I just bought new front rotors for my truck, and am getting ready to install them.

Any hints, tips, or procedures to make this job easier?

I've been told the rotors just slide off the studs, and the new ones slide on........is this true?

I'm sure there will be some rust issues since there is 83000 miles on the truck, and I'm sure these are the original rotors............so the dead-blow hammer will be getting a work out.

Thanks,

Steve

 

Hi Steve,

Just did mine on a 98 which were never frozen and have always been loose. Once you lift the caliper they should slide right off.

 

It looks as though I'll have to remove the spindle nut in the middle in order to get the rotor off.

Are there any online service guides for a 2001 F150 4X4 Supercrew?

Thanks,

Steve

 

Do not remove the nut. It has nothing to do with holding on your rotors.

If they aren't coming off, it's due to the dreaded rotor stiction problem. Soak the gaps with penetrant and get a very large hammer. Just be sure to only hit the rotor and what ever you do, use a safe and secure method for raising the front end.

Check out my past experience.

You should also do a forum search for "brake rotor" and read other people's tricks, tips, and experiences. It will help you understand the situation.

 

Not unless yours is a 2wd - 4wd's are simple , lift the caliper and they practically fall off , at least mine did. Pull your calipers loose , compress with c-clamps and hang out of the way with wire or coat hanger , replace disc.
I don't think yours are any different , I'm looking at the book now and these instructions cover models 1997 thru 2002.

Hope that helps

 

Rikster , just read your experiance - Glad I didn't have to go threw that!! I replaced my pads with those Lifetime Carquest Ceramics and warped my rotors (disc's)almost right away. I replaced discs w/Brembo's. So far-so good.

 

To say the experience sucked would be an understatement. What else can I say about it? At least by my calculation, I must have saved over $400 in labor from a shop.

BTW, the caliper mounting bolts get torqued to 136 lbs per foot. Steve, thought you'd like to know that for reassembly. Good luck with the job. Hopefully yours will go easier than mine did.

 

Well it's all done, I ended up doing new front rotors, new front pads, new rear rotors, and new rear pads.

Front rotors were tough coming off...........but not too tough for my 8lb sledge hammer. I broke my 3lb hand sledge hammer trying to get them off, so out came the big guns. About 8-10 good hits with the big hammer, and the rotor was in 2 peices and come off very easy.

While I had the driver's side rear apart, I found the source of my axle leak. 1 of the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the housing to the rear axle had come totally apart. The nut was floating around inside the rear brake rotor, and the bolt was just sitting in the hole. The other 3 were totally loose...........so I cleaned all the grease out, and put them all back together and tightened them down.

$160 for 4 rotors and the 2 sets of pads, and about 3 hours in the garage working on it.

Steve

 

Brake shops are such a rip-off.

They act like this is Rocket Surgery.

Great job.

 

Whoa! I don't think your rotors should have broken in two from 8-10 hits from a sledgehammer. That's not right. There's something very wrong there. I beat the hell out of mine and all I got were light indentations from the blows.

 

Both of my front rotors broke in two, but I had a little help from a fire wrench .

 

I called up a buddy of mine who is a mechanic, and he told me that's what will happen. Knock the crap out of them with a hammer and they will break in 2, then hit the center part that is still stuck and it will break the rust bond loose. It's the only way to do it and not take all day. Just have to be careful not to hit the wheel studs, the spindle, or anything else that you don't want to destroy.

Now you also have to picture this........8lb sledge hammer with a 36" handle with me being 6'2" and a solid 260 lbs...........those rotors didn't stand a chance.

Steve

 

It sounds like you were able to get a bit more leverage on your swings than I was able to with my front end only up on jack stands. I wish I had the room for one of those home lifts. That would be nice. I guess I really don't need a floor in the room over the garage anyway.

 

Mine was on a floor jack and jack stands, just high enough to get the tires off.

The rotors are only cast steel.........and very easy to break. They are very strong for their intended purpose, but if you beat them straight on the face they are not tough at all.

Once I removed the caliper, that is the spot I hit with the sledge hammer. Once I saw the crack form, I turned the rotor 180 degrees and hit it again to make the crack go all the way around. Once the "rotor-part" broke from the part where the wheel studs go, I just gave the center part a few good hits on the side and it would break free.

I really didn't have to swing hard, I really took it easy so I wouldn't hit the studs or the spindle. I was surprised at how easy they broke, but very pleased.

Steve

 

I guess I better start eating my Wheaties. It sounds like you were hitting from the outside in and I was under the truck hitting from the inside out. Your way sounds easier.