Brakes and rotors on 2004 Supercrew XLT
#1
Brakes and rotors on 2004 Supercrew XLT
Hello,
I have 67000 miles on my truck and just yesterday heard that metal to metal noise that happens when you don't change your brake pads on time. Anyway, I brought the truck to my mechanic and he is saying that every time he does a brake job, he changes the rotors regardless on the condition. I just would like to know, is this common practice? The rotors look fine but in this instance I probably let the pads worn too far and the rotors may have been damaged anyway!
Thanks,
Leos98
I have 67000 miles on my truck and just yesterday heard that metal to metal noise that happens when you don't change your brake pads on time. Anyway, I brought the truck to my mechanic and he is saying that every time he does a brake job, he changes the rotors regardless on the condition. I just would like to know, is this common practice? The rotors look fine but in this instance I probably let the pads worn too far and the rotors may have been damaged anyway!
Thanks,
Leos98
#2
No, that's not common practice. Not even good preventative maintenance. He's the type of guy that gives mechanics a bad name. If you're not just looking for an excuse to spend money and want new rotors for some reason, there is absolutely not a single darn thing wrong with turning rotors (as long as there's not a specific reason to turn them).
#3
#5
I'd find a new mechanic if he did this without your approval. Might even refuse to pay. Definitely let him know about your disapproval/disappointment before you leave. If he wants your continued business he may at least knock off the parts or labor, if not both.
I had bought my last 3 tire sets at the same shop. I brought it in a while back because a tire picked up a screw, and I went to lunch while they were supposed to repair it. When I returned to the shop I find out they'd put a brand new tire on because it couldn't be repaired, they "couldn't reach me", and they wanted to have it "ready to drive away" before I got back. What really pissed me off is that the rest of the set only had about 3-5k mi left on them and I was planning to go with different tires when I replaced.
So they made me pay $150 for a tire I didn't want or $30 and an hour wait to have them put the old, unrepaired tire back on. I paid for that tire, but I will never again buy another tire there. (FWIW it was a Discount Tire, but I'm sure this shop's service was not necessarily indicative of every Discount Tire.)
I had bought my last 3 tire sets at the same shop. I brought it in a while back because a tire picked up a screw, and I went to lunch while they were supposed to repair it. When I returned to the shop I find out they'd put a brand new tire on because it couldn't be repaired, they "couldn't reach me", and they wanted to have it "ready to drive away" before I got back. What really pissed me off is that the rest of the set only had about 3-5k mi left on them and I was planning to go with different tires when I replaced.
So they made me pay $150 for a tire I didn't want or $30 and an hour wait to have them put the old, unrepaired tire back on. I paid for that tire, but I will never again buy another tire there. (FWIW it was a Discount Tire, but I'm sure this shop's service was not necessarily indicative of every Discount Tire.)
Last edited by ucfperspicere; 05-14-2010 at 03:08 PM.
#6
#7
rotors should be changed when they are below spec. changing them before that is just a waste of money. i always cut my rotors if i am not changing them so that the pads have a nice new surface to mate to.
if you went metal to metal, it is likely that the backing plates on the pads ground into the rotors making them unusable. when someone comes in that has gone metal to metal, i always replace the rotors.
if you went metal to metal, it is likely that the backing plates on the pads ground into the rotors making them unusable. when someone comes in that has gone metal to metal, i always replace the rotors.
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#8
Must respectfully disagree with some of the other post. Like sfam198 said, you should always turn the rotors with new pads. It's like peanut butter and jelly...just one of those things you do. It give the new pads a flat, clean, surface to bed to and they wear in together as a set. When you install new pads on old rotors, it reduces braking effectiveness. There's always grooves and channels cut in rotors after 10's of thousands of miles. When you install new pads over that, the pad surface is mating to the tops of those grooves, reducing the mating surface area of the brakes, until some day down the road when those grooves and channels cut into the new pads. Is it dangerous? No. Would I do it?? Nope. Always turn your rotors to clean them up with new pads.
#9
Must respectfully disagree with some of the other post. Like sfam198 said, you should always turn the rotors with new pads. It's like peanut butter and jelly...just one of those things you do. It give the new pads a flat, clean, surface to bed to and they wear in together as a set. When you install new pads on old rotors, it reduces braking effectiveness. There's always grooves and channels cut in rotors after 10's of thousands of miles. When you install new pads over that, the pad surface is mating to the tops of those grooves, reducing the mating surface area of the brakes, until some day down the road when those grooves and channels cut into the new pads. Is it dangerous? No. Would I do it?? Nope. Always turn your rotors to clean them up with new pads.
