Setting wheel bearing freeplay
#1
Setting wheel bearing freeplay
On other cars with a similar bearing set up (2WD, '99), we'd normally tighten the nut, then back it off and leave it alone. We'd get virtually no play.
When I jacked up the truck yesterday, I found the same amount of play on both sides. (bearings are just over a year old). I repacked them with fresh grease and reassembled.
When following the haynes manual recommendtion, it said to torque it to 12lbs, spin it, then to 30lbs, back off 1/4 turn and then "hand tight". When I did that, I still had some play (I initially interpretted this as "finger tight"). I kept adjusting and backing off and still would get play.
I then tightened the nut using my hand holding on the socket, not enough to crush an egg though.
Then, I noticed that the wheel had no play, but I couldn't get the wheel to spin a full revolution.
How tight is too tight? And what's the best way to adjust this thing? Or did I get it right?
When I jacked up the truck yesterday, I found the same amount of play on both sides. (bearings are just over a year old). I repacked them with fresh grease and reassembled.
When following the haynes manual recommendtion, it said to torque it to 12lbs, spin it, then to 30lbs, back off 1/4 turn and then "hand tight". When I did that, I still had some play (I initially interpretted this as "finger tight"). I kept adjusting and backing off and still would get play.
I then tightened the nut using my hand holding on the socket, not enough to crush an egg though.
Then, I noticed that the wheel had no play, but I couldn't get the wheel to spin a full revolution.
How tight is too tight? And what's the best way to adjust this thing? Or did I get it right?
#2
With the tapered roller bearings, just finger-tight is enough. If you need to go behond finger-tight to get the castle nut lined up with the hole in the spindle, odds are it'll be too tight. You're better off running it a little bit on the loose side then re-checking the torque in a week or so. Run 'em too tight and they'll overheat, seize, and cook the spindle... It's not pretty when that happens.
-Joe
-Joe
#3
The way i do em is to use the flat washer behind the nut as a guide.
Tighten the nut then use a screwdriver to see if you can slide the washer, if you can't, it's too tight.
you should have some resistance on the washer, a little force with the screwdriver will make it move.
You can feel how tight the nut is on the bearing using this method
Tighten the nut then use a screwdriver to see if you can slide the washer, if you can't, it's too tight.
you should have some resistance on the washer, a little force with the screwdriver will make it move.
You can feel how tight the nut is on the bearing using this method
#4
On those I use a pair of knipex or good channel lock pliers, not gripping the nut from the side but face the pliers towards the nut with just the tips of the jaw, Choke up on the pliers and just use wrist strength to turn. I would never be able to do it with a socket without over tightening it. Make sure you use Ford Mercury rated approved grease, makes a huge difference.... don't use the old peanut butter crap.
#5
Originally Posted by srfd44
The way i do em is to use the flat washer behind the nut as a guide.
Tighten the nut then use a screwdriver to see if you can slide the washer, if you can't, it's too tight.
you should have some resistance on the washer, a little force with the screwdriver will make it move.
You can feel how tight the nut is on the bearing using this method
Tighten the nut then use a screwdriver to see if you can slide the washer, if you can't, it's too tight.
you should have some resistance on the washer, a little force with the screwdriver will make it move.
You can feel how tight the nut is on the bearing using this method
+1