painting aluminum rims with clear coat.
#1
10-01-2010, 02:45 PM
painting aluminum rims with clear coat.
I have a set of center line rims that are about 14 years old and the finish is way past gone. I have already refinished them twice in the past 4 years, but it seams like it only takes a month or so for the finish to start getting rough.
Well, last night at the parts store I saw a kit to tint your chrome wheels to make them look like black chrome. I have all of my own painting equipment, if I refinished my wheels again to a mirror finish, then used a high temp clear coat with a touch of high temp black added to it, would this give the same results?
Any input on this? gonna try it this week end. worse come to worse I'll just sand the wheels against and refinish it to the normal finish.
Well, last night at the parts store I saw a kit to tint your chrome wheels to make them look like black chrome. I have all of my own painting equipment, if I refinished my wheels again to a mirror finish, then used a high temp clear coat with a touch of high temp black added to it, would this give the same results?
Any input on this? gonna try it this week end. worse come to worse I'll just sand the wheels against and refinish it to the normal finish.
#3
10-01-2010, 08:14 PM
#4
10-01-2010, 08:31 PM
i dont know ive never used the stuff. here is a post about it in another forum.
I finally paid the price for a Zoop Seal kit and the results are good BUT, I learned a few things they don't tell you in the instructions. First the part must be polished to the shine that will be the final appearance. Zoop Seal doesn't shine the part, it just seals the shine that you start out with. In the kit is a cleaning solution which you mix with water, spray on, and then rinse off with distilled water, probably should apply twice, the part must be squeaky clean. The sealer is a two part, A & B that is mixed and allowed to sit for the chemical reaction to take place. They say, 3 Hrs, I say longer, six or 8 Hrs. Here is the tricky part, the sealer must be applied in a very thin coat going in one direction. If you have ever tried to apply lacquer with a brush, your first pass with the brush goes on OK, but before your second pass, the first has already flashed off and your brush just sticks resulting in an ugly, unsmooth mess. Same thing here, if you keep going over the same spot it will be too thick and you will need to re-polish the piece with billet polish and start over. Squeeze the sealer from your applicator cloth until it's barely wet, and work quickly in one direction to cover the piece with a thin film. In the instructions they say a max of 24 hours for the sealer to fully cure, I say 48 hours, or MORE. Here's how to tell if it fully cured. If a light brush with the tip of your finger leaves any sign of a smear, it's not fully cured. It should look and feel like fully dry paint and leave no marks from your finger tip. The third step in the process they call ,Final Seal, which goes on like ordinary polish and appears to remove any sign of surface film leaving the pores of the metal sealed. Before using the Final Seal the part will look slightly hazy, but when you start polishing with the Final Seal, any appearance of any film on the surface on the metal disappears and should have it's original fresh polished appearance. If the part appears cloudy, or if your cloth with the Final Seal doesn't work smoothly as your applying it, then that means the sealer was not fully cured and you must re-polish the piece and start over. After several phone call to Zoop Seal, re-polishing parts, etc. Long cure time is the key. It may be the humidity down here, I don't know, but when I finally figured out that FULLY CURED is the key, the product was relatively easy to use and I am very satisfied with the final results. The key is FULLY CURED and thin coat. The Zoop Seal is invisible when properly applied. These were all engine parts which I removed to apply the Zoop Seal, but I will seal my wheels with the tires mounted, on the car. Now if this stuff will last for three years, I'll be a happy camper.
I finally paid the price for a Zoop Seal kit and the results are good BUT, I learned a few things they don't tell you in the instructions. First the part must be polished to the shine that will be the final appearance. Zoop Seal doesn't shine the part, it just seals the shine that you start out with. In the kit is a cleaning solution which you mix with water, spray on, and then rinse off with distilled water, probably should apply twice, the part must be squeaky clean. The sealer is a two part, A & B that is mixed and allowed to sit for the chemical reaction to take place. They say, 3 Hrs, I say longer, six or 8 Hrs. Here is the tricky part, the sealer must be applied in a very thin coat going in one direction. If you have ever tried to apply lacquer with a brush, your first pass with the brush goes on OK, but before your second pass, the first has already flashed off and your brush just sticks resulting in an ugly, unsmooth mess. Same thing here, if you keep going over the same spot it will be too thick and you will need to re-polish the piece with billet polish and start over. Squeeze the sealer from your applicator cloth until it's barely wet, and work quickly in one direction to cover the piece with a thin film. In the instructions they say a max of 24 hours for the sealer to fully cure, I say 48 hours, or MORE. Here's how to tell if it fully cured. If a light brush with the tip of your finger leaves any sign of a smear, it's not fully cured. It should look and feel like fully dry paint and leave no marks from your finger tip. The third step in the process they call ,Final Seal, which goes on like ordinary polish and appears to remove any sign of surface film leaving the pores of the metal sealed. Before using the Final Seal the part will look slightly hazy, but when you start polishing with the Final Seal, any appearance of any film on the surface on the metal disappears and should have it's original fresh polished appearance. If the part appears cloudy, or if your cloth with the Final Seal doesn't work smoothly as your applying it, then that means the sealer was not fully cured and you must re-polish the piece and start over. After several phone call to Zoop Seal, re-polishing parts, etc. Long cure time is the key. It may be the humidity down here, I don't know, but when I finally figured out that FULLY CURED is the key, the product was relatively easy to use and I am very satisfied with the final results. The key is FULLY CURED and thin coat. The Zoop Seal is invisible when properly applied. These were all engine parts which I removed to apply the Zoop Seal, but I will seal my wheels with the tires mounted, on the car. Now if this stuff will last for three years, I'll be a happy camper.