__________________
Jim
Jim
#10
I'm with Bluejay here. I'm now on the third set of front pads with my PowerSlot rotors. I've never turned them, and I still have beautiful, strong, even stops. Backs are developing a hop, but I need to figure out if that might be the rear speed sensor in the diff. housing.
At least we all agree that it's definitely not necessary to put on new rotors every time, unless they are damaged or warped.
Galaxy, out of curiosity: If the rotors could not be turned and seemed to be in good shape, would you buy new rotors or install new pads on the un-turned ones?
At least we all agree that it's definitely not necessary to put on new rotors every time, unless they are damaged or warped.
Galaxy, out of curiosity: If the rotors could not be turned and seemed to be in good shape, would you buy new rotors or install new pads on the un-turned ones?
#13
i install 2-3 sets of brakes a day. i get people coming in every single day that have had their car/truck "pad slapped" somewhere else. their most common complaint is noise. sometimes it's worse. the point is, if someone is paying me to do the job, i'm going to do it right. this increases my customers' satisfaction with my work and decreases the amount of come backs i get.
rotors that are under specced get replaced, or i do not perform the work. if someone wants to put brakes on their car/truck that is, in my opinion (and many others in the industry), unsafe...let another shop do it. i've had a few people come in the shop and it was obvious they just kept pad slapping for hundreds of thousands of miles. the wheels come off and there is literally no rotor left. just the vent fins that are inside the face of the rotor. i find it amusing that some of the same people that preach using motorcraft spark plugs and motor oil on this site religously (because that's what the manufacturer specs) are the same ones that are ignoring the manufacturer brake specs.
what you do with your own truck is your business, but like i said when people are paying me for my services, i'm doing the job the way it's supposed to be done no questions. and of course i'm going to do it the same way on my own truck.
rotors that are under specced get replaced, or i do not perform the work. if someone wants to put brakes on their car/truck that is, in my opinion (and many others in the industry), unsafe...let another shop do it. i've had a few people come in the shop and it was obvious they just kept pad slapping for hundreds of thousands of miles. the wheels come off and there is literally no rotor left. just the vent fins that are inside the face of the rotor. i find it amusing that some of the same people that preach using motorcraft spark plugs and motor oil on this site religously (because that's what the manufacturer specs) are the same ones that are ignoring the manufacturer brake specs.
what you do with your own truck is your business, but like i said when people are paying me for my services, i'm doing the job the way it's supposed to be done no questions. and of course i'm going to do it the same way on my own truck.
#14
i install 2-3 sets of brakes a day. i get people coming in every single day that have had their car/truck "pad slapped" somewhere else. their most common complaint is noise. sometimes it's worse. the point is, if someone is paying me to do the job, i'm going to do it right. this increases my customers' satisfaction with my work and decreases the amount of come backs i get.
rotors that are under specced get replaced, or i do not perform the work. if someone wants to put brakes on their car/truck that is, in my opinion (and many others in the industry), unsafe...let another shop do it. i've had a few people come in the shop and it was obvious they just kept pad slapping for hundreds of thousands of miles. the wheels come off and there is literally no rotor left. just the vent fins that are inside the face of the rotor. i find it amusing that some of the same people that preach using motorcraft spark plugs and motor oil on this site religously (because that's what the manufacturer specs) are the same ones that are ignoring the manufacturer brake specs.
what you do with your own truck is your business, but like i said when people are paying me for my services, i'm doing the job the way it's supposed to be done no questions. and of course i'm going to do it the same way on my own truck.
rotors that are under specced get replaced, or i do not perform the work. if someone wants to put brakes on their car/truck that is, in my opinion (and many others in the industry), unsafe...let another shop do it. i've had a few people come in the shop and it was obvious they just kept pad slapping for hundreds of thousands of miles. the wheels come off and there is literally no rotor left. just the vent fins that are inside the face of the rotor. i find it amusing that some of the same people that preach using motorcraft spark plugs and motor oil on this site religously (because that's what the manufacturer specs) are the same ones that are ignoring the manufacturer brake specs.
what you do with your own truck is your business, but like i said when people are paying me for my services, i'm doing the job the way it's supposed to be done no questions. and of course i'm going to do it the same way on my own truck.
__________________
Jim
Jim