Quiet Pads - Motorcraft Vs. Others....
#1
Quiet Pads - Motorcraft Vs. Others....
Im going to replace my rear pads on my 01 Screw. Should I go with oem motorcraft pads, duralast, or raybestos, etc.... They are all right around 60 dollars for the better ones.
I hate noisy brakes and last time I replaced the front I got some pads from autozone and they made noise so I took them back and upgraded to the top of the line and they still made a little noise at first but now they are good(2 years later) And yes I do use Brake Quiet
I hate noisy brakes and last time I replaced the front I got some pads from autozone and they made noise so I took them back and upgraded to the top of the line and they still made a little noise at first but now they are good(2 years later) And yes I do use Brake Quiet
#4
I'd go Raybestos, that's the majority supplier of Carquest so I know, use and have had zero issues. I did get top line "gold" metallics before= junk, but Carquest "blue" series of metallic and ceramics are awesome. I don't think Motorcraft are that bad for pre-04 trucks, my stocks were normal but the Raybestos are lots better. Wagners also.
#5
#6
With regards to bonded versus riveted linings, there are design requirements that have to specifically whether a lining is bonded or riveted. Wagner products are inexpensive units manufactured overseas that are designed on to the "minimum" specs.
Napa Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM.
Recommendation: CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings. IIRR, I paid about $130 for my last set including shipping. They have a web site at www.ctbrakes.com, but I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application at 877-899-5024 or 704-481-8500. With regards to rotors, I run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated making them almost as hard as stainless steel. For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
I also highly recommend using 5.1 DOT (non-silicone) brake fluid. It possesses all the great performance qualities of 5.0 DOT (silicone) but without the negatives. The only issue is for those with custom paint jobs- 5.0 DOT (silicone) fluid will not harm the paint like “conventional” brake fluid will/can.
Napa Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM.
Recommendation: CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings. IIRR, I paid about $130 for my last set including shipping. They have a web site at www.ctbrakes.com, but I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application at 877-899-5024 or 704-481-8500. With regards to rotors, I run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated making them almost as hard as stainless steel. For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
I also highly recommend using 5.1 DOT (non-silicone) brake fluid. It possesses all the great performance qualities of 5.0 DOT (silicone) but without the negatives. The only issue is for those with custom paint jobs- 5.0 DOT (silicone) fluid will not harm the paint like “conventional” brake fluid will/can.
#7
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#8
#9
Im going to replace my rear pads on my 01 Screw. Should I go with oem motorcraft pads, duralast, or raybestos, etc.... They are all right around 60 dollars for the better ones.
I hate noisy brakes and last time I replaced the front I got some pads from autozone and they made noise so I took them back and upgraded to the top of the line and they still made a little noise at first but now they are good(2 years later) And yes I do use Brake Quiet
I hate noisy brakes and last time I replaced the front I got some pads from autozone and they made noise so I took them back and upgraded to the top of the line and they still made a little noise at first but now they are good(2 years later) And yes I do use Brake Quiet
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM.
Recommendation: CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings. IIRR, I paid about $130 for my last set including shipping. They have a web site at www.ctbrakes.com, but I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application at 877-899-5024 or 704-481-8500. With regards to rotors, I run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated making them almost as hard as stainless steel. For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
I also highly recommend using 5.1 DOT (non-silicone) brake fluid. It possesses all the great performance qualities of 5.0 DOT (silicone) but without the negatives. The only issue is for those with custom paint jobs- 5.0 DOT (silicone) fluid will not harm the paint like “conventional” brake fluid will/can.
#11
Um, ya, I'm with ya. Sounds like a sales pitch, even got a 800 number. For the fluid though, you'd basically have to flush and replace ALL, not just most of the existing DOT 3 fluid. I have DOT 5 in my other car because I started with a completely new set of everything that fluid would hit. In lieu of the OP's request of upgrading, he has done so. Anything usually is better than stock. I'm finding ceramics to be a bit better in stopping, dusting or lack of is incredible.
#12
Maybe I'm being oversensitive here. But accusing a guy of posting a "sales pitch" for suggesting a product he believes in?
#13
#14
I service one Excursion, three Expidtions and one Crown Vic. All are used for emergency service and I use nothing but Ford factory replacement brake componets.
They last longer, with aftermarket pads I was only getting 10k from a set.
With Motorcraft almost 30k. For the $$$ you are down time ahead.
They last longer, with aftermarket pads I was only getting 10k from a set.
With Motorcraft almost 30k. For the $$$ you are down time ahead.
#15
WHOA, better put the flame suit on. OK, poor choice of words but I was basically joking. Ya, I push for Carquest because I believe in them time and time again. You ask what has no dust, I tell you. I won't make things up based on "theory", but first hand and second hand from others that I plainly see myself. I'll agree on the over sensitive part, sorry beechkid, but I was kidding. I don't particularly agree with all what he said on the fluid, all I know is you can't mix 3 with 5 so a 100% flush needed, but since mxracer49 knows me so well, you should know me to agree 1000% about the rotors, no?
"For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made."- beechkid
And I will agree Motorcraft has good pads, I don't think they are for newer F-150's or Escapes though- dust.
"For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made."- beechkid
And I will agree Motorcraft has good pads, I don't think they are for newer F-150's or Escapes though- dust.