E-Brake repair - outrageous quote..
#1
E-Brake repair - outrageous quote..
I've just received a quote for repairing the e-brake components, from a Ford dealer, that includes 5.2 hours of labor..!! Can somebody help me understand if this is really a long hard job, or if the dealer is just not interested in doing it. Can I do it myself??
The truck
2001 Ford F150 Supercrew 4.6l V8 4x4
The details
Last time the rear brakes were done (replacement rotors and pads) the parking brake components were found to be corroded and seized beyond repair.
The shop doing the work convinced me I didn't need the e-brake anyway, and put evberything back together without the e-brake components inside the hub on the rotor.
I have decided that I want to put this right, and so got a quote from my local Ford dealer today - here is the breakdown, note that prices are in Canadian Dollars.
Replace rear parking brake shoes and machine drums
- 3.0 hrs labor
- parts 89.22 and 61.30
- total $420.22
Replace 2 rear cables
- 2.2 hours labor
- parts 45.16 and 77.00
- total 319.94
Labor rate is $89.90/hour which i think is pretty standard.
Whats up with that? How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
Thanks.
The truck
2001 Ford F150 Supercrew 4.6l V8 4x4
The details
Last time the rear brakes were done (replacement rotors and pads) the parking brake components were found to be corroded and seized beyond repair.
The shop doing the work convinced me I didn't need the e-brake anyway, and put evberything back together without the e-brake components inside the hub on the rotor.
I have decided that I want to put this right, and so got a quote from my local Ford dealer today - here is the breakdown, note that prices are in Canadian Dollars.
Replace rear parking brake shoes and machine drums
- 3.0 hrs labor
- parts 89.22 and 61.30
- total $420.22
Replace 2 rear cables
- 2.2 hours labor
- parts 45.16 and 77.00
- total 319.94
Labor rate is $89.90/hour which i think is pretty standard.
Whats up with that? How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
Thanks.
#2
Originally Posted by marginal
I've just received a quote for repairing the e-brake components, from a Ford dealer, that includes 5.2 hours of labor..!! Can somebody help me understand if this is really a long hard job, or if the dealer is just not interested in doing it. Can I do it myself??
The truck
2001 Ford F150 Supercrew 4.6l V8 4x4
The details
Last time the rear brakes were done (replacement rotors and pads) the parking brake components were found to be corroded and seized beyond repair.
The shop doing the work convinced me I didn't need the e-brake anyway, and put evberything back together without the e-brake components inside the hub on the rotor.
I have decided that I want to put this right, and so got a quote from my local Ford dealer today - here is the breakdown, note that prices are in Canadian Dollars.
Replace rear parking brake shoes and machine drums
- 3.0 hrs labor
- parts 89.22 and 61.30
- total $420.22
Replace 2 rear cables
- 2.2 hours labor
- parts 45.16 and 77.00
- total 319.94
Labor rate is $89.90/hour which i think is pretty standard.
Whats up with that? How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
Thanks.
The truck
2001 Ford F150 Supercrew 4.6l V8 4x4
The details
Last time the rear brakes were done (replacement rotors and pads) the parking brake components were found to be corroded and seized beyond repair.
The shop doing the work convinced me I didn't need the e-brake anyway, and put evberything back together without the e-brake components inside the hub on the rotor.
I have decided that I want to put this right, and so got a quote from my local Ford dealer today - here is the breakdown, note that prices are in Canadian Dollars.
Replace rear parking brake shoes and machine drums
- 3.0 hrs labor
- parts 89.22 and 61.30
- total $420.22
Replace 2 rear cables
- 2.2 hours labor
- parts 45.16 and 77.00
- total 319.94
Labor rate is $89.90/hour which i think is pretty standard.
Whats up with that? How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
Thanks.
Doing the rear brakes/ebrakes shouldn't be that hard to do, if you are mechanically inclined and have some basic hand tools.
From a safety stand point, make sure you have good jack stands and block/wheel chock your front wheels. Also, when purchasing the
ebrake shoes, make sure you get some blue thread lock (loc-tite). You will need to put some on the caliper bolts when reinstalling the
calipers.
But, if you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself, or don't have that much experience doing brakes, etc. then have them done by
a reputable shop. You wouldn't necessarily have to go to the dealer.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Mike
Last edited by mgsalida; 11-07-2006 at 08:12 PM.
