All I know is I'm in a much better situation with them than without them. And I have seen no compromise in strength either and as far as the bling thing, you can't even SEE them on my truck. Nobody would even know I have them unless you take the tires off. I know alot of mechanics who happen to be friends of mine and they would never steer me in the wrong direction (since I would have them work on my ride and they wouldn't make any money off of me anyway) and they ALL have recommended that I go in this direction and I'm glad I listened to them! I don't know Wilwood, haven't seen Wilwood and don't care to. Don't take this post the wrong way Blue as this is not a personal attack on you, but I've seen you post the same thing about this subject before and I understand what you are saying. Some others out there have the same viewpoint as you. But unless you have had these on your own ride and have had a bad exprience with them, and I'm going to assume that you don't and never will, I don't see how you can inform anyone on the subject. I am sharing my expierence with these and that is 65,000 miles strong, so far and counting and that is not theory but fact. Though beleive me, if something bad happens as a result of these rotors, I will definitely be posting about it since this forum is to help and inform others out there. I am sorry if you take any offense to this post, I don't mean any by it. Man, I hope I haven't put my foot in my mouth with this one but I probably have.

 

I have always wondered if the slotted and drilled rotors didn't eat up pads faster. Maybe not, but regardless, I put on some Wagner ThermoQuiet pads about 60,000 miles ago and they are not half gone yet. Great stopping, no noise and very little dust. I put them on the stock rotors without turning them and have had no problems.

Maybe if I were doing a lot of hard stopping that heated the rotors beyond normal usage, I might feel the need for slotted, I just don't see the need for normal driving.

 

That's cool, and glad to hear those are working out for you. My pads have 65,000 on them and are not even down to half either. I will have to admit I am supprised the rotors don't eat up the pads as that was a concern of mine when I made the switch, but they don't so I am 100% satisfied and happy with the results. I was going through pads every 20 to 25,000 miles (I am hard on my brakes and the truck is pretty heavy) so this has worked well for me.

 

I think you have a 4X4, so the extra weight might be a factor. Mine is a 4x2, so if it were heavier, I might feel the benefit of the slotted rotors.

 

Drilled/slotted aren't really worth it on a street vehicle, hell even on the track it's debatable. I do a lot of HDPE's and on the race forum most people suggest blanks over slotted/drilled. I've talked to a few guess that went back to blanks after slotted or cross drilled because they didn't last any longer than their blanks did. If your truck is stopping that much better with less fade it's because of the pad not the rotor. Rotors are a wear item so wouldn't it be better to replace a wear item with a cheaper one than more expensive?

Just invest in a good pad and you should be fine with Brembo blanks.

 

I would go with powerslot rotors. I’ve had them on a couple cars with Hawk pads and they make a good combination. A guy at work has an F350 dually and trailers a large horse trailer. He has powerslot rotors and he said braking is much better now and he doesn’t have anymore issues with warped rotors.

 

I AGREE, BUT, hold on for the moron quakes are about to start...!

 

My drilled-slotted rotors provide superior stopping power over the OEM rotors. Truck stops quicker and the rotors don't warp.

 

Sorry Jeremy, but aren't pads a wear item also? I would say pads are a wear item more than rotors. Should I get cheaper pads too? Actually rotors are NOT a wear item, they can be turned, pads can't. Your statement doesn't make much sense

 

No offense taken. Wilwood offers more racing brakes etc., but anyways, I may come across as having nothing good to say about them based on second hand experience. I just find it funny that those with them try to explain heat dissipation and material gas explusion to me because they go from stop light to stop light day in and day out. That's their justification for it, like tuner kids justifying having wings (needed item no less) for a street car. Whatever puts wind in your sails, don't let me stop you. Not that you do or have but others not even here have fed me "sailboat fuel" about these as well. I just like what I've got and almost fear straying because brake performance is fine, dust is all but zero and life on parts is good too.

Basically to sum it up, I just don't match the hype let's say to day to day practicality or how some have made them out to be the "be all and end all". That's just and always has been my opinion but I appreciate you not getting all bent out of shape. Hell, maybe one day I'll try them for curiosity sake.

 

It's all good, what you have works for you and that's what counts in the long run. Unfortunatly what I had was not working (warped rotors, pads wearing out every 20,000 miles due to my driving habits lol) and I have been pleasantly surprised with this set up so I'll stick with it, for now. I realize that these are not for everyone and I'm certainly not a salesman, just putting my experience with these out there to inform anyone who's curious. Still can't get over someone saying rotors are a wear item, that's almost like saying piston rings are a wear item. You sure wouldn't want to have to open up the engine all the time and replace them with something cheaper, unless you just have the money to throw around, hell throw some my way

 

I missed this post. Yeah it's a 4x4 with the heavyduty payload package and 5.4. Pretty big for a 150

 

I have 56,000 kms on my stock rotors and pads, and they're still like new. Way too much dusting though, so when the time comes I'll definitely change from OEM pads, but the rotors are fine. No pulsing at all, and that's pretty good for most vehicles I've owned and driven with that many miles on factory rotors.
I just did the Focus fronts brakes, pads and rotors, and I went with OEM rotors, because at 86,000 km's, the rotors were still awesome (not a hint of pulsing), if it wasn't for the pads wearing down to the metal

 

Let me rephrase....I would go with a blank type of rotor over a cross drilled or slotted. When I say get the cheaper rotor I am talking about getting an OEM replacement blank over the cross/slotted. I'm not saying go with a cheaper material than stock. I would go with Brembo or Powerslot blanks. And last time I checked rotors don't last forever so yes they would beconsidered a wear item. Typically if you warp them bad enough they can't be turned anyway. Cross drilled rotors are known to crack and slotted are known to eat pads. Neither of which are good for a street application.

I used to be a firm believer in cross & slotted rotors but after I started doing HDPE's for several years and talking to people at the events and reading a lot of forums on racing most people tend to agree that they are not worth it. You will still have people saying they are great but the majority of people who have tried them say otherwise.

Read this thread from one of the car clubs I belong to. People are replying with all kind of different cars on this very subject.

http://chinmotorsports.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=453

I just don't want this guy spending money on something that really isn't going to do anything.

Also, check this out. Lou Gigliotti has frequented my car club before and is a real race car driver who races in World Challenge & ALMS. Notice anything about his rotors? HHMM. They appear to be blanks don't they? If a full blown $300,000+ Corvette race car is using blanks do you really think a near stock F-150 is going to see huge advantages by switching to cross drilled or slotted rotors?




Here's more of his gallery. http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/thu...s.php?album=15


So if you want my answer again....No, I personally do not think cross drilled or slotted rotors are worth it on a Ford F-150.

 

Did you change the pads when you changed the rotors?