come with new races. Never use old races with new bearings, or vice versa.
I used my old races as a tool to drive in the new races. I used my bench grinder to slightly grind down the OD of the race so that it would freely drop in and pull out of the race bore in the rotor. If you do not do this when you press in the new race the old race, being used as a tool, will also get stuck in the bore, and you will have no way to get it out! Be sure to dunk the race in water as you grind as it gets hot quickly.
Press in the new races, using the old race as a tool, and make sure the race is firmly bottomed out in the bore. That's all there is to it.
Steve
#5
08-23-2006 | 07:57 PM
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From: St. Charles, MO
#6
08-24-2006 | 03:08 PM
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You'll definitely need some kind of tool to press the new race fully into it's bore. Once installed, the top face is under-flush, so you can't just use a block of wood or something. The old race works great - you just need to make it slightly smaller or else you will press it into the bore on top of the new race! 
If you don't replace the bearings, be sure to repack them with new grease.
Steve
If you don't replace the bearings, be sure to repack them with new grease.
Steve
#7
08-24-2006 | 04:22 PM
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From: St. Charles, MO
Alllrighty boys...just got done replacing the pads AND bearings 
Apparently the inner bearing must be knocked out in order to chuck up the rotor to turn it. New inner and outer bearings, fresh grease, and Wagner Thermoquiet pads. And wow...pedal feel is much firmer, and it doesn't drop as low now. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that they were the original pads 
The bolts didn't look like they had ever been touched before.
Apparently the inner bearing must be knocked out in order to chuck up the rotor to turn it. New inner and outer bearings, fresh grease, and Wagner Thermoquiet pads. And wow...pedal feel is much firmer, and it doesn't drop as low now. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that they were the original pads The bolts didn't look like they had ever been touched before.