#3
Shoot, that's crazy. To do mine, I think the shoes themselves were under 90 CDN $ and the harware kit was $25 or so. I take it you have the disc brake rear, as do I. The rotors should be good for a while, just get them cut every brake job unless they find they to be warped (unlikely). Usually, a bit of sandpaper to scuff inner ebrake drum surface and a die grinder to remove the lip if any is all that's needed. Once everything is off, take the swivelling part the cable hooks to apart, put one part in a vice and rock the other piece back and fourth to free it up. Wire wheel the entire thing, remember how it fits together, antisieze any part that has metal to metal contact, except the hook part (external). Put some antisieze on the contact points of the shoes to the backing plate, install all new springs, clips etc. (hardware kit) and be done. Remember to adjust the adjuster close, it should go on it's own anyways. In reality, me who has done this twice or 3 times now, it takes about an hour, both sides. It becomes a routine maintenance thing after a few seasons, so you start to get good at it. Surely you can do this, just remember how it goes together, or get a Haynes service manual or Chilton one, with pics. Important is seperating the swivelling piece that the cable hooks to, cleaning all the rust off and bieng fairly liberal with the antisieze stuff. Let us know how you do.
#4
Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4
Shoot, that's crazy. To do mine, I think the shoes themselves were under 90 CDN $ and the harware kit was $25 or so. I take it you have the disc brake rear, as do I. The rotors should be good for a while, just get them cut every brake job unless they find they to be warped (unlikely). Usually, a bit of sandpaper to scuff inner ebrake drum surface and a die grinder to remove the lip if any is all that's needed. Once everything is off, take the swivelling part the cable hooks to apart, put one part in a vice and rock the other piece back and fourth to free it up. Wire wheel the entire thing, remember how it fits together, antisieze any part that has metal to metal contact, except the hook part (external). Put some antisieze on the contact points of the shoes to the backing plate, install all new springs, clips etc. (hardware kit) and be done. Remember to adjust the adjuster close, it should go on it's own anyways. In reality, me who has done this twice or 3 times now, it takes about an hour, both sides. It becomes a routine maintenance thing after a few seasons, so you start to get good at it. Surely you can do this, just remember how it goes together, or get a Haynes service manual or Chilton one, with pics. Important is seperating the swivelling piece that the cable hooks to, cleaning all the rust off and bieng fairly liberal with the antisieze stuff. Let us know how you do.
Am I surprised with the labor hours, no. Not when everyone goes by the books rather than actual time.
#5
Originally Posted by marginal
Can somebody help me understand if this is really a long hard job.
Can I do it myself??
How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
Can I do it myself??
How hard would this be for a home mechanic to do?
1) You've never done anything similar to it.
2) You probably shouldn't start now.
If you're dead set on doing it yourself, have someone experienced with late model brake systems help you out. Others may disagree, but the brake system IMO is the ONLY--gotta work , no matter what-- system on a vehicle. Don't guinea pig it.
SL
#6
The dealer quoted you the book time because Ford says the axleshafts have to come out of the diff to get the e-brakes swapped. Of course, no tech in his right mind would do it that way since it's possible to change them with the axles in place, but they're gonna charge you the same. That's the way "flat-rate labor" works.
#7
Originally Posted by Steve83
The dealer quoted you the book time because Ford says the axleshafts have to come out of the diff to get the e-brakes swapped. Of course, no tech in his right mind would do it that way since it's possible to change them with the axles in place, but they're gonna charge you the same. That's the way "flat-rate labor" works.
i agree, when it comes to brakes and you are not 100% sure, go to a professional.
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#9
Don't forget that the "service brakes" must come off to get to the e-brakes.
Everyone has to start somewhere. We all did a brake job for the first time, at some point. I have done MANY brake jobs before but this was a first for rear disc brakes. Granted, having done many drum brakes and disc brakes went a long way.
If you really want to do your own brakes I would suggest the haynes book. Chiltons just don't seem as user friendly.
I would also say that if you are planning to possible start doing your own maintance, then yes do them yourself, preferrable with some assistance of a experienced person. If not,then perhaps you should take it in to get them done.
DO NOT take apart both sides at the same time. That way you will always have a complete side to look at if your in doubt.
good luck, bullseye670.............
Everyone has to start somewhere. We all did a brake job for the first time, at some point. I have done MANY brake jobs before but this was a first for rear disc brakes. Granted, having done many drum brakes and disc brakes went a long way.
If you really want to do your own brakes I would suggest the haynes book. Chiltons just don't seem as user friendly.
I would also say that if you are planning to possible start doing your own maintance, then yes do them yourself, preferrable with some assistance of a experienced person. If not,then perhaps you should take it in to get them done.
DO NOT take apart both sides at the same time. That way you will always have a complete side to look at if your in doubt.
good luck, bullseye670.............