Yea I guess Ill jsut ahve to pay more attention, but that was the scariest thing that has ever happened to me ever, I just got the truck back and he changed all the fluid front and back and all rotors/pads/shoes had about 50% left on them, but that is a good point that a tech could of jsut let the caliper hang loose when he was working on it

 

I'm with the majority on this one... A 10-year old hose was on borrowed time anyways. The fact that you were able to stop at all was an indication that the whole system was not disabled.

Dual-piston master cylinders are required by law and have been for at least a few decades. Tauruses are no exception. They have a dual-piston as well.

-Joe

 

[QUOTE=letsgomuddin4x4]
So let me get this straight, a brake job was in contact with you, and let you make an appointment with it? That's odd. How did it preform that?

 

Its not a good thing when you loose brakes...

 

Replaced the front brakes on my 97 F150 yesterday. Had a rusted brake line blow out as i was pumping the pedal to get the caliper pistons back where they should be. Was so thankful that it happened in the driveway and not on the road as was the case in your situation. Glad to hear everything worked out.

 

Yep. Rust on ANY of the brake lines requires replacement of the affected area or line.

SL

 

Remember if one side of the front wheels brake line was replaced you need to replace the other side too. Cause the new rubber one will not expand as much and where do you think all that pressure will be felt at....that's right...at the other old rubber brake line and boom.

Think of it like a radiator hose, you always replace both at the same time.

I like steel braided brake hoses

 

Common myth, but false. Hydraulic pressure will be, for all intents and purposes, the same through out the system. If you have 600 psi at the master cylinder, you will have 600 psi in the steel lines, flex hoses, and in the piston bores. That's why when you spring a leak in any one piece of the system, you lose both brakes on that circuit.

Replacing both radiator hoses at the same time is more a matter of regular maintenance than anything else. The pressure on the upper huse is the same as on the lower hose under normal conditions. Ther can be some *slight* pressure differences as it's the pressure difference that causes the fluid to flow, but the differences are minute.. a few psi at best.

Replacing both brake hoses at the same time is just good maintenance. Wear and tear on them is about the same, for all intents and purposes, and the average lifespans will be remarkably similar.

 

Exactly what Kingfish said. The brake work was probably done, and the calipers were left to hang. I'd replace both sides, just in case.

 

Brake line length and diameter have a effect on brake feel and performance. If you have ever had to replace them you will proably notice the lines in front have a few winds in them. This is to make them the same length as the rears. While hydraulic pressure to a point is a constant, it is still bound by the laws of physics as far as transmiting force. The longer or larger diameter or the line is going to require more fluid and pumping force to maintain a given pressure. This is why braided brake hoses are so popular, they do not expand therefore eliminating pressure drop.

 

good point oldman

 

Again, both common myths. The rear brake line has nothing to do with the fronts. It's a dual-piston system with a common but gated reservoir. That's why if your front brake hose bursts, the rear brakes still function. It's been required by federal law for a few decades.

Once the fluid fills the brake system, there is no flow through the system. The system will maintain the same pressure (**neglecting head pressure**) throughout. When you release the brakes and the system is vented to the reservoir, pressure throughout goes to 0. When you apply the brakes and the pressure goes to 900 psi, the pressure is the same at the left and right front calipers as it is right at the master cylinder. There is no flow loss as it's a closed and non-flowing system.

Braided lines are popular for a number of reasons. You are correct that they expand less for any given pressure. What that changes is the feel of the system as the movement of the pedal needed to generate pressure with PTFE lines will be less than that needed with a rubber hose. They do not eliminate pressure drop. They reduce the amount of mechanical travel needed to generate a given pressure. That's not the same thing as eliminating pressure drop.

A simple hydraulic system doesn't care whether it's transmitting the pressure through an oil drum sized cylinder or a mile of 1/8" tubing. Pressure is pressure either way. Flow is a completely different issue, and for a small hydraulic brake system on our vehicles, flow is a very minor issue except when bleeding the brakes.

-Joe

 

Well I will go with we are both right. In the end it was a learning experience maintain ur equipment.

 

"I had a line go except I was putting my truck in drive to go out of the garage so I wasn't moving. I've got a few rusted lines that need to be replaced coming from the master cylinder. Looks like I found a little project this weekend, thanks Oh yea and your going to need a double flaring tool kit for you do-it-yourselfers out there"

quote-Flareside150

really, i thought the newer f15os had ISO style flares?

 

on a 97 with what i would assume is original brake hoses im not surprised. just remember those hoses are flexing and bending every time you turn the steering wheel.