04 Lariat - ? Replacing Rotors
#17
11-17-2008, 12:33 AM
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Use a 36mm socket, or if you cant find one, like i did, i bought a 1 7/16", either 6 or 12 point will work, but in a case like this with high torque, i would prefer a 6 point. To get the torque right, without buying or renting a torque wrench that will go that high, just put a cheater pipe on your 1/2 breakover bar. But calculate the lever moment, i.e., i weigh about 150 lbs, so i set the pipe at 24" from pivot point. Then i stand on the end, (2 ft x 150=300 ft lbs)
Do NOT bounce on it, DONT go more than that. (I had put 3-4 drops of red loctite on the threads). Even our local Ford dealer said they reuse the nuts all the time. They just hammer them back on with an impact. BTW,,, there 25 bucks a piece and they will prob. have to order them. Some folks mark a spot on the nut flange, in line with the cotter pin, and it should go back to the same spot when finished. have fun.....rossford
Do NOT bounce on it, DONT go more than that. (I had put 3-4 drops of red loctite on the threads). Even our local Ford dealer said they reuse the nuts all the time. They just hammer them back on with an impact. BTW,,, there 25 bucks a piece and they will prob. have to order them. Some folks mark a spot on the nut flange, in line with the cotter pin, and it should go back to the same spot when finished. have fun.....rossford
#18
06-08-2009, 07:30 PM
Ford 2WD Rotor replacement
I got mine at the Ford Stealer, but he charges $28.00 a side. You can get the same nut cheaper elsewhere. I got a 300 ft. lb. torque wrench at Harbor freight for around $75.00.
When I did mine, I changed to Bear Eradispeed rotors which come as a two piece set. Now the disk is separate from the hub and can be removed without having to deal with the hub.
I checked the manual and the spindle nut torque is not 300 ft. lb. it's 295 fl. lb. So it's not as bad as you thought.
Also I wanted to add that mine was easy to take off. They use two large sealed ball bearings in the hub and the whole assembly just pulled off, although it does weigh a bit, cast iron and all.
Picture shows the new Bear hub.
With the disk installed.
When I did mine, I changed to Bear Eradispeed rotors which come as a two piece set. Now the disk is separate from the hub and can be removed without having to deal with the hub.
I checked the manual and the spindle nut torque is not 300 ft. lb. it's 295 fl. lb. So it's not as bad as you thought.
Also I wanted to add that mine was easy to take off. They use two large sealed ball bearings in the hub and the whole assembly just pulled off, although it does weigh a bit, cast iron and all.
Picture shows the new Bear hub.
With the disk installed.
<font color= Red> I was wondering If you need to lube up the inside of the hub, the new rotor with hub attached doesn't look greased up? thanx</font>
#20
06-08-2009, 11:23 PM
Personnally, I would avoid drilled rotors unless you are racing. Slotted are ok, but drilled are hard on pads and your not creating enough heat to really need them. The nut can be gotten at many parts stores. I'm not advocating it, but I reused mine 45,000 miles ago and have had no issues. They are held in place by a large cotter pin. Mine were done back before you could get replacemants nuts. I bought Raybestos rotors at a local parts store as I needed them in a hurry due to a bearing failure.
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Jim
Jim
#21
06-10-2009, 08:50 PM
