Originally Posted by wookie13

k so if pumpkin jacking is that bad then where do we jack our trucks at?{oh damn i just made a funny lol!!:lol]

Originally Posted by wookie13

k so if pumpkin jacking is that bad then where do we jack our trucks at?{oh damn i just made a funny lol!!:lol]

Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4

The rears are simpler still. The fronts have little tips that help in avoiding seizing and noise etc. and the rears are no exception, just less stuff. I can take mine apart in no time. Once you remove 2 10mm bolts (I'm pretty sure they are 10 mm), basically wiggle the caliper and pull from the bottom and it will come off. Looking at the outer pad and how it's clamped to the caliper, you'll also notice notches in the caliper that a flat screwdriver can wedge the clamp loose, very helpful. Once that ones out, c-clamp the piston into the sleeve using the old pad. After that, using a die grinder (air powered) and a wire bristled wheel, clean the caliper up where it makes contact with things. After, use anti-seize on areas that the caliper contacts to the pads, even the outer part where the pad clamps to the caliper (I've found it makes noises if you don't). Be extra careful not to get anti-seize on the rotor or the pad (friction area). Also be careful not to over anti-seize on the slider where the pads rest on, just coat it. While re assembling, tighten a couple lugs so the rotors are stiff keeping them away from the anti-seize. I find this tip helpful more on the fronts. Really it's easy, just getting the rotor off to be turned or replaced can be a bitch. If the e-brake assembly looks crappy and isn't working, now's the time to fix and replace things. At the very least, scuff the ebrake rotor area to get rid of the lip and rusty chit. Most times, the shoes are cracking or seperating from the linings. I like taking the assembly apart, cleaning the rusty areas and re-anti-seizing them, but most importantly the swiveling piece that the cable connects to. This is at the top and pushes the shoes apart so they contact the drum. This piece is 2 parts, and if you seperate, wire wheel clean em and anti-seize the hell out of it, remember how it re-assembles and fits back. All the rest, retainer pins, clips and springs should be ok, but a hardware kit is sold for 20 bucks from the dealer if needed. I think it even comes with new adjusters, can't remember. Best idea is to take detailed clear pics of how it is so it can be assembled the same ways. Use a coating of anti-seize on the bolts to the caliper and snug up. You don't need to tighten alot, just good and snug with a 3/8's drive socket. After all is said and done, you'll laugh at how easy it is.