Need some help diagnosing a brake problem
#1
Need some help diagnosing a brake problem
Hey everyone,
For the past few months I've had an intermittent brake light that would flicker, and randomly come on and off. Well this brake light is keeping me from passing Maryland state inspection. Recently it has come on and stay on.
When the truck originally went in for inspection the tech told me that the driver side caliper brake line was twisted, and most likely causing the problem. Well I just got done installing new rotors and pads, while doing this I untwisted the line and routed everything back to spec.... Yeap...That damn light is still on.
Is there anyway to read this code?
Any ideas what could be causing it?
E-brake, front, and rear brakes are all functioning perfectly.
Any hints, tips and advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Ps: is there any reason a tech would not install V-clips on the front brake pads? When I took the old pads off they were missing.
For the past few months I've had an intermittent brake light that would flicker, and randomly come on and off. Well this brake light is keeping me from passing Maryland state inspection. Recently it has come on and stay on.
When the truck originally went in for inspection the tech told me that the driver side caliper brake line was twisted, and most likely causing the problem. Well I just got done installing new rotors and pads, while doing this I untwisted the line and routed everything back to spec.... Yeap...That damn light is still on.
Is there anyway to read this code?
Any ideas what could be causing it?
E-brake, front, and rear brakes are all functioning perfectly.
Any hints, tips and advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Ps: is there any reason a tech would not install V-clips on the front brake pads? When I took the old pads off they were missing.
#2
#4
I know this is too obvious but did you check your brake fluid level? Also, if the twist for some odd reason was the cause you may have to clear the error code to get the light to go off. Have you done this? It can be done by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes.
However I agree that its probably a sensor going/gone bad. Not sure where the sensor location is, but will try to find it for you and will post asap.
However I agree that its probably a sensor going/gone bad. Not sure where the sensor location is, but will try to find it for you and will post asap.
#5
#6
Fluid level is good, brakes feel great, a little soft but nothing out of the ordinary.
The brake light can't make up it's damn mind. I was leaving work tonight and it was flickering completely randomly all the way home. Smooth roads, rough roads, wet, dry, it doesn't matter. Sometimes it comes on and stays on for a day, then it's gone for another day.
I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad/corroding ground in the ebrake sensor?
The brake light can't make up it's damn mind. I was leaving work tonight and it was flickering completely randomly all the way home. Smooth roads, rough roads, wet, dry, it doesn't matter. Sometimes it comes on and stays on for a day, then it's gone for another day.
I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad/corroding ground in the ebrake sensor?
#7
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#10
Alright I'll check em out and see if there's any corrosion or damage.
Does the computer log a code when the brake light goes on? I didn't think it worked like the CEL. When my truck went in for inspection I asked the tech if he pulled any codes for the brake light and he looked at me like he had never heard of that before
Does the computer log a code when the brake light goes on? I didn't think it worked like the CEL. When my truck went in for inspection I asked the tech if he pulled any codes for the brake light and he looked at me like he had never heard of that before
#13
I'm 99% sure that it won't be a wheel sensor... that would light your ABS light, not your Brake light.
First thing you should try doing is holding up on the e-brake pedal (maybe use a bungee cord) and see if that stops it... if it does, you can try adjusting the switch on the ebrake so its down a hair and making good contact to the e-brake pedal.
(but you said cruise control is working so its probably not the pedal)
If that doesn't work, I'd try replacing the FLI switch (Fluid Level Indicator) in the brake fluid reservoir. You said your fluid was plenty high, so maybe the reed switch in the FLI broke or the pins are corroded. You should be able to get a new switch from the dealer... just squeeze the two plastic tabs on the side opposite the connector and it will slide out of the reservoir. Insert the new one and hook up the wire connector.
Those two fixes are quick and cheap, so I'd start there if it were my truck!
There is also a slight chance that the float in the reservoir is bad... every once in awhile they will have a defect and get saturated with brake fluid. Then, even though the reservoir is full, the float is down in the fluid and will bounce when you hit bumps and activate the FLI. So if the new FLI switch doesn't work, try replacing the entire reservoir. (you can't replace the float... the reservoir halves are welded together)
good luck!
First thing you should try doing is holding up on the e-brake pedal (maybe use a bungee cord) and see if that stops it... if it does, you can try adjusting the switch on the ebrake so its down a hair and making good contact to the e-brake pedal.
(but you said cruise control is working so its probably not the pedal)
If that doesn't work, I'd try replacing the FLI switch (Fluid Level Indicator) in the brake fluid reservoir. You said your fluid was plenty high, so maybe the reed switch in the FLI broke or the pins are corroded. You should be able to get a new switch from the dealer... just squeeze the two plastic tabs on the side opposite the connector and it will slide out of the reservoir. Insert the new one and hook up the wire connector.
Those two fixes are quick and cheap, so I'd start there if it were my truck!
There is also a slight chance that the float in the reservoir is bad... every once in awhile they will have a defect and get saturated with brake fluid. Then, even though the reservoir is full, the float is down in the fluid and will bounce when you hit bumps and activate the FLI. So if the new FLI switch doesn't work, try replacing the entire reservoir. (you can't replace the float... the reservoir halves are welded together)
good luck!
#14
Says in the Manual that if the brake light comes on or a leak problem has been detected by the pressure differential valve causeing the valve piston to shift from it's centered position. This shift from it's centered position can happen anytime the hydraulic system has been opened up. This shift causes the brake warning light circuit to be completed and the light to glow. Once the valve is recentered the light will go out.