Hi all! I'm replacing all of my rotors on my 2001 F150 4.2L V6 2WD 4WABS Ext Cab Pick up truck and am having problems with the rear rotors. I've replaced the front rotors but I have not been successful in pulling the rear rotors off. The Haynes manual says to just pull the rear rotor off but no go. Parking brake was released when I tried to pull the rear rotor but it still would not budge. To those who have replaced their rears, how did you guys pull them off? I have sprayed the hub and the bolts with PB Blaster and Rust Eater thinking it may just be stuck but no go. I wanted to wack the rotor with a hammer but did not want to rick breaking something inside the disc. My understanding is the rear rotor also served as a brake drum for the parking brake. Looking for any ideas before I take it to a shop to get it worked on. Any help would be appreciated. TIA.
Fernan

 

On the inside of the backing plate there should be a rubber grommet, oval shaped. Pull that off and loosen the e-brakes adjuster with a flat screw driver and push the little wheel up I think. This ought to do it, after that, service the e-brakes. My suggestion is to disassemble the entire thing, wire wheel the swivelling part that the e-brake cable connects to and seperate the 2 pieces. Antisieze the whole thing where metal meets metal. If everything else is cool, reassemble. That part always seizes and makes rotor changes crazy. I had e-brake problems, fixed them by using all new hardware, a good cleaning and anti-seizing and then use them regularly. Once those bitches are put back nice, the brake job will be easy.

 

I had to get rather physical with mine and hit them with a hammer to get them off. The parking brake drum pads had work ito the rotor and formed a ridge. If they have been on for awhile you will probably have to replace the parking brake pads inside as well. I would also pick up a spring kit for the parking brakes incase you break one when removing the rotors. You can always take it back if not needed.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I will try this again tomorrow. I am going to loosen the parking brake and see if that helps, if not I'm getting a 3lb rubber mallet and forcing the rotors out.

 

Exact same very large ridge on my 2000. Replaced the rotors, pads and the emergency brake shoes & hardware.

 

I wouldn't suggest the hammer method of removal since you will really only be able to hit the rotor in one spot. It's a pain, and it will take a few minutes, maybe 10-15, but if you rock the rotor back and forth, it will work itself loose. Patience is the key...remember, work smarter, not harder!

 

I'd just whack 'em really good with a regular three pound hammer, not a rubber mallet. Alternate blows on the flat inner part of the rotor and (very carefully) tap on the hub of the axle. You'll be amazed at how much rust you knock loose. Just be careful not to inadvertently whack one or your lug studs. You mess the threads up on those and you've got more work to do.

The rear rotors on our truck don't say they are non-resurfaceable, but they are so close to the discard thickness when new that if you've had them on the truck for any ammount of miles, you're going to end up replacing them anyway. There's only something like .080 between the new thickness and the discard thickness on these rotors.

I just did a total brake job on mine over the holidays, and had to replace both rears, the brake pads and the e-brake pads. The e-brake pads had literally disintegrated and fallen off the metal portion of the shoe. The e-brake pads ran me like $16 at Autozone. I think I paid $65 for both rear rotors from the guy here at the local shop where I took the old ones to be turned. Maybe he felt bad since he couldn't turn the old ones and gave me a price break. Riiiiiight. Anyway good luck with that! They can be a real pain. I think once I got mine broken loose I still had to use a big pry bar to get them over the e-brake pads on the one side since my adjusters were all rusted up. Have fun, hope this helps.--DIY

 

thnx for the tips guys. i did not have time to work on it today, i'll probably save this project for this weekend. i'll post an update with pics when i'm done. these rotors are nice and i sure would like to have the rears done by saturday.

 

My 2001 F150 4X4 parking brakes locked up, I tried to remove the rear rotors but with the e-brake frozen it was impossible to remove. So I used a hacksaw and cut the rotors through to the e-brake shoe, do a second cut 180 degrees from the first cut. Then I put a 18" craftsman adjustable wrench on the rotor brake surface 90 degrees from the cut, then I put a 6 foot piece of pipe over the adjustable wrench handle to make a breaker bar out of it. Then snap the rotor in half. I broke both front rotors in half and one rear rotor, on the 4th rotor I broke the 18" wrench, take it to sears and get a FREE replacement! I replaced the parking brake shoes & hardware (ford calls it a combi kit) antisezied all moving parts especially the e-brake spreader. then I adjusted the parking brakes so the pedal is 3/4 way down when it engages, this will help get them apart next time. Also anti seize the rotor mating surface with the hubs. about $500 in parts latter I had all new brakes!!!

Here's a F150 rear disc brake diagram link.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/2...8disk97-02.jpg

Good luck!

Jerry

 

look on the face side around where the studs are. there should be one or two blank holes, you should be able to run a bolt into that hole (or both) and it will push on the back side of the mounting plate for the studs. and when it bottoms out on that plate, keep turning, and should push rotor right off the studs

edit: doesnt show the hole in that diagram posted above, but look around you might find one that will do as i described

 

I have yet to see one on a Ford OEM rotor.

There are two problems that occur. The first one is that the rotor comes loose from the axle flange but hangs up on the ridge of rust formed behind the e-brake shoes. Manually backing off the e-brake is all it takes to get around that one.

The rotor seizing to the axle is a whole other problem, but not very difficult to fix. First, get a large 3-jaw puller from Auto Zone or any other place that rents 'em. Then, wrench that puller down on the rotor pushing against the acle center as hard as you can. Once you have the pressure on it, give the 'hat' area a couple of good whacks with a large heavy ball-peen hammer or baby sledge. It seldom takes more than a couple of whacks to jar it loose (as long as the puller has pressure on it).

-Joe