Wagner Thermo-Quiets.They leave virtually no dust on your rims!

 

I have Wagner Thermo Quiets, but I would be curious to see how you like the Akebono. The Thermo Quiets are much better than stock for brake dust. While you will still get some, these get NO where near the amount of the stock pads.

 

Bendix ceramic pads, tried them all, from kevlar to low dust metallic. Thought about upgrading to ERADISPEED plus series rotors(15 in.). Don't think I need to now ! Buy the pads and be done with it you wont regret spending a measly 65 clams to stop nearly 3 tons on a dime !

 

Wagner Thermo-Quiets stopped my nearly 3 ton 97 F150 on a dime,and had virtually no brake dust,for a measly $48.00!

 

Akebono have been great so far, I havnt drove the truck much but have been checking for break dust and very little if any at all so far!

I think I need to bleed the brakes they now seem a little spongy.

 

I got the thermo quiets for $39 at www.partsplusautostore.com with free shipping when I thru in some oil filters...Great pads, very quiet...

 

Carquest Blues all the way!!!!!!!!

 

Simple to find and def. quality, Carquest Blues.

 

Hmm... they weren't spongy before - you change the pads - now they're spongy.

Explain how a pad change gets air in the system, please. I really wanna know.

Could it be the pads simply are not as 'grippy' as the stockers especially when cold? Did you prep the rotor surface, and them properly break in the pads are per the TireRack article? Any, or all, of those would be my vote.

And: not driving much = less dust.

Someone skipped Logic 101 class for a day!

BTW - Wagner TQ's = . Inexpensive, readily available, great braking, kind to rotors, and very little dust, even after actually driving the truck !

 

Pad changes get air in the system from pushing the pistons back and forth in the caliper. Even if the top to the main res. is closed it still is able to draw in air and therefore gets air into hte lines.

After any pad change, you should bleed the system, atleast the pads that you just changed. I did a 1 person bleed for the first time, bought a 8$ bleeder thingy from autozone and it worked very well. Not to tuff, took about 5mins and made a huge difference. Well soo did new rotors and pads.

 

Thanks. It's just that I never had this happen (yet, lol).

You'd think the seals would be better than that - otherwise there would be fluid weepage as well, no?

I mean - it's not like yer pumpin' those pistons in & out all day long - it's just one iteration you need. If that small action is introducing enough air into the sytem to cause a spongy pedal, then you have larger issues to contend with, IMHO.

I'll stick to my earlier reasoning on the cause of the OP's specific issue.... no offense.



MGD

 

The only times you need to bleed the system is during a caliper change, line change or wheel cylinder change etc. Places where the actual fluid is involved directly. Changing pads shouldn't have to warrant this, if so, there is or was a problem elsewhere. The main thing is to use the old pad against the piston(s), c-clamp slow until they are compressed back. Too fast may get air in the system, who knows.

 

Dad gummit, I hate when I have to agree with you! The only time a bleeding is necessary is when there is air. Should not get air changing pads. have to have the lines open or the master cylinder piston has to be exposed.

 

CQ-Blues

 

I know its to late for you but I have about 1000 miles on the Hawk LTS pads and Powerslot rotors, man what a difference. Stopping power and no dust, I did a 400 mile trip which is most of the 1000 miles so far and hardly any dust at all.