How to service brakes

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  #16  
Old 05-17-2010, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wreedKR
Should i have put lock tite on the slide pin bolts?
I never have...
 
  #17  
Old 05-17-2010, 02:54 PM
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Next question, if I change my pads before they get bad, will I ever have to change my rotors? How do I know when they are bad?
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:01 PM
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We just debated the rotor replacement issue in this thread. You'll know they're bad if they pulsate when stopping (likely warped) or if you can see visible channels or pits in the rotor surface. Likely won't happen if you use soft(ish) pads and replace promptly when needed, clean the rotor surface each time and bed in the new pads properly.
 

Last edited by ucfperspicere; 05-17-2010 at 03:04 PM.
  #19  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:02 PM
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Is the Wagner TQ considered a soft pad?
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:19 PM
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Depends on the material. Pretty much any semi-metallic is gonna' be soft(ish). Ceramic pads aren't as soft.
 
  #21  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:21 PM
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They are semi metallic.
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:24 PM
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They may be soft but I put 80,000 on my last set and they still had life left. Probably could have made 100,000 but I went ahead and changed them as I was there and in the mood.
 
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  #23  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
They may be soft but I put 80,000 on my last set and they still had life left. Probably could have made 100,000 but I went ahead and changed them as I was there and in the mood.
Thats good to hear, my factory Ford pads made it to 40k almost.
 
  #24  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:33 PM
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Semi-metallics are good. I mean "soft" in comparison to harsh ceramic materials. They'll help your rotors last longer. They will still feel firm to the brake pedal, but semi-metallics take more of the friction reaction, whereas ceramics put more of the friction on the rotor (thus eating them up more rapidly).

IMO you should be fine to replace the pads without turning rotors, as long as they aren't damaged and you do it before all the pad material runs out. Make sure to clean the rotor surface well with brake cleaner and a rag, and follow pad mfr.-recommended pad bed-in procedures.
 

Last edited by ucfperspicere; 05-17-2010 at 03:36 PM.
  #25  
Old 05-17-2010, 07:04 PM
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OK I dont know if this has something to do with the brake pad change but now when I come to a stop I feel a slight shudder/vibration. I dunno if this is the driveline or something related to the brake pad change.
 
  #26  
Old 05-18-2010, 02:42 PM
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Under only hard braking, only light braking or both? They might just need to mate together a little more. Usually the first 100-500 mi of new pads can be not quite baby smooth, in my experience, then they even out. Maybe this is the cost of not turning for a perfect new surface?
 
  #27  
Old 05-18-2010, 04:02 PM
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I have over 1000 miles now. It feels more like the driveline is still moving and has some force in it and the truck has stopped.
 
  #28  
Old 05-18-2010, 04:39 PM
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Hm, that sounds different. Maybe the rear ABS speed sensor (located in the differential housing) needs replacing?
 



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