My front left caliper has been seized for awhile, I discovered it when I changed the crap Motorcraft pads for Wagners. I heard that these OEM brakes suck anyways so I wasn't too mad. It isn't seized with compression against the rotor, its just in-active, but lately its starting to make a scrape sound on the rotor, and once in a while it feels lik its locking up on me and I need to accelerate to remain speed.Since my job is paying me better i'm going to replace the front left caliper with a new one since its long over due. I dont normally put things like this off but money has been very tight over winter and it still functioned well but braked slowly. Fixing time has come.

Dealership wants $157 for a new caliper.

TascaParts wants $95 they say, but when I add to cart it was $145 + $10 shipped, so for the price difference of $2.99 I might as well buy at the dealership and get it faster.

RockAuto, I could not find the 04 - 05 front Motorcraft Caliper Assy. on their page, which is a bummer because RockAuto is fantastic and I would prefer to pay them my money for a part than anyone else.

Any advice to steer me in the proper direction for a affordable new OEM caliper? I wanna get this done asap so any advice will be nice. part #s too for RockAuto if they do indeed have them. All I have seen is a different brand, non Motorcraft. So no thanks.

 

I don't think the original brake calipers are even "Ford" parts. I'm pretty sure they're made by Bosch, at least for my year. NAPA carries reman. Bosch calipers in stock, but I'm not sure about price.

You could also try buying a rebuild kit and do it yourself. I had to do this last week when I accidentally let my caliper slide all the way out while bleeding the brakes. :o It wasn't that difficult.

 

Dude Auto zone mine did the same crap last month If you bring the old ones there 59.00 bucks. you only have to bring the one part of brake So unbolt the part that holds in the pads and keep it to bolt to the new caliper bro .

 

I guess Autozone/Duralast reman. units are also going to be Bosch, too, but the bushings and other rebuilt parts will be from who-knows-where. As long as it's warrantied...

 

Well as long as I dont have two different looking front calipers. My 20" Monsters and red painted stock calipers show the shape and all real well and I want the stock style caliper to replace with. i'll re-look for Bosch. Bosch huh, Hah, no wonder they failed at 80k miles

 

If look is what you're worried about, I'm pretty sure any remanufactured unit will look just like the original. You have to return the core anyway, so if you have another way to get there, you could take the old caliper down to your closest parts store and confirm appearance before making the trade.

 

Guess so. Its not really looks, but I want the exact same OEM piece. Even though it failed yeah, I wont have the truck in 70k miles to do it over again anyways so i just wanna replace it and get it functional again.

I only have my truck so I cant run around showing people the left caliper. A new caliper assembly/refurbished will be ready to install and all correct? Wont need pistons and such? Thats what failed in mine but its completely fried now.

 

Yeah, a caliper assembly (either new or remanufactured) will be complete and ready to install. Just disconnect the banjo bolt (brake line) and caliper slide bolts from the old unit and hook up the new one. Then bleed the line; you should only need to bleed the corner you're replacing, but if the fluid in your truck is more than a few years old, go ahead and buy two or three quarts of new fluid (DOT 4, not DOT 5) and flush the whole system. Brakes are not the area to skimp and fluid is pretty cheap (under $20 to replace every drop). You'll need a helper for this (not a dirty job, so a wife or girlfriend will work fine as long as she can follow instructions). Speed bleeders ($10/axle) will make the work easier and faster, but they're not really necessary.

You really should replace the front brake pads at the same time and do a new brake pad bed-in procedure. If you just put new pads on you can probably reuse them, but use new Disc Quiet (or similar) and do a new bed-in anyway.

Good luck!

 

i had one of my fronts lock up as well. got a new one from napa,wasnt even a remanufactured one

 

Carefull when you get calipers and flex lines on the 04/5 I had a nightmare matching mine up. There was a change in november 05 but my 04 has 05 flex lines. I dont know if there was a tsb or what but it was a nightmare getting the right ones. My calipers were Cardone, the first on I got had a ford stamp on it and it didnt match up. Sliders were on the Caliper instead of the mpounting bracket. Going to order Russell braided lines so I dont have to worry about it again.

