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Old 03-17-2009, 07:31 PM
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Brakes

Want to pick up some Wagner Thermoquiet pads. Its my understanding that these are good pads that create little dust...Getting tired of cleaning all the brake dust all the time from the stockers.
Want to get them put on before I get my wheels put on for the season.
25,000 miles on the truck.

How much should I expect to pay to have them installed? I dont need the rotors turned do I?

Thanks
 
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:03 AM
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You should expect to pay probably no more than 400 bux for parts and labor to do the fronts. These pads have been great for those who have them. If the pedal feels fine and the rotors look decent enough, no you don't NEED to turn them, it to me is a good idea. It's cheap and starting fresh is cool. They aren't actually hard to do if you are somewhat mechanically inclined or have buddy's who are. There is a degree of knowledge though.
 
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Old 03-19-2009, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4
They aren't actually hard to do if you are somewhat mechanically inclined or have buddy's who are. There is a degree of knowledge though.
This.


Why not do it yourself? I believe the ThermoQuiet pads are $80 a set. You could do it yourself for less than a 1/4 of a shop's price.
 
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:53 PM
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Got a quote for 65.00 for the front pads, and about 180.00 installed w pads included -(just fronts)
Advanced auto has them on sale for about 45.00 for the fronts.
How hard is it to do them yourself? What tools would I need?
 
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:21 AM
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No special tools at all, a 6" c-clamp is needed to compress the piston(s) into the caliper via the old pad. A couple 3/8 drive sockets and 1/2" drive in metric and some anti-seize and blue thread lock. Get a Chiltons manual and that ought to teach how.

Actually, those prices quoted aren't bad at all, might want to consider it if not comfortable doing it yourself.
 
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:23 AM
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Ok Thanks
 
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:39 AM
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Well picked up the pads (Just fronts) for around 46.00 with tax. Rebate is 15.00.
Just decided to have a mechanic do the install, they gave you a rebate for that to which was 10.00. So 25.00 in rebates.
Mechanic charged me 30.00 for the install.
So total pads/install came to 76.00
Total rebates 25.00
True Cost 51.00
Not to shabby I guess eh..

Now I just hope the pads live up to their reputation as a great brake and low on dust.

How many miles do I need to take it easy on them until they are seated (if thats the word) properly.
 
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Old 04-04-2009, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by FX4Screwdude
Well picked up the pads (Just fronts) for around 46.00 with tax. Rebate is 15.00.
Just decided to have a mechanic do the install, they gave you a rebate for that to which was 10.00. So 25.00 in rebates.
Mechanic charged me 30.00 for the install.
So total pads/install came to 76.00
Total rebates 25.00
True Cost 51.00
Not to shabby I guess eh..

Now I just hope the pads live up to their reputation as a great brake and low on dust.

How many miles do I need to take it easy on them until they are seated (if thats the word) properly.
You got a great deal. The installation was very reasonable. As far as seating goes, some do a hard stop, I just drive as I always do, never had an issue. Let us know how they turn out.
 
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:35 PM
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Recommendation: CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings. IIRR, I paid about $130 for my last set including shipping. They have a web site at www.ctbrakes.com, but I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application at 877-899-5024 or 704-481-8500. With regards to rotors, I run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated making them almost as hard as stainless steel. For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:44 PM
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No special tools at all, a 6" c-clamp is needed to compress the piston(s) into the caliper via the old pad. A couple 3/8 drive sockets and 1/2" drive in metric and some anti-seize and blue thread lock. Get a Chiltons manual and that ought to teach how.
 



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