ive noticed that the rear disc pads on my 02 screw 4x4 are getting really thin,ive never had rear discs bf so i was wondering how hard would they be to change on my own? also would i have to get the rotors turned as well?

 

It's not hard at all really. Plan on having the rotors turned because I'll bet they are fine. That is of course if they don't get warped beating them off. There is a rubber plug hiding the adjuster, see if that helps too. A tip: an easy way of removing the pads because the outer is clamped to the caliper is with a flat screwdriver, a good sized one. There is a slot to fit it to pry the pad out. Use the old pad against the piston to compress it into the sleeve with a c-clamp (slowly turn). Another tip is to inspect the e-brake assembly while it's exposed. If it works, blow it out and leave it. If things don't or the shoes are crap, fix it now. Clean all the important surfaces and anti-seize them, especially where the pad contacts the caliper, outer area where the pads clamps are too. Do the sliders but be careful not to get anti-seize on the rotor or pad (friction part). It's a can o' corn after you sucessfully do it, but there is alot of details overlooked, ask many questions if you're not sure, it will save ALOT of time and headaches, trust me.

 

Blue,

Can you go into the rear change a little more. With the front being so simple, I can't imagine the rear disks being difficult at all. I'm unclear regarding removing the calipers and pads. I shouldn't have to bleed the rears, correct? They're actually okay (about 40% left with 94k miles) but I replaced the front and wouldn't mind replacing the rears as I'll be towing a tractor around quite a bit in the upcoming months. Thank you

 

The rears are simpler still. The fronts have little tips that help in avoiding seizing and noise etc. and the rears are no exception, just less stuff. I can take mine apart in no time. Once you remove 2 10mm bolts (I'm pretty sure they are 10 mm), basically wiggle the caliper and pull from the bottom and it will come off. Looking at the outer pad and how it's clamped to the caliper, you'll also notice notches in the caliper that a flat screwdriver can wedge the clamp loose, very helpful. Once that ones out, c-clamp the piston into the sleeve using the old pad. After that, using a die grinder (air powered) and a wire bristled wheel, clean the caliper up where it makes contact with things. After, use anti-seize on areas that the caliper contacts to the pads, even the outer part where the pad clamps to the caliper (I've found it makes noises if you don't). Be extra careful not to get anti-seize on the rotor or the pad (friction area). Also be careful not to over anti-seize on the slider where the pads rest on, just coat it. While re assembling, tighten a couple lugs so the rotors are stiff keeping them away from the anti-seize. I find this tip helpful more on the fronts. Really it's easy, just getting the rotor off to be turned or replaced can be a bitch. If the e-brake assembly looks crappy and isn't working, now's the time to fix and replace things. At the very least, scuff the ebrake rotor area to get rid of the lip and rusty chit. Most times, the shoes are cracking or seperating from the linings. I like taking the assembly apart, cleaning the rusty areas and re-anti-seizing them, but most importantly the swiveling piece that the cable connects to. This is at the top and pushes the shoes apart so they contact the drum. This piece is 2 parts, and if you seperate, wire wheel clean em and anti-seize the hell out of it, remember how it re-assembles and fits back. All the rest, retainer pins, clips and springs should be ok, but a hardware kit is sold for 20 bucks from the dealer if needed. I think it even comes with new adjusters, can't remember. Best idea is to take detailed clear pics of how it is so it can be assembled the same ways. Use a coating of anti-seize on the bolts to the caliper and snug up. You don't need to tighten alot, just good and snug with a 3/8's drive socket. After all is said and done, you'll laugh at how easy it is.

 

thanks blue!! i have 55k miles is it normal to change rear pads at this milage?

 

Here's a look at em:





Hell, this reminds me I'm coming due for new pads on the rears, all the e-brake stuff is newish, like 2004 and 2005 depending on the stuff.

 

Forgot to mention that you don't need to bleed the brakes either. The only times I do is caliper, lines or wheel cylinder changes, whenever you actually have to deal with the fluid directly. Sometimes the pedal feels funny like spongey or pulsates a bit, couldn't hurt to bleed then to eliminate that possibility.

 

You're coming due, that's almost 100k km's and I did mine mixed driving at 110 000 km's, so they should start to make a few noises pretty soon. Rule of thumb is usually 2 sets of fronts to 1 set of rears, the rears will go a little quicker but close to that ratio.

 

Just turn the rear rotors, the stock pads will be fine. If you really feel the need, run some sandpaper over the surface of the pad to scuff them up a little.

Ive turned the rotors twice, and put on two sets of pads up front on my 03 Screw with 51k now. (need to turn the rears tho)
-Patrick

 

Please don't tell me yer jacking on the pumpkin. Big no-no ....

 

hah nice find, didnt even look at it

I think you and i need to be the picture police

 

i did fronts at 42xxx{pad change only} miles and then my left front wheel hub went bad{luckily 10 ft away from ford dealer no less!}and they did my front brakes again{new rotors for both sides and new pads, i dont even use my e-brake unless im on a steep hill which isnt very often,would that be ok just to blow the crap out of the e-brake assembly? also my rears make NO noise whatsoever.

why is jacking on the pumpkin bad? ive done it on both my mustangs and an explorer that i had w/ no probs

 

Ya, what's wrong with pumpkin jacking? I've done it forever and have had zero issues, hell I could almost lift the rear myself. Mr. Ford probably doesn't want it there for liability purposes, if they didn't tell you to jack other places instead, legal mumbo-jumbo would be all over them. Not putting jack stands under is a big no-no.

The e-brake is something to consider, but if it still works fine, leave it. I did continue to ignore it until I needed it one day and it stuck. If it feels like it is dragging after use, check it out. A sure fire way to tell is a burning smell and most noticed was a very hot rim after a short 10 minute drive. That piece inside pivots or swivels and always gets seized. Every so often have a look to see it has released properly.

 

Wookie, Blue.

Do a search - pumpkin jacking can crack it - especially on heavy trucks - you may get away with it on a lighter vehicle (stang).

It's a known and very real problem. Consider the lever arm your two axles form (each supporting the rear vehicle weight) with the jack point.

The pumpkin was never intended as a jack point - the material is too brittle; it's not normally supporting the kind of specific bending load you are applying to it.

You are playing roulette. Even the Ford docs strongly advise against doing this.

I Know it's expedient, but this shortcut has too many negatives.

Safety over shortcuts.

Be safe. Please.


MGD

 

k so if pumpkin jacking is that bad then where do we jack our trucks at?{oh damn i just made a funny lol!!:lol]