This is my first post on this forum; hope it's as active, and trust the folks here are as helpful as those on the Honda Shadow discusion forum I participate in a lot.

Last weekend I drove my friend's 1992 F-150XLT down some mountain roads; as I would lightly press the brake pedal a shuddering vibration could be felt through the entire truck. I told him my guess as to the cause was a rotor that needed to be turned and pads that needed to be replaced. I offered to do the job for him and that day is tomorrow. I need to get the job done in a day as we have a 3 day mt. camping trip with 3 other friends planned Wed thru Fri. Now, I've probably done a front brake job a half dozen times on various other vehicles, and nothing has ever gone wrong, but I hoped people here could point me to a down loadable repair manual and/or tell me if there is anything that is not straight forward about the job. Are there any special tools that I might not already have in my basic tool box? Would be so appreciative for some advice, Jon

 

If it's like my 03 2WD (if it is 2WD) the rotor/hub is one assembly. Count on servicing the wheel bearings and new grease seals too.

Check on the availability of rotors before you take it apart, if it is the 7700 series (heavy duty) it might have the 7 lug bolts and harder to find.

I've heard the rotors have to be turned on the truck but I've never messed with that. Might want to double check on that one though.

Other than that pretty much S.O.P. front brakes.

If it's rear disc you have to loosen the "E" brake adjustment to get the rotors off.

Good luck.

 

JGGER: Thank you for your response. I thought the designation "XLT" in my original post implied 4wd; I guess I shouldn't have assumed that. It is also an extended/crew cab if that helps. I've never messed with a hub and rotor assembly; the auto parts store couldn't help me figure out in advance if I've got a seperate rotor or a hub and rotor assembly. If it is a hub and rotor assembly does that present any special difficultied in removal or servicing? You mentioned a grease seal; I can't picture that. Will you explain; or am I getting into territory where you would frustrate and say take the darn thing to a real mechanic? I'm just a teacher trying to help a fellow teacher friend out. Can you or anyone else steer me to a downloadable manual? Thanks, Jon

 

Don't know on the 4WD if it is 2 piece hub/rotor, I think the older ones are separate. You could just pull one wheel and see.

The grease seal was for the combination hub/rotor on the 2WD, I made an assumption-we know where thar leads.

Now you got me scared......spelling,grammar,punctuation! ha ha

 

The 4x4 rotors will be separate from the hub. If I remember correctly, the calipers from that era may have a pair of "pins" that hold them on instead of bolts. If this is the case it will be obvious. Just punch them through with a hammer and screwdriver.

 

Thank you both, and please don't fear JGGR; tell you what, I'll rurposely pepper the rest of this with my own mistakes (that'll act as cover for my inadverdent mistakes). Perhaps a couple more things though, when I spoke with the guy at the parts store he cautioned me "not to release the calipers too much." Now, I'm used to taking the allen bolts out, the calipers come loose, and I suspend them w/a wire coathanger or something. Do you have some better idea than I what he meant by "don't release the calipers too much?" And yes, I did catch Norseman's thought that there might be pins rather than bolts. Can I expect the pads to be held in the calipers with some sort of simple clips; can I expect any problems compressing the pistons enough that the new pads are far enough apart to get back over the calipers? I suppose I'll have to bleed at least the front brakes--right? Thanks again, Jon

PS: No one knows of a downloadable manual out there?

 

May have meant compressing them too far, IDK.

only if you open the bleeder or disconnect a line.

Did you check the DIY's I think there is a few articles for what you are doing. I think there is a 24 hour (time limit) PDF at Helms-you can down load a bunch then save it. I don't remember the web site but you should be able to google.

Good luck.

 

Thank ya'll, I feel forearmed; if I run into problems tomorrow I trust I can find an answer here. I expect it will go well though. Jon

 

Well, I got started this morning, and right off ran into stuff I've never seen/didn't expect. The hub assembly comes off with the rotor and requires a special 4 point socket to remove a nut under the hub cover; none of the auto parts stores with tool loan programs have that socket to loan of course. Add $24 to the job. I am going to have to remove grease seals to remove the hub assembly from the rotor +$12 for new seals. Are the seals going to present problems in trying to remove/reinstall them.

Would someone tell me the proper way to torque, or tighten and then back off, the nut that holds the whole hub assembly/rotor on as I'm putting the whole thing back together? And, is there an alternative to buying that special 4 point socket?Thanks, Jon

 

Sorry for the confusion. I even looked on the napa website to confirm the rotors are "pop offs."

 

Well, I got beat. Pulled the hub assembly cap off expecting to find a spindle nut to remove whereupon the whole rotor/assembly would pull off. Under that cap though was my nightmare of automatic hub locking inticacy. Called my friend and said a man's got to know his limits, buttoned everything back up, and took it back to him. Thanks for trying to help. Jon

 

Dang Jon! We tried.

 

You did well; I'm afraid if I'd dug into that hub this thread would have gone on and on. Jon

 

I had an 89 and they are not that difficult. Most older 4x4 setups are similar as they use the dana 44 type assemblies. Here are a few diagrams and some reading if you decide to take another stab at it.

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1992-f...-vt305205.html