Best Tire for MPG
#16
Originally Posted by esf
45 PSI is probably a C rated tire. Use whats on the trucks door as a guide more than anything. Tires are going to vary a bit based on how they're made. Some may run better with a bit more air and some with a bit less. If they look underinflated then put a bit more air in them but don't get carried away. Out of curiousity, what does the door sticker tell you to run them at?
The door says run them at 38psi cold.
#17
Don't forget when checking your mileage after installing larger tires, that your odometer readings are no longer accurate. I upgraded from 265/60 18s (30" tire) to 275/70 18s (33" tire). If I used the odometer (without calculated the increased distance travelled due to the increased diameter of the wheel) it showed a substantial loss in mileage. When I calculate the 8.6% increase in actual miles driven, the mileage is basically the same. This point is not valid, however, if you have reprogrammed your speedo. As far as the horsepower loss, there is none - as said above, what you have effectively done is increased your gear ratio of power to the road due to the larger tires.
#18
Narrower summer treads will not only be lighter but they will also produce less friction. Try to find one that will fit onto the rim and be the same diameter as your stock wheels.
Go with Toyo Proxies if you can. Then swap them out during wintertime. You're not going to get that great of mileage in the winter anyway.
Go with Toyo Proxies if you can. Then swap them out during wintertime. You're not going to get that great of mileage in the winter anyway.
#19
Originally Posted by dlsipe1
Don't forget when checking your mileage after installing larger tires, that your odometer readings are no longer accurate. I upgraded from 265/60 18s (30" tire) to 275/70 18s (33" tire). If I used the odometer (without calculated the increased distance travelled due to the increased diameter of the wheel) it showed a substantial loss in mileage. When I calculate the 8.6% increase in actual miles driven, the mileage is basically the same. This point is not valid, however, if you have reprogrammed your speedo. As far as the horsepower loss, there is none - as said above, what you have effectively done is increased your gear ratio of power to the road due to the larger tires.
#20
Originally Posted by RoushF150
Narrower summer treads will not only be lighter but they will also produce less friction. Try to find one that will fit onto the rim and be the same diameter as your stock wheels.
Go with Toyo Proxies if you can. Then swap them out during wintertime. You're not going to get that great of mileage in the winter anyway.
Go with Toyo Proxies if you can. Then swap them out during wintertime. You're not going to get that great of mileage in the winter anyway.
I would rather stick with American made tires. ...either Michelin or Goodyear.
#21
Originally Posted by jasonburrwc84
I would rather stick with American made tires. ...either Michelin or Goodyear.
Goodyear would be good if they didn't flop all over the road. I'm a die hard U.S. product man, but I swear the Goodyear mascot must have horns and a pitch fork.
#22
#23
Originally Posted by esf
45 PSI is probably a C rated tire. Use whats on the trucks door as a guide more than anything. Tires are going to vary a bit based on how they're made. Some may run better with a bit more air and some with a bit less. If they look underinflated then put a bit more air in them but don't get carried away. Out of curiousity, what does the door sticker tell you to run them at?
#24
#25
So much mis-information.
The tire size upgrade you did is 5% larger, so you are travelling 5% further than your odometer tells you. Figure ~.75 MPG better than your new calculations.
Weight was the problem when you changed tires/wheels. It is much harder to turn a 55 pound tire than a 40 pound tire. Skip the C/D/E rated tires because they are heavier than p-rated for the same tire size. The LT tires tend to last longer, but there are exceptions. The important thing is the actual load rating of the tire. For example, the 245/60R18 has a load rating of 1984# per tire, which is a little low for 1/2 ton truck duty. Check your driver's door sticker for the rear axle rating. You want a tire load rating at least half that, maybe a little more for safety margin especialy p-rated tires.
265/60R18 would probably be a good sie for you. Firestone destination LE is a good value with Goodyear Fortera Silent Armor the longest treadwear.
The tire size upgrade you did is 5% larger, so you are travelling 5% further than your odometer tells you. Figure ~.75 MPG better than your new calculations.
Weight was the problem when you changed tires/wheels. It is much harder to turn a 55 pound tire than a 40 pound tire. Skip the C/D/E rated tires because they are heavier than p-rated for the same tire size. The LT tires tend to last longer, but there are exceptions. The important thing is the actual load rating of the tire. For example, the 245/60R18 has a load rating of 1984# per tire, which is a little low for 1/2 ton truck duty. Check your driver's door sticker for the rear axle rating. You want a tire load rating at least half that, maybe a little more for safety margin especialy p-rated tires.
265/60R18 would probably be a good sie for you. Firestone destination LE is a good value with Goodyear Fortera Silent Armor the longest treadwear.