 

Thanks for the info.

Well this next coming week I have to buy one. I pushed it off again. Cant do this again. Napa didn't carry a OEM re-manufactured caliper assembly but they had one for $76 bucks that looked completely different. No thanks.

So anyone else know where to get an exact 2004 caliper from for a good deal before I hand over $158 to the dealership?

 

Go back to Rockauto.

This is what I just found. It does list the OE caliper along with the regular Motorcraft replacement.

MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC211RM
Retail; Front Left

$82.89 $50.00 $132.89
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC210RM
Retail; Front Right

$82.89 $50.00 $132.89
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC191RM {Unloaded #6L3Z2V553ACRM}
Rear Left

$82.89 $50.00 $132.89
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC190RM {Unloaded #6L3Z2V552ACRM}
Rear Right

$82.89 $50.00 $132.89
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC146RM {Unloaded - Pads Not Included; remanufactured #CX979E, XL3Z2V120CARM}
Rear Disc brakes; Front Right

$75.79 $60.00 $135.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCF113
OE Design; Front Right

$120.79 $50.00 $170.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCF114
OE Design; Front Left
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

$131.99 $50.00 $181.99
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCLF109
OE Design; w/ Narrow Frame Wheelbase; Rear Right
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

$220.99 $50.00 $270.99
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCLF110
OE Design; w/ Narrow Frame Wheelbase; Rear Left
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

$245.99 $50.00 $295.99

 

Thanks! I looked it up and its sitting at $10 more on the price and total. What is this Core Price and why does it jack it the hell up like that? $130 is reasonable but $180??

 

Copied from their FAQ site.

Q: What does the "core" column mean?
A: A core is the old part you are replacing. When you buy a remanufactured part, manufacturers need the core so they can rebuild it and add it to their inventory. The core charge is like a deposit on a soda bottle--you pay it when you place the order, but it's refunded if you send back your old part. For more information about cores, please click here.

And from the "click here" link

Cores

Some of the parts we sell are remanufactured. These parts are identified in our catalog as "remanufactured" or "reman."
For parts like alternators and master cylinders, the basic body (a complex and expensive metal casting) usually is very durable. But components, like bushings and seals, can wear out and cause the part to fail. Replacing just the worn components can be very cost-effective, helps protect the environment, and produces very reliable results. (Visit Cardone Industries, our primary supplier of remanufactured parts, for more information about remanufacturing.)
Remanufactured parts usually have a core charge. The core charge is a deposit that the manufacturer charges us, and which we pass on to you, to encourage the return of old parts to be remanufactured. You pay the core charge when you place your order. If you return the old part to us, we refund the core charge.
To receive credit, cores (except for complete engines and transmissions) must be returned within six months of the date your order was placed. Complete engine and transmission cores must be returned within two weeks from the date your order is delivered.
Cores must be complete, rebuildable, fit the same vehicle application and be returned in the box the remanufactured part came in. This means the part you send back needs to have whatever components (like pulleys) came on the remanufactured part. The box helps identify the part and proves to the manufacturer that the core replaces one of their products. Obviously, the core won't be working well (or you wouldn't have replaced it) but it can't be smashed, rusted solid, or otherwise unusable. (We rarely reject a core. If the part came off a running vehicle and just wore out--no problem. But please don't send a part that's been soaking in junkyard mud for 5 years and expect to receive core credit!)
Shipping charges on cores aren't refundable. (Before sending back a core, you'll need to decide if the core deposit is worth the shipping cost.) As with any return, before returning a core you must obtain and follow return instructions from our Order Status page or via email.

I doubt being painted is an issue, but you may want to check on that first.


Check with your dealer, that 157 is likely a reman'd caliper where you also pay a core charge.

 

So the Core pricing is basically a refund? Makes sense. Well, A caliper that is fried with cracked pistons, would that quality? IMO it might as well be melted down to be made of something else.

Also in that list of caliper related part #s, the very first one ( ## BRC211RM ) Is that the caliper only? No brackets and stuff? The caliper is all I need so I would like to keep it that way. The dealerships price for the caliper is the $157 I posted.