#5
10-02-2010, 02:32 PM
#7
10-02-2010, 02:50 PM
i dont know ive never used the stuff. here is a post about it in another forum.
I finally paid the price for a Zoop Seal kit and the results are good BUT, I learned a few things they don't tell you in the instructions. First the part must be polished to the shine that will be the final appearance. Zoop Seal doesn't shine the part, it just seals the shine that you start out with. In the kit is a cleaning solution which you mix with water, spray on, and then rinse off with distilled water, probably should apply twice, the part must be squeaky clean. The sealer is a two part, A & B that is mixed and allowed to sit for the chemical reaction to take place. They say, 3 Hrs, I say longer, six or 8 Hrs. Here is the tricky part, the sealer must be applied in a very thin coat going in one direction. If you have ever tried to apply lacquer with a brush, your first pass with the brush goes on OK, but before your second pass, the first has already flashed off and your brush just sticks resulting in an ugly, unsmooth mess. Same thing here, if you keep going over the same spot it will be too thick and you will need to re-polish the piece with billet polish and start over. Squeeze the sealer from your applicator cloth until it's barely wet, and work quickly in one direction to cover the piece with a thin film. In the instructions they say a max of 24 hours for the sealer to fully cure, I say 48 hours, or MORE. Here's how to tell if it fully cured. If a light brush with the tip of your finger leaves any sign of a smear, it's not fully cured. It should look and feel like fully dry paint and leave no marks from your finger tip. The third step in the process they call ,Final Seal, which goes on like ordinary polish and appears to remove any sign of surface film leaving the pores of the metal sealed. Before using the Final Seal the part will look slightly hazy, but when you start polishing with the Final Seal, any appearance of any film on the surface on the metal disappears and should have it's original fresh polished appearance. If the part appears cloudy, or if your cloth with the Final Seal doesn't work smoothly as your applying it, then that means the sealer was not fully cured and you must re-polish the piece and start over. After several phone call to Zoop Seal, re-polishing parts, etc. Long cure time is the key. It may be the humidity down here, I don't know, but when I finally figured out that FULLY CURED is the key, the product was relatively easy to use and I am very satisfied with the final results. The key is FULLY CURED and thin coat. The Zoop Seal is invisible when properly applied. These were all engine parts which I removed to apply the Zoop Seal, but I will seal my wheels with the tires mounted, on the car. Now if this stuff will last for three years, I'll be a happy camper.
I finally paid the price for a Zoop Seal kit and the results are good BUT, I learned a few things they don't tell you in the instructions. First the part must be polished to the shine that will be the final appearance. Zoop Seal doesn't shine the part, it just seals the shine that you start out with. In the kit is a cleaning solution which you mix with water, spray on, and then rinse off with distilled water, probably should apply twice, the part must be squeaky clean. The sealer is a two part, A & B that is mixed and allowed to sit for the chemical reaction to take place. They say, 3 Hrs, I say longer, six or 8 Hrs. Here is the tricky part, the sealer must be applied in a very thin coat going in one direction. If you have ever tried to apply lacquer with a brush, your first pass with the brush goes on OK, but before your second pass, the first has already flashed off and your brush just sticks resulting in an ugly, unsmooth mess. Same thing here, if you keep going over the same spot it will be too thick and you will need to re-polish the piece with billet polish and start over. Squeeze the sealer from your applicator cloth until it's barely wet, and work quickly in one direction to cover the piece with a thin film. In the instructions they say a max of 24 hours for the sealer to fully cure, I say 48 hours, or MORE. Here's how to tell if it fully cured. If a light brush with the tip of your finger leaves any sign of a smear, it's not fully cured. It should look and feel like fully dry paint and leave no marks from your finger tip. The third step in the process they call ,Final Seal, which goes on like ordinary polish and appears to remove any sign of surface film leaving the pores of the metal sealed. Before using the Final Seal the part will look slightly hazy, but when you start polishing with the Final Seal, any appearance of any film on the surface on the metal disappears and should have it's original fresh polished appearance. If the part appears cloudy, or if your cloth with the Final Seal doesn't work smoothly as your applying it, then that means the sealer was not fully cured and you must re-polish the piece and start over. After several phone call to Zoop Seal, re-polishing parts, etc. Long cure time is the key. It may be the humidity down here, I don't know, but when I finally figured out that FULLY CURED is the key, the product was relatively easy to use and I am very satisfied with the final results. The key is FULLY CURED and thin coat. The Zoop Seal is invisible when properly applied. These were all engine parts which I removed to apply the Zoop Seal, but I will seal my wheels with the tires mounted, on the car. Now if this stuff will last for three years, I'll be a happy camper.
So I purchased new factory aluminum's from ebay. Two from one seller and two from another. Well two out of the four is cracking up, -the clear coat is spider webbing and looks like hell. -
The rim on the right -
Here's another pic -
Why did it do this, it wasn't like that when I purchased them ? Yea just two from one seller did this, the others are fine.
So, I'm going to strip and re-clear the rims while my primer is setting on the truck.
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